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Old 07-13-2011, 03:19 PM   #1591
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good steeze team drift machine!
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:33 PM   #1592
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what weight diff fluid would you run to "lock out" the rear diff?
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Old 07-14-2011, 08:51 AM   #1593
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Originally Posted by omalley72 View Post
what weight diff fluid would you run to "lock out" the rear diff?
Do you have a touring car with a gear diff? You only use fluid in a gear diff, and most TC's have ball diffs. Go a few pages back, someone was talking about locking a ball diff using cotton balls.
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Old 07-14-2011, 08:58 AM   #1594
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Default M11X Drift Spec

the M11X Drift Spec comes with a Street Jam drift chassis OTA-R3X!
and keyence electronics.. that's the reason of that price tag!
check this out
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Old 07-14-2011, 09:06 AM   #1595
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Quote:
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what weight diff fluid would you run to "lock out" the rear diff?
Ive used everything from cotton balls to hot glue. Dont waste your time trying to lock a planetary diff with fluid. Cottonballs are the best Ive used so far. if youre running a call with a ball diff, you can lock that a little easier. take out the balls and make an e-tape washer around the gear and tighten the screw on the inside of the diff shaft all the down and it should lock.
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:27 PM   #1596
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the M11X Drift Spec comes with a Street Jam drift chassis OTA-R3X!
and keyence electronics.. that's the reason of that price tag!
check this out
No the package that comes with the car and electronics is over $2k. The TX/RX itself cost $900. Thats what i saw at my local store.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:46 PM   #1597
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Got a Tamiya TB03VDS Drift Spec Chassis Kit in stock!
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:15 PM   #1598
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Oh hell yeah, drifting is fun! Wasn't sure it was for guys with grown kids and a granddaughter, but love it ha ha ha. I upgraded the firmware on the R1 Pro last night, helped a lot with the cogging. It only cogs when the motor is warm and I've come to a complete stop. In other words, when I screw up. Drifting is a perfect application for sensorless because you're always on the throttle. Throttle is also much smoother with the new software, if anyone else is using this speedo, be sure you have the newest firmware.

Slidingjosh, what kind of motor temps are you getting? I'm 145 to 150 F on motor after 15 minutes, speedo about 5 to 10 deg cooler, and that's with 37 deg of timing. Usual Houston weather, 95 to 100 deg, 90% or better humidity. Haven't run it longer than 15 minutes yet to see if the temps stablize. My FDR is 5.875, which puts my rollout right at 35mm, which is what Tekin recommends for the 537. May drop a tooth on the pinion. What FDR and/or rollout do you run on your Yok, and what motor?
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:18 PM   #1599
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Once you get more advanced, you will quickly learn that art of drifting is all in finessing low range throttle input. It may be fun to rip full throttle, but much of the action happens in low throttle range. Modulating throttle keeps the car sideways.
[QUOTE=cjtamu;9417957Drifting is a perfect application for sensorless because you're always on the throttle.[/QUOTE]
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:59 AM   #1600
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Once you get more advanced, you will quickly learn that art of drifting is all in finessing low range throttle input. It may be fun to rip full throttle, but much of the action happens in low throttle range. Modulating throttle keeps the car sideways.
I have yet to pull full throttle on this car, and doubt I ever will. Most of the time it's in the low to mid-range, but it's never at a dead stop (which is the only time it has any cogging issues) unless I've screwed up. If it's moving in the slightest there's no cogging. The amp draw at startup from a sensorless system is high compared to sensored, and why they cog. Going to a battery with a higher C rating or reducing rollout would probably take care of that, but it really isn't a significant issue. Throttle response from sensorless is actually better than sensored. The Tekin RS/RS Pro have dual mode. Hint, hint.
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:06 AM   #1601
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I dunno how many people will agree with that one.
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Throttle response from sensorless is actually better than sensored.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:11 AM   #1602
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Default ++E4FS CS1.9++

Hello everybody I come from Thailand.

I use E4FS modify to Countersteer drift .

I love this E4 very much. Look different every touring car. But cool.

- My E4FS make longer steering crank for more steering angle.

- Change side pulley Front23T Back12T this for CS ratio 1.92.

- Some cut at wheel hub for more steering angle.

Front Pulley (side) use 23T from every nitro car. It's can direct to use.
Hole of pulley 6mm. lock with center pin. And easy to put on middle shaft.

Must shim center shaft mounting about 2mm.
Because big pulley23T and belt it's touch bottom plate.
Must make higher a litle bit.

And back pulley(side) use 12T . When you canfind from Jet racing.
Center hole of pulley it's4mm. You must drill for bigger hole to 6mm.
This pulley lock to center shaft with worm screw.
Must modify but not hard work.

This modify for CS ratio1.92 with standard belt not change every belt in car!
Only two pulley change. Very easy .

Sorry for my english. Many Thai people dont good at language. Me too.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:18 AM   #1603
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Default E4FS

My E4FS counter steer drift.
Attached Thumbnails
The Drift Thread-tmcs_41.jpg   The Drift Thread-tmcs_42.jpg   The Drift Thread-tmcs_43.jpg   The Drift Thread-tmcs_44.jpg  
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:24 PM   #1604
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I'm looking for some baseline setup info for a drift car.

Mi4LP, 2.5mm chassis
Front spool, rear ball diff (I have another spool to throw in)
16lb front, 14lb rear springs
0-1* negative cambera all around (don't remember)
~0* front toe
~0* rear toe
HPI T-Drift slicks on +0mm TE37s
Tekin RS + Tekin 17.5 on blinky profile. Has way, way more power than the tires can put down.

I'm just looking for some basic setup rule-of-thumb things to try. Compared to racing, what kind of setup changes are typical?

In terms of what the car is doing, it understeers like a pig on dusty concrete. It can be tricky to initiate a drift, but once it's in a drift, it's pretty controllable. It was more willing to initiate last time I had the spool in the back with 3* rear toe, just by goosing the throttle a bit, but the toe seemed to be fighting the drift too hard. Now with 0* rear toe and a relatively tight ball diff, it's less willing to initiate, but slides more smoothly and controllably. I can do rings around a man-hole cover pretty well with either setup.

It doesn't seem to transition well, though. There's two man-hole covers about 15' apart, and I try to do figure-8's around them. It doesn't want to transition to drift in the opposite direction. If I'm going fast enough to get it to flick, it usually pushes out onto way too wide of an arc. If I slow down to keep a tighter line, then it doesn't want to transition (understeer), or just flips 180 too fast.

-Mike
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:11 PM   #1605
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swap your springs front to rear, 16lb rear, 14 front, and of course change damper oil accordingly. And if that doesnt fix it go a step softer all around. i use Yokomo swift springs blue front, stock silver rear. What tires are you using?


Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'm looking for some baseline setup info for a drift car.

Mi4LP, 2.5mm chassis
Front spool, rear ball diff (I have another spool to throw in)
16lb front, 14lb rear springs
0-1* negative cambera all around (don't remember)
~0* front toe
~0* rear toe
HPI T-Drift slicks on +0mm TE37s
Tekin RS + Tekin 17.5 on blinky profile. Has way, way more power than the tires can put down.

I'm just looking for some basic setup rule-of-thumb things to try. Compared to racing, what kind of setup changes are typical?

In terms of what the car is doing, it understeers like a pig on dusty concrete. It can be tricky to initiate a drift, but once it's in a drift, it's pretty controllable. It was more willing to initiate last time I had the spool in the back with 3* rear toe, just by goosing the throttle a bit, but the toe seemed to be fighting the drift too hard. Now with 0* rear toe and a relatively tight ball diff, it's less willing to initiate, but slides more smoothly and controllably. I can do rings around a man-hole cover pretty well with either setup.

It doesn't seem to transition well, though. There's two man-hole covers about 15' apart, and I try to do figure-8's around them. It doesn't want to transition to drift in the opposite direction. If I'm going fast enough to get it to flick, it usually pushes out onto way too wide of an arc. If I slow down to keep a tighter line, then it doesn't want to transition (understeer), or just flips 180 too fast.

-Mike
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HPI SPRINT 2 - Wife's
Tamiya F104W
I drift at CHANCE CIRCUIT!!!!! And SPEEDWAYPAL!!!
I live in japan pm me if you need something hard to find, I'm paypal verified!
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