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Old 02-17-2017, 11:13 AM   #121
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Chris and Bill......Thank you both!!! I know I'm in for a learning curve, just trying to make sure I stay on the same road!! lol
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:28 AM   #122
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I would run the same setup. The only change I would possibly make is running the battery transverse.
Update to what I said earlier...Last weekend at Stockton (CRC gray carpet), I did go from my in-line car to the transverse battery car...and loved it. Made a very difficult switch back turn easy to navigate.

Did receive a backordered Team Scream 17.5 motor (for WGT-R) this week. Too bad it didn't come before last weekend. <cry> Hoping to try it soon. <smile>

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Old 02-17-2017, 11:29 AM   #123
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Chris and Bill......Thank you both!!! I know I'm in for a learning curve, just trying to make sure I stay on the same road!! lol
Brian,

We LOVE helping! Keep em coming...

Bill
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:36 AM   #124
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I'm assuming the electronics section of the forum will be a bit wide on suggestions so I'll put it here.

What size, type wires are you running on 1S esc and 17.5 1S motor for this chassis?
I'm asking because the HW ESC OEM wires look a bit small in diameter and could possibly be an amperage restriction?

CRC Gen X 10 R/T
Hobby Wing V3.1 ESC
Trinity Monster 17.5 1S
1S lipo

New to on road...

They are just fine.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:49 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by gmackhurry View Post
I'm assuming the electronics section of the forum will be a bit wide on suggestions so I'll put it here.

What size, type wires are you running on 1S esc and 17.5 1S motor for this chassis?
I'm asking because the HW ESC OEM wires look a bit small in diameter and could possibly be an amperage restriction?

CRC Gen X 10 R/T
Hobby Wing V3.1 ESC
Trinity Monster 17.5 1S
1S lipo

New to on road...
Basically, I agree with Chris about the sizing of the HW wires. But, make a nice arc with the wires from the ESC to the motor to prevent them from having a negative effect on the free movement of the rear pod.

Personally, I always use TQ #13 wire which is very flexible for its size. But, I'm anal about that...LOL

And while we are at it...For in-line battery configurations, I always position the battery connectors towards the rear to be able to use the shortest wires from the ESC to the pack. ESC at the back too. This does not apply to the transverse battery setup.

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Old 02-19-2017, 07:33 AM   #126
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Update to what I said earlier...Last weekend at Stockton (CRC gray carpet), I did go from my in-line car to the transverse battery car...and loved it. Made a very difficult switch back turn easy to navigate.

Did receive a backordered Team Scream 17.5 motor (for WGT-R) this week. Too bad it didn't come before last weekend. <cry> Hoping to try it soon. <smile>

Bill
Bill,

Could you elaborate on the transverse vs inline? We race on CRC gray carpet...
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:06 AM   #127
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Originally Posted by gmackhurry View Post
I'm assuming the electronics section of the forum will be a bit wide on suggestions so I'll put it here.

What size, type wires are you running on 1S esc and 17.5 1S motor for this chassis?
I'm asking because the HW ESC OEM wires look a bit small in diameter and could possibly be an amperage restriction?

CRC Gen X 10 R/T
Hobby Wing V3.1 ESC
Trinity Monster 17.5 1S
1S lipo

New to on road...
Given the short length of the wires, you have no losses even with 16ga wires. pan cars typically only use 16ga to the motor to allow for more flex which has less influence on the pod movement and most probably use 14-12ga to the battery.
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:25 AM   #128
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Bill,

Could you elaborate on the transverse vs inline? We race on CRC gray carpet...
From what I have learned, transverse effectively lowers roll center and allows the chassis to roll a bit more in the corners and places a little more weight on the rear tires since the battery is usually more rearward. This helps to gain a little more traction and is more stable under most conditions. The inline configuration is more nimble and effectively raises roll center while distributing weight more evenly along the centerline of the chassis.
Depending on your track surface, transverse may feel a bit lazy in comparison to inline in higher traction conditions. I myself like the more stable feel of a transverse battery. I tend to use slightly stiffer front springs to compensate for the laziness. My BMI chassis is very direct and doesn't feel lazy at all with almost no tire howl. I'm going to set up my CRC the same way to see if it reacts similar. By the way, My CRC also has very little tire howl as compared to many of the other cars on track. I imagine that's a good thing as it's not scrubbing off corner speed.
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:57 AM   #129
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Hi folks, I was thinking about getting a new pan car. Just scrolling through this thread and have a couple of questions.
Is this car capable of running two 1s batts placed similar to the saddle packs?
This car won many of the big races, were these races won on foam or rubber tires?
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:17 AM   #130
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Hi folks, I was thinking about getting a new pan car. Just scrolling through this thread and have a couple of questions.
Is this car capable of running two 1s batts placed similar to the saddle packs?
This car won many of the big races, were these races won on foam or rubber tires?
Maybe you are thinking about a 235mm car. This is a WGT-R specific chassis which is designed for a single 1s battery running the CRC rubber tires. WGT used to be run on foam tires but the class died out for the most part, hence the switch to rubber tires and GT bodies due to the popularity of other GT classes and the desire to run on both carpet and pavement. If you want to run 2s, have a look at the 235mm thread.
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Old 02-19-2017, 10:36 AM   #131
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From what I have learned, transverse effectively lowers roll center and allows the chassis to roll a bit more in the corners and places a little more weight on the rear tires since the battery is usually more rearward. This helps to gain a little more traction and is more stable under most conditions. The inline configuration is more nimble and effectively raises roll center while distributing weight more evenly along the centerline of the chassis.
Depending on your track surface, transverse may feel a bit lazy in comparison to inline in higher traction conditions. I myself like the more stable feel of a transverse battery. I tend to use slightly stiffer front springs to compensate for the laziness. My BMI chassis is very direct and doesn't feel lazy at all with almost no tire howl. I'm going to set up my CRC the same way to see if it reacts similar. By the way, My CRC also has very little tire howl as compared to many of the other cars on track. I imagine that's a good thing as it's not scrubbing off corner speed.
And I agree with YoDog.

My in-line car is one of those at Stockton with a lot of tire chirping; whereas, the transverse car was much quieter on the same track.

Funny, that I usually associate in-line battery configurations with being able to negotiate switchback turns quicker; but, not on CRC gray carpet that day.

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Old 02-19-2017, 10:51 AM   #132
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And I agree with YoDog.

My in-line car is one of those at Stockton with a lot of tire chirping; whereas, the transverse car was much quieter on the same track.

Funny, that I usually associate in-line battery configurations with being able to negotiate switchback turns quicker; but, not on CRC gray carpet that day.

Bill
That's likely due to some over rotation or push because the car is sliding too much. It probably negotiates the switchbacks better if the grip is up but not so good when it's marginal. I feel the weight being more rearward helps plant the rear as well as let the front end change direction easier due to less mass on the nose.
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Old 02-19-2017, 10:56 AM   #133
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Maybe you are thinking about a 235mm car. This is a WGT-R specific chassis which is designed for a single 1s battery running the CRC rubber tires. WGT used to be run on foam tires but the class died out for the most part, hence the switch to rubber tires and GT bodies due to the popularity of other GT classes and the desire to run on both carpet and pavement. If you want to run 2s, have a look at the 235mm thread.
Thanks YoDog, in the description , I believe it says you can run saddle packs, that's what brought up the question. Also, I have read that rubber does not work well on pavement for the 235's. I was trying to make a comparison between the two.
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:00 AM   #134
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Default w00t!!

Fenix gear differential on the way from the good folks at CRC...so stoked to try it!
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:12 AM   #135
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Fenix gear differential on the way from the good folks at CRC...so stoked to try it!
I have had the diff for a while, (5 months). It works great but with the lower HP of the WGT-R car it isn't as significant a help as it is in a F1 car. Really reduces your maintenance though. One kicker, the threads for the wheel on the diff side were 3mm on mine. The head of a 3mm shcs is larger than a 4-40 and will not go into the counter bore on the crc wheel. I took a set of 3mm shcs and ground them down with my Dremel and belt sander.
Do not try and run diff fluid in these as they are not sealed. A film of medium to thick grease on the side gears is all you need. Building resistance in the diff reduces the cars ability to rotate in the corner. All of my racing is on carpet. If you are setting it up for asphalt the game is different.
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