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Old 11-05-2011, 04:00 AM   #1696
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Ok googled Ofna TC and couldnt quite find what I was thinking of so maybe you could point me in the right direction.

Also, what are the benefits of the shaft driven chassis to the belt driven? Is there better performance with the belts? Less parts?

Thanks for all the help!

Justin
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:08 AM   #1697
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Shaft driven cars are heavier and have problems with torque steer.
Also CS is a bigger problem to realize then on belt driven cars.
Good thing about shaft driven cars are sealed transmission(well most parts) so you can drive them on a dirty track without having the problems with pebbles or dirt.
A belt car is lighter and is easy to confert to CS ratio.
Also no torque steer
Drivetrain has less friction so longer running time and yes the belt cars have less parts in the drivetrain.

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by WILDMAN442 View Post
Ok googled Ofna TC and couldnt quite find what I was thinking of so maybe you could point me in the right direction.

Also, what are the benefits of the shaft driven chassis to the belt driven? Is there better performance with the belts? Less parts?

Thanks for all the help!

Justin
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Old 11-05-2011, 11:34 AM   #1698
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Torque steer depends on set up, and preference.
I seen shaft drives that did as well as belt drives, you just have to work with things.

Now CS aka Counter Steer Mod I would stay away from if you are new.
Get the basics first and understand how to modify the car.

This was my drifter its now been converted to a racer.

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Old 11-05-2011, 09:13 PM   #1699
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It seems that a lot of people still use the TT-01D.

Would I be making a mistake to start off with this? It seems like a decent beginners rig.

Im not looking for Yokomo status right out of the gate...

Justin
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:03 AM   #1700
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It all depends on what you have to pay for the kit.
Some people sell them cheap, others are asking big bucks.
If your lucky, you can pick up a nice car for not so much money.
It all depends what you are looking for and what the budget is.

regards Roy

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It seems that a lot of people still use the TT-01D.

Would I be making a mistake to start off with this? It seems like a decent beginners rig.

Im not looking for Yokomo status right out of the gate...

Justin
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:27 AM   #1701
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Originally Posted by CillieAcc0rd5o4 View Post
Get a Touring car instead if you cant afford a Higher end Drift car.

Some cheap ones that are better quality than the TT-01
Ofna TC Both drift and TC are about $100 USD new
Schumacher Mi1 is about $100-150 USD new
If you bored of drifting take it to the track and race (Set up required)

HPI Cyclone is RTR fairly cheap considering it has Brushless system in it
(If you graduate from normal chassis to Exotic you can always get the Exotek)

And blah blah blah there are plenty of choices xD

Any one want a drift body ?
$40 Bucks shipped inside US


You just missed our Drift Comp this passed week end in San Antoino, we had people from Austin and the surrounding cities show up to drift with us CCM gave out trophies and prizes to 1,2,3 place..


Missed out..
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:55 AM   #1702
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Yeah ,... I know we been slammed work wise.
Have to make the money to survive ...

But you will see me more and more around the TX RC world I hope.
We are Sponsoring the HARC race for offroad that is coming.

And i am hoping to Help out and attend at the THRC... even in December 3rd.
Its not a Drift event, but alot of Onroad racer will be down from Dallas and Austin. I asume from your home track.
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:25 AM   #1703
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hey guys, ive got a drift chassis and im in need of a motor and speedy, im thinking mamba max pro just coz its just the best but im not a drifter at all so if u have any info on what u guys run or what combo or turn could be help to me, thanks.
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:04 AM   #1704
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Mitchie,

The best that I know of for drifting are Sensored motor/Esc combo. Motor runs from 8.5 -13.5 turns and ESC commonly 35-90 amps is claimed by in forums to be optimal torque/power.

Novak/Nosram/LRP/EZrun/S. Passion is mostly used by the group but many members stand by LRP's AI ESC.

In drifting, motor should have low speed control and does not jolt when accelerating( commonly noted with Sensorless).

In short sensored Brushless system , should be controllable at low speed and behaves like a brushed motor/ESC system.

Which bring me to my question to fellow Drifters

Do any of you have first hand experience with Speed passion Cirtix D manager/4000kv motor Combo?
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:25 PM   #1705
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Mitchie,

The best that I know of for drifting are Sensored motor/Esc combo. Motor runs from 8.5 -13.5 turns and ESC commonly 35-90 amps is claimed by in forums to be optimal torque/power.

Novak/Nosram/LRP/EZrun/S. Passion is mostly used by the group but many members stand by LRP's AI ESC.

In drifting, motor should have low speed control and does not jolt when accelerating( commonly noted with Sensorless).

In short sensored Brushless system , should be controllable at low speed and behaves like a brushed motor/ESC system.

Which bring me to my question to fellow Drifters

Do any of you have first hand experience with Speed passion Cirtix D manager/4000kv motor Combo?
"Jolting" can be due to ratio being geared too low. I usually run around 6.3-6.5 FDR Also, By turning down the Punch on the esc and adjusting the timing on the motor.
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:00 PM   #1706
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hey guys, I am thinking of getting into drifting and bought a xxxs that was a drifter and came with a spool in the rear and abs pipe tires. Thinking of putting a 13.5 in it. What would be a good starting point as far as shock oils, springs camber, ride height...etc. please pm me , i will try to remember to look on this thread but might forget, any info/insight would be much appriciated. thanks,

Craig P.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:23 PM   #1707
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I was hoping to find out more info on the Hot Bodies TC-FD but there is none that I can find anywhere... I really like the idea that I can set this chassis up for racing in the winter and then summer switch it over to drifting. Although it would be me alone drifting as we have none up here in TX...

Really debating about this car or the TA06 Pro and just hoping it up as I go such as VBC or Exotek chassis, etc...

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HB TC-FD >>> $440 at my local hobby Shop! and there is 3 in sock!
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Anyone know if the Hot Bodies TC FD shares any parts with the Cyclone such as diffs?

I am debating on getting the TC FD as I have a Cyclone S now. I love my S but would like to get something a little better and still stay within Hot Bodies.
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The tc-fd shares the tcx parts. So which ever parts fit that car carry over aswell.
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When i posted the retail price from HB was $799. Still not worth it to me at $440 when i can get a SJ OTA-R3R for $50 more.
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Old 12-01-2011, 02:25 PM   #1708
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Originally Posted by speedy Craig View Post
hey guys, I am thinking of getting into drifting and bought a xxxs that was a drifter and came with a spool in the rear and abs pipe tires. Thinking of putting a 13.5 in it. What would be a good starting point as far as shock oils, springs camber, ride height...etc. please pm me , i will try to remember to look on this thread but might forget, any info/insight would be much appriciated. thanks,

Craig P.
any help would be awsome.. Bump!!!!
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:57 PM   #1709
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With drift cars you have no traction on ABS or T-drift tires. So you want to set up your suspension to gain as much traction as possible. Soft springs, light shock oil and and as much flex as possible. Unless you plan on doing CS drifting camber and caster don't influence the car much as the tires wear flat any camber.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:22 PM   #1710
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With drift cars you have no traction on ABS or T-drift tires. So you want to set up your suspension to gain as much traction as possible. Soft springs, light shock oil and and as much flex as possible. Unless you plan on doing CS drifting camber and caster don't influence the car much as the tires wear flat any camber.
Camber and toe play a huge role. Castor, not so much. I run 40wt oil; yokomo black black springs(softest available) rear toe 3* and 0* camber in the rear, 1.5 up front.
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