vlozity

iTrader: (7)

gearing should be a balance of torque and speed, do not tune just for speed.
tire choice really depends on what track your running on. in a smooth concrete tracks we use MST Silver dot tires... these has worked best. not sure what others use for carpet, we don't drift on one, sorry.

wheel offset are considered by the full lock you can get and the body you use. what i mean by full lock is you need to make sure there is no binding happening when you turn the car to the left or right, if the tire touches anything on the suspension it is like hitting the brakes and you will spin out.

vlozity

iTrader: (7)

thanks! have fun on your build!

i have not tried those, we use MST and Team Tetsujin super rims for wheels and MST silver dots for smooth concrete tracks.

vlozity

iTrader: (7)

you do not want too much grip in front. drifting is all about balance, front grip is necessary for the car to steer properly and slide when initiated. the rear needs enough grip to move the car forward but also to slide when initiated.

another thing to consider is the tracks, if there is a spec tire, you need to practice with it and use it constantly. using rubber tires may ban you from running on that track as the compound leaves unwanted residue, etc.

vlozity

iTrader: (7)

finally completed my TC-FD resurrection project and installed all the electronics. been tuning her the past weeks and she is drifting really good in slippery tiles, just need to test it outdoors and see how she performs.

here is how she looks now...



sorry for the large images, i use them for desktop wallpapers hehe

vlozity

iTrader: (7)

oh and i made a video of her, just for kicks...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tBJWK0jkUQ

Skeet215

Nice video. If you have any of it drifting that would be awesome. Never seen one of those actually being used lol

vlozity

iTrader: (7)

Thanks!

the closest drift track is outdoors and its been raining here a lot. i am planning on doing a video of it drifting soon. this is an old chassis, 2010 or 2011 release.

Skeet215

So I finally purchased a d4 rwd kit. Waiting for it to arrive. Anything special to look out for when building. This is my first kit btw. Is it pretty straight forward?

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

It's a routine build. Just take your time. I've only built 2 kits so far. Both took around 6-8 total hours. For me it was around an hour a day before work. Afte thst started dropping it getting annoyed with small pieces.
Tires seem to be a major thing for RWD. I still haven't got my D4 to run right because of tires.

Skeet215

Ok cool thx. Im gonna build up over the winter. After its built I'll look for a motor combo. Then a body after that. Slow process lol

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

don't forget the gyro

Skeet215

What is the gyro for and where do I get it?

wareagle84

Gyro are practically necessary for RWD stability. Without one, unless you're among the absolute best, you'll more often than not spin out. RWD are highly unstable without a little help from a gyro.
You can get them at almost any hobby shop. If they sell any type of helicopters, crawlers, drones or airplanes they'll definitely have them.

vlozity

iTrader: (7)

check this vide out. it does not explain fully in words but shows what a gyro does to give stability...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBuQSZVOxac

multi-bash

iTrader: (9)

No special tricks building the d4 RWD, except for one. The first editions of the kit had insane amounts of KPI. Bad bad bad geometry. Later kits have a revised front knuckle with less KPI. If your kit has the later, build it with low KPI setting. If the former, get new knuckles with low or zero KPI (and a longer turnbuckle).

I also flipped the front upper arm bulkheads to get lower caster (so I can run less toe, so I get more leading wheel contact patch).

Tamiya TRF shocks are always a good upgrade. I run TRF shaft/cylinder/orings with the D4 pink bits and top ball cup thingy.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDe2pdpKmu_/