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Old 09-27-2016, 09:22 PM   #46
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I have 2k AE in it right now, I like it but I can feel the diff snap a little coming out of corners under hard acceleration. Highly recommend switching out the 2 degree hubs for 0 degree hubs and adding toe at the RR block.
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:59 AM   #47
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I'm not familiar with diff snap? Would a slightly thicker diff oil avoid that?
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:39 AM   #48
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I'm not familiar with diff snap? Would a slightly thicker diff oil avoid that?
Thicker oil would fix that. Its when you are coming out of the turn and the lightweight oil allows the car to freely rotate until you get on the throttle to "lock" the diff up under acceleration. Watching the car you can see it snap back into the direction the front wheels are pointed.
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Old 09-28-2016, 12:36 PM   #49
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Basically the diff is "diff-ing" too much.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:28 AM   #50
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Hey guys whats your thoughts on sakura ultimate 14 v sakura advanced 2016 is it worth the change
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:48 PM   #51
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Got my car today and have been building it this afternoon.

I bought the same TA 48p spur gear (#3924) but I couldn't get it to work with the adapters. I couldn't get more than one hole to "pop in" to the spur and seat properly and didn't want to force anything so i've still got the stock spur in mine which sucks because I bought new 48p pinons that i can't use. Was there some trick to getting the adapter plates to fit on the Team Associated Spur?

I accidentally bent an e-clip on the shock shaft installation and without a spare on hand it's brought me to a screeching halt. Other than that it went together really smooth and the car seems really nice. All the tolerances are super tight and smooth. Can't really report back on anything else so far.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:27 PM   #52
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The 66T spur works. It took a little effort, but it worked.

Sorry to hear about the e-clip. Hopefully you rectify that soon.

I ran my car at the first indoor club race of the season @ Overgear Racing today: 17.5 Stock and 21.5 Scale Spec. Cars handled very well, minus the following:

In my first Scale Spec heat, I was catching the leader and then my car started handling funny. Turns out that the pins in the rear CVD's came loose. I tightended them up after the qualifier, and all was good. I clipped a corner in my 2nd stock heat and the lightweight outdrive for the spool broke. I was a little disappointed, as I didn't feel that it hit that hard. A buddy of mine who runs TRF 417/418 had extra steel outdrives. They are a lot more beefy and they are a direct fit. Finished well enough to make middle of the pack in A main for both classes.


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Nothing really. The stock setup is decent - though I replaced all the Pink kit washers with either Black or Silver ones. I put softer 3racing big bore springs on both cars for the 3rd heat, and it was noticeably better: 7.0 front/7.5 rear in stock & 7.25 front/7.75 rear in scale spec.

Going to do a 3 hour drive to TVRCRC tomorrow for their first indoor club race of the season. Very happy with the cars thus far. Compared to my modified XI sports, the cars appear to be able to enter corners much hotter, while allowing me to comfortably pull the trigger during exit much sooner - which translates to more corner speed and less time on the brakes.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:56 PM   #53
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Where did you get your springs from? I haven't been able to find any other springs on the 3racing website as an option part yet?
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Old 10-01-2016, 11:03 PM   #54
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http://os.3racing.hk/car_parts.php?carkits_key=130
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Old 10-01-2016, 11:22 PM   #55
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Thank you! One last stupid question.... my dumbass scratched a shock shaft putting on the eyelet becuase tower didn't ship my shock shaft pliars even though the invoice said they were in the box and they weren't; I got impatient and thought I could do it but i scraped it just enough to have it bind a bit on the travel which isn't good enough.

I already mistakenly bought the wrong part from TQ Racing and apparently they don't let you cancel orders or something.

Long story short - the Advance uses the M3x24mm... the Ultimate, D3/D4 are all 28mm, there is an optional 25.5mm kit but no parts for the advance 24mm version. What should I do? Go 25.5? Won't it throw off the entire setup of the car?
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Old 10-02-2016, 05:36 AM   #56
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SAK-U314C is ultimate 14 ones and in its manual it also says m3 x 24 could these be the same as they are in stock

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Old 10-02-2016, 08:24 PM   #57
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Quote:
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SAK-U314C is ultimate 14 ones and in its manual it also says m3 x 24 could these be the same as they are in stock
Thank you you're absolutely correct!

Need to wire it up and put some shocks on when the replacement parts arrive but i'm super impressed with the kit, instructions were good, materials and fit are all superb...

But then again I have no input or onroad reference to give in comparison to other kits out there for you guys.
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Old 10-03-2016, 11:25 AM   #58
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I raced @ Overgear Racing on Saturday, and TVRCRC on Sunday. A-mained both cars at both clubs (17.5 TC & 21.5 USGT)

So after 2 club races, here’s what I observed:

The Big Bore shocks are softer. The big bores paired with the 3racing springs definitely felt softer than the pink 3racing shocks paired with Yeah racing TRF springs on my Xi’s sports. I have tried softer springs on the Xi, such as the tamiya neons, but they never felt right – often too soft. Like Goldilocks and the three bears, these shocks & springs (range 6.5 through 8.00) felt just right.

There was more natural flexing. This was apparent from the start. Likely a result of the CF plates. Not only are they CF, versus the FRP of the Xi sports, but they were re-designed. The top plate of the Xi sport had a tendency to crack and break in the exact same location on a regular – but predictable basis. The remedy was always to carry a spare $7 top plate. Because the top plates often broke in the same area, the flex on the Xi sport was limited to that breaking point. Having an FRP chassis helped the car to bend in other areas, but this was difficult to predict. The re-designed CF plates had a more natural torsion – very noticeable when I held the car in both hands and gently twisted the shock towers. Paired with the floating spur pulley (one less hard point), it reminded me of the Yokomo.

The car did not break. This sounds like a good thing in theory. But in practical applications, it pissed me right off, as the end result each time was a battery popping out of the car. I will have to tighten up the seat by putting nitro fuel tubing on the tabs – while also paying more attention to not touching things on the track with my car. Similar to flexible eyeglass frames, when twisted enough, the lens pops out, the flex of the chassis absorbed a lot of the impact and a solid item like the battery was left to be ejected.
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:02 PM   #59
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00000000000 - Took another whack at the Associated Spur with a little more gusto and hey presto it worked like a charm. Thanks again!
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Old 10-04-2016, 02:01 PM   #60
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Did my wiring last night.

Just waiting on the replacement shock shafts, e-clips, and shock shaft pliers to finally finish it up.
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