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Old 10-14-2016, 04:30 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasrc View Post
Heat is the enemy....
This is not true, heat reduces the Internal Resistance within the Lipo giving it more punch
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:40 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
This is not true, heat reduces the Internal Resistance within the Lipo giving it more punch
Also causing it to puff

Warm is fine but Hot is bad....

Lipos getting warm is a sign its straining the lipo to generate the current thats being pulled. You probably need a higher C rating or lower KV motor.
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:44 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
This is not true, heat reduces the Internal Resistance within the Lipo giving it more punch
That doesn't necessarily mean it's good for them.
A top fuel dragster makes 8,000 horsepower and runs 0-300 mph in 3 seconds running on nitro-methane... BUT they have to be rebuilt after each 4-second pass down the quarter mile (which is less than 1,000 revolutions of the motor.) Everything they put into them makes them haul ass, but it destroys the motor in the process.
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Old 10-14-2016, 06:12 PM   #34
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For stock if your in it to win it..... you want your lipos warm

Last edited by dawgmeat; 10-15-2016 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 10-14-2016, 08:27 PM   #35
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Warm, not hot. Unless you're running in cold weather the battery will be warm enough to perform well simply by being at ambient temperature.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:26 PM   #36
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Pick up some Vant Lipos. You won't regret it. I run dual 1s Vants in my 4w: Caster Rapture SCT thus heavy and powering 4 pole 550. No issues. I have been using Vants for 4 years, thus their, 1s packs in series, saddles, brick, shorties, sticks with all still looking and working excellent. The price is amazingly cheap for the insane qaulity, performance, and a killer warrantee.
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:26 AM   #37
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I think it has more to do with the charger than many people realise.

Since moving to iCharger, I have had no swollen lipos. I get them warm charging at 30A for stock but they stay cool at lower charge rates in mod.

I have also seen brand new lipos swollen from being sat in the boot of a car on a warm sunny day.
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:09 PM   #38
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Contact your favorite LiPo manufacturer. They will tell you that overdischarging a LiPo is a killer.
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:50 PM   #39
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Honestly it clearly depends on multiple factors:
- 45% is coming from the charger
- 45% is coming from the electronics in the car and the usage
- 10% is coming from the battery

I'm not pretenting I know everything but I let you some arguments on the different points above...

The charger is really making a huge difference here. The more we use LiPO, the more we discover about their chemistry, balancing, heating, cooling, discharging, all these notions have changed about liPOs during the last 2 years. So you need a decent charger, but you also need a recent charger! Believe me when I tell you that the first Team Orion LiPO chargers were doing more harm than good to batteries. They were lucky they were using Kokam batteries in these days... From my experience (and I've not tested all the chargers) the iCharger are good for sure. I owned Orion at first (I finish by charging without balancing because of their crappy algorithm), then a iCharger 206B (once calibrated, it was perfect), then I went for a double charger, Elangear RX2 (quite good in SMT mode, but bad at discharging... ) then Muchmore Double Accel (quite the same as the Elangear) and finally I bought a iCharger 306DUO with a proper power supply (Wow is just the word). Everything is perfect in this charger but two things... First, it looks like a kid's toy then programming the profiles could have been easier if encoded in xml...

What about the car. That's quite easy when you are racing. You have to follow rules about batteries, motors, ESC, etc. But when you are bashing you have to keep your electronics consistent. Don't run a 45C battery with a 9600KV..., don't put a 4-pole motor in 3s in a touring car... I think you understand what I mean huh...

The rest is obviously coming from the battery itself. All the batteries are probably coming from China. The only price difference you are paying when you buy Orca or Orion or LRP is probably the budget for Quality assurance. There is no miracle here, the more you pay, the more you have chances to have a good battery with high performance and good life... Good batteries are sleeping in Turnigy stocks but maybe one or two for ten...

Last advise for me: take the time to learn a little bit about the chemistry in the LiPO. It's always better...
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