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Old 07-23-2011, 05:10 PM   #1621
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Funny you should mention standard servos. When I started drifting, I learned how to drift using a standard servo. I got used to the travel time and worked with it. A few months later, I went for the high speed servo. Coupled with my radio, I can go lock to lock in about a half a second. That helped me go for the super wide drifts, where I can exit the corner completely sideways and then reel in the back end to set up for the next corner.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:44 PM   #1622
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Man...sooo many pages to go through. So yet another 'getting started post'
I run off road SCT 2wd mod and 4x4 and just started running a 17.5 TC6.

I want to have some fun drifting, but under 200 on a kit. I have anywhere from a 7.5t to 17.5t in my box, a spare SXX Comp and a Savox 1258 servo. I can get a free TC3 or a great deal on a new TB03D. It's in the budget so I'm guessing I go for the TB03D? Do you guys run spools front and rear? Any advice to make my start more enjoyable would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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Old 07-24-2011, 12:16 AM   #1623
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On the principle of not being able to find new parts for the TA03F pro, I'd say to go with something new.

Oddly enough, the next generation of drift cars looks vaguely like a rehash of the TA03F Pro. If you don't mind hacking the car apart to get the steering lock and experimenting with pulleys and belt sizes, go for it.

Else I'd recommend the TA05-VDF.

I love the VDF. That is one sexy a55 chassis. That said, it's surely to be followed by the red word "discontinued" on the Tamiyausa site with the arrival of the VDS. I'm also leery of belts as I plan on using my drifter as a run anywhere anytime plaything and my last belt driven basher hated me for it. Thats another reason why I'm iffy on restoring the 03F.
I'm really leaning toward the VDS or even the TB03D with the Eagle conversion. I guess I have a thing for shaft driven Tamiya's that dates all the way back to Super Sabres and Hot Shots. I have a TG10Mk2 Pro that leaves me wondering how much is compatible with the TB03 chassis for CS hybrid witchcraft.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:05 AM   #1624
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Waiting on my shippment from hobbypartz this week (ordered a new lipo 5500, charger, and 2.4 controller) so i can start up with my Ofna JL10e and drift with my buddy who has a sprint to flux i believe it is, -

Also bummed eastcoast doesnt have much hype - where is all my NY drifters?

**Facebook Group Created** Westchester RC's (cant post link yet but page is live!)

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Old 07-25-2011, 07:54 AM   #1625
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I would i have to politely disagree with you. Given my extensive experience with 1:1 drifting as well as RC CS drifting fast servo's work better for me. I tried drifting with a slow servo and could never make the counter in time and always spun. I learned this from the japanese as well. All of the japanese drivers here use lightning fast servo's. If slightly slower servo's are better for you then thats good. You can get away with not spending alot of money on a fast servos haha.
I am sure you run on some very technical courses. I always kept 3 servos with me, 2 standard and 1 Futaba brushless ultra high speed, but I always seemed to favor the standard ones. I am currently using the Futaba Ultra high speed on my 4.5t powered TC for on road.

I really wish there was the motivation, dedication and passion in the US for drifting as there is in Japan.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:02 AM   #1626
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I am sure you run on some very technical courses.

I really wish there was the motivation, dedication and passion in the US for drifting as there is in Japan.
Yea the Big tracks here are usually half very high speed with the other half being slow speed super tech. The small tracks are usually very tight technical cs friendly tracks with some good long slide sections thrown in.

O man its mind boggling to go to drifting competitions here, even the lowest level guys have pit tables flushed with gear you would see at Tamiya Worlds. Its insane the level of money guys dump into CS drifting here. You can kinda see it with the increases in high level chassis prices. The new street jam kits, stores cant keep em in stock for nothing. That kits almost a $1000 with no electronics. The new HB TC-FD! $800!!! haha, ill probably buy one tho i love that new car.
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:18 PM   #1627
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Thank you sir. Not too worried about the coin. The HSS is still cheaper than either my 8ight or 8ight-T chassis were. I can show my wife how much money I saved LOL. Ran my Yok on a small on-road track today for the first time, lot of fun. Track had a lot of traction, they raced Thursday night and blew it off and soda prepped it. Camber change helped. If it hadn't been 100 deg F I would have stayed longer and played with the droop settings, but just couldn't take it. The car is money though, responds to every change I make to it. Reminds me why I like Yokomo cars so much. It's a shame they couldn't keep a presence here.

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Dmax
Okay if you have less than $500 to spend buy the Dmax basic. The premium only includes an aluminum motor mount which is unnecessary. Also titanium turnbuckles which can be bought seperate for cheap. I bought the basic kit, i just used the long Yokomo heatsink and an eagle racing fan. Now the Dmax HSS which stands for Hiroshi Suzuki Special. He is the test driver and factory driver for Yokomo. It is well worth the money to shell out extra for the HSS it comes with parts you can not buy seperate. One of the best things is it includes all the suzuki aluminum hubs, And special suzuki steering rack. Among other things it includes cv boots for the main driveshafts which is very nice, im constantly rebuilding mine because of the grime, they suck in dirt no matter what. my wheel CV's for some reason dont suck in any dirt. So depending on your budget, either the basic or HSS.*
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:25 PM   #1628
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
I am sure you run on some very technical courses. I always kept 3 servos with me, 2 standard and 1 Futaba brushless ultra high speed, but I always seemed to favor the standard ones. I am currently using the Futaba Ultra high speed on my 4.5t powered TC for on road.

I really wish there was the motivation, dedication and passion in the US for drifting as there is in Japan.
A buddy and I (Westchester RC's) are trying to change that as we speak since NY isnt even on the map for drifting popularity, even racing in general (electric speaking) - will let you guys know how it goes end of week as we have something in the works hopefully!
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:38 PM   #1629
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Anyone the offset for the stock wheels on the Type B MR4TC? can't find it in the manual. Thanks.
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:36 PM   #1630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdmpurest View Post
I would i have to politely disagree with you. Given my extensive experience with 1:1 drifting as well as RC CS drifting fast servo's work better for me. I tried drifting with a slow servo and could never make the counter in time and always spun. I learned this from the japanese as well. All of the japanese drivers here use lightning fast servo's. If slightly slower servo's are better for you then thats good. You can get away with not spending alot of money on a fast servos haha.
I have to agree. I've run a slower servo on my 50/50 (i don't even remember what it was) but now run a futaba, and I have to say, it's so much easier for me now, not just because it can keep me from spinning, but it's also a lot nicer to be able to change the steering almost instantaneously mid-drift to compensate for changes in throttle input. And over-correction can be easily avoided by just not turning to full lock.

On a sidenote, this past weekend was a drift competition at TamiyaUSA's R&D track, and i have to say, it was awesome. The asphalt seemed a bit grippier than I was used to, but it was a great experience.
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Old 07-30-2011, 03:20 PM   #1631
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Anyone the offset for the stock wheels on the Type B MR4TC? can't find it in the manual. Thanks.
the standard yokomo drift wheel is 4mm offset. As far as the "kit tire" I dont know. if you have one you can find out yourself. all you need is a barbecue skewer and a ruler. measure the distance from that flat point by putting the wheel face down, place the non pointed end of the bamboo skewer in the hole to touch the table make a line where the bamboo protrudes from the holethen with the ruler, lay it flat on the top of the rim(with it still face down and the skewer in it) and draw a line on the skewer where the ruler touches the skewer. (the bottompart of the ruler, not top. )

take out the skewer and measure the distance from the 2 lines. subtract that number from 1/2 the diameter of the wheel(in your case a 24mm 0 offset is at 12mm.)

example: your measure is 7mm. 12-7=5 so the wheel is a 5mm offset. you can play with the offset by buying different thickness hexes. for example. if your chassis has 5mm thich hex and your wheels are 3mm offset, you can ger a 3mm hex and fit 5mm offset wheels with more lip, and not adjusting how they prodrude from the chassis.

I know this is WAAAAAYYYYY beyond your question, but hopefully this answers it and then some.
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Old 07-30-2011, 03:23 PM   #1632
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I have to agree. I've run a slower servo on my 50/50 (i don't even remember what it was) but now run a futaba, and I have to say, it's so much easier for me now, not just because it can keep me from spinning, but it's also a lot nicer to be able to change the steering almost instantaneously mid-drift to compensate for changes in throttle input. And over-correction can be easily avoided by just not turning to full lock.

On a sidenote, this past weekend was a drift competition at TamiyaUSA's R&D track, and i have to say, it was awesome. The asphalt seemed a bit grippier than I was used to, but it was a great experience.
With it being a Tamiya event, they are VERY particular what tracks they use. It probably was a preped track for racing and the grippiness is from grape soda or VHT. The temp also probably played a role. I remember when I woudl drift at night, then the day, the heat caused quite a bit more traction and the drifting angles/transitions were tougher due to the additional speed and grip.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:29 AM   #1633
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I had an amazing half day today at Speedway Pal, they had a new track layout which was awesome. I got there at 10am when they opened and only shared the track with 1 other guy all the way until 3pm when i left! It was awesome, the track felt great, I started off with a new set of YOK Zero1R's since thats the only tire they allow, they were really slippery at first but once I put a pack through them they broke in and got nice and sticky. My car was perfect I didnt have to touch it at all! i just recharged batteries and swapped em out all day! it was a blast. Next time ill get some pics for you guys, I'd only been there once before for a competition. They have the best choice's in ramen too and only $2.00!! Plus a stocked store, they're was a bunch of random stuff i needed like balance wires and foam tape and they had it all, plus every Speedway Pal product they make in stock!!!! If any of you guys ever head out to Japan be sure to visit Speedway Pal!
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:13 AM   #1634
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I'm thinking of designing and machining aluminum wheels would anybody want this or would the plastic wheels some guys use b to hard to take on and off?
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:27 AM   #1635
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I'm thinking of designing and machining aluminum wheels would anybody want this or would the plastic wheels some guys use b to hard to take on and off?
Speedway Pal makes metal wheels, not many people use them. I was thinking about getting a set for fun. They're expensive usually, around $100 a pair. I prefer plastic wheels because if you slam hard into somthing you're usually gonna break a wheel before anything else, id rather break cheap $5 dollar wheels than $30 CVD's. Metal wheels would transfer that energy into the suspension and break turnbuckles or whatever.
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