The Drift Thread
#1609
vid
This is my youtube long time ago.
Sakura Zero S modify Cs drift . Body shell classic Pontiac .
Look not good play.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xudG5NW8lig
Sakura Zero S modify Cs drift . Body shell classic Pontiac .
Look not good play.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xudG5NW8lig
#1610
Tech Initiate
I signed up for the HyperDrift website almost a week ago and haven't been approved (Same username as here).
Is it still an active site? Can anyone PM a Mod or anything? I don't know how to get accepted and I feel like i'm still missing a community! Looking for somewhere to hang out and talk RC!
Is it still an active site? Can anyone PM a Mod or anything? I don't know how to get accepted and I feel like i'm still missing a community! Looking for somewhere to hang out and talk RC!
#1611
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Jdmp, maybe you can help? Starting to look at building a CS car. I've seen 3 different versions of the Dmax. A standard, an SP version, and an HSS version, but can't find a good explanation of the differences. Any idea if they're cosmetic, or are there performance differences? If the higher priced versions perform better, might as well just part with the cash up front. But, if one just has more bling, that's a whole different story.
#1612
Tech Initiate
Well my Yokomo D-Max will arrive next week with my 1.8 CS setup.
I need a motor, radio etc. Complete new setup. Anyone have options for these parts that are trusted and known to be a good setup. Maybe a cheaper solution to high?
Thanks for the suggestions!
I need a motor, radio etc. Complete new setup. Anyone have options for these parts that are trusted and known to be a good setup. Maybe a cheaper solution to high?
Thanks for the suggestions!
#1613
Tech Rookie
help getting started drifting
well i just got a used tc4 its pretty much new the guy had to have only run it a couple times and never outside lol, but im looking into drifting i wanted to know what i would have to change or look into changing and what kind of tires are best.. as i know of now there is no one drift racing around me but i got some buddies that want to.. im new to rc car racing but my grandpa and dad raced carpet and dirt outside so i got some help doing the work but need some drifting advice thanks anyone who can help me out also if you wanna just send me a msg on skype that would work too ksheldon1996 thanks
#1614
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Look on the Speed Passion site at ESC/motor. They have their drift package right now for $65. Sensorless with a 4000 kV motor. I run their GT 2.0 Pro and 2.0 LPF sensored systems in my offroad cars and love them. I don't know much about the drift system, but was thinking about picking one up because it's cheap and their other stuff has been so good. They have threads in both the on-road and off-road sections where their team drivers, R&D folks, etc. post. Might ask what one of them knows. Turbigy batteries are great bang fr the buck. I run Promatch batteries, still a great deal, more than the Turnigy, but top notch batteries. There are a million different radio options. M11 2.4 is still a great radio and you can get a deal on a use one. I know a guy here locally, very trustworthy, was selling his for I think $150? If you're interested I'll see if he still has it.
#1615
I'm new to drift but not new to R/C cars. I've been on a 2 year break from the hobby but want to get back in. I'm debating on whether or not I should run a TA03F Pro or go with something new, like the TB03D or even a VDS.
#1616
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Jdmp, maybe you can help? Starting to look at building a CS car. I've seen 3 different versions of the Dmax. A standard, an SP version, and an HSS version, but can't find a good explanation of the differences. Any idea if they're cosmetic, or are there performance differences? If the higher priced versions perform better, might as well just part with the cash up front. But, if one just has more bling, that's a whole different story.
Okay if you have less than $500 to spend buy the Dmax basic. The premium only includes an aluminum motor mount which is unnecessary. Also titanium turnbuckles which can be bought seperate for cheap. I bought the basic kit, i just used the long Yokomo heatsink and an eagle racing fan. Now the Dmax HSS which stands for Hiroshi Suzuki Special. He is the test driver and factory driver for Yokomo. It is well worth the money to shell out extra for the HSS it comes with parts you can not buy seperate. One of the best things is it includes all the suzuki aluminum hubs, And special suzuki steering rack. Among other things it includes cv boots for the main driveshafts which is very nice, im constantly rebuilding mine because of the grime, they suck in dirt no matter what. my wheel CV's for some reason dont suck in any dirt. So depending on your budget, either the basic or HSS.*
I bought a basic and added this
-Yokomo sensored brushless motor and esc
-titanium kingpins
-super fast sanwa servo, 0.8 6v
-Yokomo long heatsink with fan
-Kazama center spool (that center clutch is trash)
-Vertex front CV joints
-Yokomo swift springs, blue front, kit silver rear springs
-3 degree rear toe blocks with 1 degree toe hubs
-titanium steering turnbuckles
-1.5 rear CS gear
-aluminum axles, i kept breaking plastic ones
-Yokomo saddle pack lipo's
-Yokomo zero 1R tires
Thats about all i can think of right now.
#1617
Tech Initiate
As a quick note JDMPurest you have a PM.
#1618
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Dmax
Okay if you have less than $500 to spend buy the Dmax basic. The premium only includes an aluminum motor mount which is unnecessary. Also titanium turnbuckles which can be bought seperate for cheap. I bought the basic kit, i just used the long Yokomo heatsink and an eagle racing fan. Now the Dmax HSS which stands for Hiroshi Suzuki Special. He is the test driver and factory driver for Yokomo. It is well worth the money to shell out extra for the HSS it comes with parts you can not buy seperate. One of the best things is it includes all the suzuki aluminum hubs, And special suzuki steering rack. Among other things it includes cv boots for the main driveshafts which is very nice, im constantly rebuilding mine because of the grime, they suck in dirt no matter what. my wheel CV's for some reason dont suck in any dirt. So depending on your budget, either the basic or HSS.*
I bought a basic and added this
-Yokomo sensored brushless motor and esc
-titanium kingpins
-super fast sanwa servo, 0.8 6v
-Yokomo long heatsink with fan
-Kazama center spool (that center clutch is trash)
-Vertex front CV joints
-Yokomo swift springs, blue front, kit silver rear springs
-3 degree rear toe blocks with 1 degree toe hubs
-titanium steering turnbuckles
-1.5 rear CS gear
-aluminum axles, i kept breaking plastic ones
-Yokomo saddle pack lipo's
-Yokomo zero 1R tires
Thats about all i can think of right now.
Okay if you have less than $500 to spend buy the Dmax basic. The premium only includes an aluminum motor mount which is unnecessary. Also titanium turnbuckles which can be bought seperate for cheap. I bought the basic kit, i just used the long Yokomo heatsink and an eagle racing fan. Now the Dmax HSS which stands for Hiroshi Suzuki Special. He is the test driver and factory driver for Yokomo. It is well worth the money to shell out extra for the HSS it comes with parts you can not buy seperate. One of the best things is it includes all the suzuki aluminum hubs, And special suzuki steering rack. Among other things it includes cv boots for the main driveshafts which is very nice, im constantly rebuilding mine because of the grime, they suck in dirt no matter what. my wheel CV's for some reason dont suck in any dirt. So depending on your budget, either the basic or HSS.*
I bought a basic and added this
-Yokomo sensored brushless motor and esc
-titanium kingpins
-super fast sanwa servo, 0.8 6v
-Yokomo long heatsink with fan
-Kazama center spool (that center clutch is trash)
-Vertex front CV joints
-Yokomo swift springs, blue front, kit silver rear springs
-3 degree rear toe blocks with 1 degree toe hubs
-titanium steering turnbuckles
-1.5 rear CS gear
-aluminum axles, i kept breaking plastic ones
-Yokomo saddle pack lipo's
-Yokomo zero 1R tires
Thats about all i can think of right now.
I have always ran standard servos for drifting, I find the highspeed (espically with countersteer) causes too much correction and leaves too much room for error when transitioning on more technical courses.
Hpi tdrifts have always treated me well (except carpet tracks) and the patterned tires have more grip than the slicks. Something else you may also want to take into consideration are the wheels. I usually run the +10 rear/+7 fronts speedway pal wheels and that helps reduce the bodyroll and gives the front more understeer and allows for more full lock to be achieved.
#1619
Tech Rookie
Oddly enough, the next generation of drift cars looks vaguely like a rehash of the TA03F Pro. If you don't mind hacking the car apart to get the steering lock and experimenting with pulleys and belt sizes, go for it.
Else I'd recommend the TA05-VDF.
#1620
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I would i have to politely disagree with you. Given my extensive experience with 1:1 drifting as well as RC CS drifting fast servo's work better for me. I tried drifting with a slow servo and could never make the counter in time and always spun. I learned this from the japanese as well. All of the japanese drivers here use lightning fast servo's. If slightly slower servo's are better for you then thats good. You can get away with not spending alot of money on a fast servos haha.