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Old 01-28-2006, 09:54 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedudeaturdoor
Aries- r u the guy on rc drift forms with the pic of the bomber glasses for your avatar?
Yep, I'm on driftrcentral.com and groovydrift.com, but mainly hang out at driftrcentral. I also peek into rcdriftnation.com here and there only because those guys are trying to get the rcdrift scene in Toronto and I'm only a few hours from them. I've drive to Toronto all the time to hang with my cousins and I've drifted with those guys up there. Dang, there are too many rc drift boards! lol...
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Old 01-28-2006, 12:58 PM   #167
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can somebody help me
whitte a drift setup for a Hpi pro4?
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Old 01-28-2006, 01:11 PM   #168
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all i did was stick drift tyres on it worked i loosly baised the car around a basic on road set up and it worked i dont think theres a perfect drift set up is there? if there is i aint heard it and dont need it
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Old 01-28-2006, 01:38 PM   #169
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do i have to put a 3mm chassis???
and i diff on the front or oneway?
and how about the springs?
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Old 01-28-2006, 01:48 PM   #170
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im runnin a TC3 so i cant say about the 3mm chassis part, i run diff in the rear and a solid in the front, and i use harder spring on the front 30lbs/in and 14.5lbs/in on the rear with 50wt oil all round

oh ya as the 10x3 armature is nackered i ordered a 8x3 armature as replacement i have no idea how that will drift i got a lower wind in me box if it to much
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Old 01-28-2006, 01:49 PM   #171
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Drift set-up is a little different to touring:

Try:
Spool on the rear
Diff in the front
medium oil all round.
Medium to hard springs all round.
1deg rear toe
0 or 1deg toe out front

The most important are the diffs:

A locked rear diff causes the car to want to kick-out under acceleration as the inner wheel is travelling at the same speed as the outer. Something has to give! Not only that, once the car is sideways, the spool still provides forward drive. A normal diff would at this stage, unload the inner tire and you lose drive. This is the reason why drifters and manufacturers of RWD cars use LSD's.

A front diff is preferrable over a front spool or one-way because it allows the inner wheel to unload during a turn. In Dori, the wheels speeds are always higher than the car's forward speed. A one-way will stay engaged(like a spool) and this causes the inner wheel to spin up. Your front turn-in suffers as a result.

The only advantage of using a front one-way is that on braking, you are braking the rear-wheels only. Good if you're on a tight track and need to severely tighten your line choice.

Medium oil - helps to stabilise the car during transtitions.
Medium to hard springs - To give consistency oncce the car is sliding and to improve response. Little weight transfer is needed once the car is sliding.

Toe in on the rear is not required(use 1 deg) as you want to maintain as large a drift angle as you can.

Use small movements. You will be surprised how fine a control you have over the car.
Good luck..


For more info:
www.rc-d1.com

Cheers!
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Old 01-28-2006, 04:01 PM   #172
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do i need a sway bar front or rear?
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Old 01-28-2006, 05:36 PM   #173
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What is ABS????
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Old 01-28-2006, 05:38 PM   #174
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It is plumber pipe that is very smooth.
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Old 01-28-2006, 07:05 PM   #175
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na sway bars are a extra, they give you longer drifts

my advice:
start out like a 14 year old

only buy things that u need
then after u can drift really well,
add extras like BL'S and sway bars, cool bodies, mods, etc..

just my advice
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Old 01-28-2006, 07:07 PM   #176
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ABS is black plumbers pipe

take one of ur rims up to Home Depot and ask someone for some ABS pip that will fit around your rim,

then cut the pipe so its as wide as ur rim, and then ZAP or CA glue it to the rim
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Old 01-28-2006, 07:28 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedudeaturdoor
na sway bars are a extra, they give you longer drifts

my advice:
start out like a 14 year old

only buy things that u need
then after u can drift really well,
add extras like BL'S and sway bars, cool bodies, mods, etc..

just my advice
im 14 and i did the exact opposite as that. i got all the bling first then important parts. actually im still waiting on many important parts (esc, differentials, alloy dog bones) LOL im really stupid
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:52 AM   #178
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yeah,

im still using taped tires,

i dont have ABS ones yet!
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Old 01-29-2006, 11:10 AM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Drift set-up is a little different to touring:

Try:
Spool on the rear
Diff in the front
medium oil all round.
Medium to hard springs all round.
1deg rear toe
0 or 1deg toe out front

The most important are the diffs:

A locked rear diff causes the car to want to kick-out under acceleration as the inner wheel is travelling at the same speed as the outer. Something has to give! Not only that, once the car is sideways, the spool still provides forward drive. A normal diff would at this stage, unload the inner tire and you lose drive. This is the reason why drifters and manufacturers of RWD cars use LSD's.

A front diff is preferrable over a front spool or one-way because it allows the inner wheel to unload during a turn. In Dori, the wheels speeds are always higher than the car's forward speed. A one-way will stay engaged(like a spool) and this causes the inner wheel to spin up. Your front turn-in suffers as a result.

The only advantage of using a front one-way is that on braking, you are braking the rear-wheels only. Good if you're on a tight track and need to severely tighten your line choice.

Medium oil - helps to stabilise the car during transtitions.
Medium to hard springs - To give consistency oncce the car is sliding and to improve response. Little weight transfer is needed once the car is sliding.

Toe in on the rear is not required(use 1 deg) as you want to maintain as large a drift angle as you can.

Use small movements. You will be surprised how fine a control you have over the car.
Good luck..


For more info:
www.rc-d1.com

Cheers!

Just to let you know some of your info is wrong

and well first if you use a spool in your rear youíll get more of longer drifts but the rear would not be able to maintain or higher an angle as if it were to be an open diff in the rear... actually you think in turning with a open diff in the rear the open diff will slip and the power transfers would go the other side (since the outside wheel will always be faster if your using a open diff in a turn then for drifting you want to keep that outside wheel faster just until the apex of the turn and for that it will be even power to the wheels because your in the angle already) and therefore better angles, better stability, better control, and better turn in

Second a LSD is NOT a spool itís a limited slip differential that allows the wheels to maintain the power but not to much to lock up with the tranny and therefore can not have different wheel speeds when needed (a spool locks up with the tranny)

Something that you didn't mention is that well I would run open diffs front and back but keep the rear diff just a little tighter then the front and also keep the rear a bit stiffer (suspension)
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Old 01-29-2006, 04:27 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony390
Just to let you know some of your info is wrong

and well first if you use a spool in your rear you’ll get more of longer drifts but the rear would not be able to maintain or higher an angle as if it were to be an open diff in the rear... actually you think in turning with a open diff in the rear the open diff will slip and the power transfers would go the other side (since the outside wheel will always be faster if your using a open diff in a turn then for drifting you want to keep that outside wheel faster just until the apex of the turn and for that it will be even power to the wheels because your in the angle already) and therefore better angles, better stability, better control, and better turn in

Second a LSD is NOT a spool it’s a limited slip differential that allows the wheels to maintain the power but not to much to lock up with the tranny and therefore can not have different wheel speeds when needed (a spool locks up with the tranny)

Something that you didn't mention is that well I would run open diffs front and back but keep the rear diff just a little tighter then the front and also keep the rear a bit stiffer (suspension)
Lets clear this up:

Firstly, on the topic of a rear spool. yes, your theory is correct in a grip racing situation. Providing the rear of the car has traction and both rear tires are hooked up. The car traveling in its traction circle WILL indeed require the outside rear to travel FASTER than the inside rear. True.

However, as i mentioned, drift setup is a little different. The whole idea is to LOSE traction. On turn in, a diff setup in the rear will allow the outside to complete its traction circle and the wheel stays hooked up and planted. This is at the detriment of turn in because it effectively increases rear grip.

A spool eliminates the tendency of the rear to hook up. How? By eliminating the ability to complete the traction circle, to compensate one of the tires MUST start to slip. This decreases traction and causes the rear of the car to initate a greater slip angle. (Aka. DRIFT)

As for drift angle, the same theory applies. Once sliding, unless both rear wheels are equally loaded, a diff WILL unload in the direction of the lighter sprung wheel. This facilitates outside grip at the expense of forward traction. If one wheel is unloading, then you have no forward drive. The slip angle decreases and your drift ends. So in this situation the Spool is also superior.
You state that this will result in a great drift angle. How can this be so? You mentioned the diff unloads and allows the outside wheel to spin faster. When the rear of the car is sliding, it is undergoing a slip angle to compensate for its pointed direction. Neither rear wheel needs to spin faster than the other. The acceleration vector is inline with the rear of the car. Not pivoting on the inside rear as in a grip racing situation.

This is similar to what you stated, however. A diff will still have a tendency to unload as the rear of the car is dynamic and never evenly loaded. A spool effectively sums the difference and most importantly, provide forward traction to continue the drift regardless of angle. Something which cannot be said of a diff. As the slip angle increases, the higher the tendency of the diff unloading to the inside wheel.


An LSD by definition(limited slip differential) is not a spool. So you are correct in saying this! However, if you read my post correctly i did not say it was. Please don't misquote me.
I did make mention of the fact that like a spool, it provides forward traction for the end of the car that is experiencing a large slip angle. Perhaps i should have made this more clear for you.

Why would you need to keep the outside rear wheel faster in a turn until you hit the apex? Even in a grip racing situation, once exiting a corner your rear diff is still providing conpensation for the rotational differential at the rear of the car. Only in a perfect unobtainable situation is the diff purely providing traction and experiencing a "locked" state. This statement is misleading in a grip situation.

In a drift, the rear of your car is experiencing a large slip angle as you point into the corner. If you were to follow the accleration vector, then the apex is irrelevant. Are you taking a racing line? Are you taking a line that best allows for drift angle? You tell me.

Finally, to quote:
"Something that you didn't mention is that well I would run open diffs front and back but keep the rear diff just a little tighter then the front and also keep the rear a bit stiffer (suspension)"

Of course i did not mention this!! This is not something that i run. How could i possibly mention a setup that i don't run, from a person that i don't know?You are entitled to your opinion, as i am to mine. If you have a thought or comment please post it, but critising my post on the basis that i didn't mention something YOU prefer is absurd.

I hope this post clears things up for you. If not, please feel free to correct me!
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