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Old 07-02-2011, 08:23 PM   #1561
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Wondering if there's anythign out there for 1/18 drifting. Tires and diff gears in particular. I have two 18R's sitting here, nobody around here races them anymore.
I have these! They should go on your 18r LMK if you want them!
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:29 PM   #1562
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if your cyclone tc is set up for racing....slap a front one-way, rear spool, and some drift tires on it...you'll be drifitng like a pro lol. I've ran a cyclone for sometime now
Yeah your right! I love my Cyclone here is a shot of it and a lil vid!



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ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-02-2011, 10:29 PM   #1563
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I have a Team losi JRX-S Type R that i want to drift and i need a good set up can someone help me out u can pm me for the answer thanx for the help

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Old 07-03-2011, 06:27 AM   #1564
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I have these! They should go on your 18r LMK if you want them!

I might take those off your hands. Shoot me a PM and LMK what you want for them. Nics vids BTW. Saw the one at Mike's, haven't been there in years.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:10 AM   #1565
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I would have to STRONGLY disagree with this comment. There are many people on these forums with years of experience, and with that personal experience, they may have some biased opinions...

I have raced and drifted 3 different yokomos and 3 different tamiyas. I prefer tamiya. As far as a reccomendation, I reccomend going to your local hobby store and seeing what they carry (replacement parts) and stick within that genre. If youre planning on getting into this seriously and plan on spending $400 on a chassis alone, then go for broke. If you are open for sugguestions, go to a local rc meet and pay attention to how each car handles.
All opinions are biased to some extent, especially local hobby shop since they like to push what they sell. It would be better to get opinions from experienced users then making your own informed decision. That forum will also benefit him since the RC'ers are local in his area.
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:25 PM   #1566
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All opinions are biased to some extent, especially local hobby shop since they like to push what they sell. It would be better to get opinions from experienced users then making your own informed decision. That forum will also benefit him since the RC'ers are local in his area.
I agree, hence my last statement:

"If you are open for sugguestions, go to a local rc meet and pay attention to how each car handles."
What many drifters arent aware is your enviornment can severely impact your car. I live in florida, and we have to run higher d/r's and tires. ABS is horrible in FL because of the humidity and they have a tendency to slide too much.

And I also agree with your statment:"especially local hobby shop since they like to push what they sell" but if youre just "trying it out" then you will break things and it will be easier to get parts that are readily available. If you are willing to go extreme, it can cost as much as $1000, but parts are only available online and 2-3 weeks to recieve. like this:

this was my chassis. with electronics and all hopups, it came out to $975.(thats what i sold it for) It was a Rayspeed converted Yokomo MR4TC SD SSG and The carbon conversion for this chassis was $400. one of 50, and it was the most balanced, and fastest chassis avail at the time. Perfectly smooth transitions at any speed and angle.

If youre looking for a great chassis, check out Tamiya TA05 or TA06. The TA06 is a BRAND new chassis, being only about 2 months old and I am awaiting its arrival on my doorstep myself. Tamiya hasgreat customer service and readily available parts. This is a pict of my old TRF IFS-R
That car as you see performed better for me than the Yokomo, and it was about $400 less built.

My reccomendation is get a Tamiya TA06, drift with HPI Tdrifts on a 7.5 brushless. then If you wish to mod it, start with ball diffs and one ways, then move onto carbon conversions. Remember, the softer the spring the more body roll in the transfer causing the transition out of the transfer to be more aggressive. The Yokomo black springs were best for me.
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:20 AM   #1567
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Just thought i would post this for you guys

New M11X drift spec. Notice the price lower left? Thats about $970!!!!!!
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:51 AM   #1568
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WOW!!! what are they thinking?

What are the drift specs?
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:15 PM   #1569
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WOW!!! what are they thinking?

What are the drift specs?
I dont know i cant read japanese haha unfortunatly. I can tell you its supposed to make engine and servo response faster, i dont know how it does that. It was made with street jam a very popular automotive and RC drifting company here in japan.


EDIT: I heard they're also making a shiny gold plated version as well which I assume will make it almost double in price.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:23 PM   #1570
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Originally Posted by Jdmpurest View Post
I dont know i cant read japanese haha unfortunatly. I can tell you its supposed to make engine and servo response faster, i dont know how it does that. It was made with street jam a very popular automotive and RC drifting company here in japan.


EDIT: I heard they're also making a shiny gold plated version as well which I assume will make it almost double in price.
Oh I see your paying for the "Brand Name". I would assume they at least would offer a larger end point spectrum.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:29 PM   #1571
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Oh I see your paying for the "Brand Name". I would assume they at least would offer a larger end point spectrum.
It is going to have substantial upgrades dont get me wrong, sanwa just went to Street Jam and was like what do you guys want. It doesnt even have the Street Jam name anywhere on it. Dont get my wrong Japanese guys like buying things for the sake of colabo's and big names but this radio will actually come with new tech. Although i still dont know if it will actually be enough to make it worth the price haha.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:50 PM   #1572
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Heres some footage from my local track Chance Circuit. Sorry some of the videos its a little hard to see whats going on but still thought you guys would want to see em.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


This is a really bad ass track right by me built by "Max" Orido and Manabu Suzuki. Its called "The Mountain Pass"

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:06 PM   #1573
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Nice vids. Can't wait to try this out. Servo mounts and antenna mount should be here tomorrow or Monday, woo hoo!

Question for guys running cars originally designed for NiMH batteries. Are y'all making up the weight difference when you run LiPo, or does it matter with drift cars?
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:56 PM   #1574
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Nice vids. Can't wait to try this out. Servo mounts and antenna mount should be here tomorrow or Monday, woo hoo!

Question for guys running cars originally designed for NiMH batteries. Are y'all making up the weight difference when you run LiPo, or does it matter with drift cars?
I don't drift anymore. Never did much, but I know lipo's are lighter than their nickel metal counterparts. It touring car, we used to add weights to the battery side to counteract the weight difference. Weight distribution makes a difference in any car. Not sure how much in drifting though. Is it a big enough issue to throw weight on? I'm not sure. I'll let someone else answer that one.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:00 AM   #1575
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I don't drift anymore. Never did much, but I know lipo's are lighter than their nickel metal counterparts. It touring car, we used to add weights to the battery side to counteract the weight difference. Weight distribution makes a difference in any car. Not sure how much in drifting though. Is it a big enough issue to throw weight on? I'm not sure. I'll let someone else answer that one.
The bodyroll that is created during the transition. Say if the battery is on the left and your servo, motor, esc, is on the right your chassis will droop more on the right side. this can cause wheel hop, chassis flex, and this can cause you to spin out more. with the rc cars, its not as severe as say a real car when youre used to driving with only one person in the car(driver) and when you have a passenger, the car handles and accelerates differently.

With tires like t-drifts, it will be very noticable that your car will favor your heavier side and may act as if your alignment is misaligned. Ususally with tub chassis, this is not as noticable because there is so much chassis flex, but once you step up to carbon conversions, there is a noticable difference.
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