Platinum Lipo
06-04-2007, 10:08 AM
#1111
We are getting close to releasing final specs. I would not start a thread until these are public as I am sure yet another speculation thread is not really needed.
06-04-2007, 11:40 AM
#1112
Tech Master
With Team Orion setting the standards for lipo dimensions and electrical connections, it seems there is now a greater opportunity for RC car makers like Associated, Losi, Tamiya, XRay, etc to provide quick-change battery mechanisms in their car designs. Electric main events could be longer, comparable to gas main events. I think this would be popular, especially with the hardcore racer types who are early adopters of lipo. Obviously it would benefit Team Orion by selling more lipos!
Is this something that Team Orion is actively promoting, with sample designs, etc?
Perhaps Kyosho can lead the way in this area with their car designs?
--mark
Is this something that Team Orion is actively promoting, with sample designs, etc?
Perhaps Kyosho can lead the way in this area with their car designs?
--mark
06-04-2007, 12:28 PM
#1113
Rick - Mr. Black...Peak/Orion peeps.
Can I use this charger with the Carbon and/or Power - Platinum Edition Lipos? The helicopter crowd I know say that is one of the best Lipo balancer/chargers they know of so I'm interested in using it.
http://www.fmadirect.com/products.htm?cat=45&nid=4
Can I use this charger with the Carbon and/or Power - Platinum Edition Lipos? The helicopter crowd I know say that is one of the best Lipo balancer/chargers they know of so I'm interested in using it.
http://www.fmadirect.com/products.htm?cat=45&nid=4
06-04-2007, 12:44 PM
#1114
Rick - Mr. Black...Peak/Orion peeps.
Can I use this charger with the Carbon and/or Power - Platinum Edition Lipos? The helicopter crowd I know say that is one of the best Lipo balancer/chargers they know of so I'm interested in using it.
http://www.fmadirect.com/products.htm?cat=45&nid=4
Can I use this charger with the Carbon and/or Power - Platinum Edition Lipos? The helicopter crowd I know say that is one of the best Lipo balancer/chargers they know of so I'm interested in using it.
http://www.fmadirect.com/products.htm?cat=45&nid=4
I would ask FMA as they may even provide the proper adapter neeeded.
06-09-2007, 07:22 AM
#1116
I didn't go back through and read every post but I have 2 small problems.
I just bought a new 4800 Orion LiPo and also a new Novak Smart Stop and did everything as instructions stated.
First problem is, When I charge my LiPo on my Advantage charger, it charged up til 8.39 volts and then slowly started backing off charge amps on it's own then 56 minutes later, it said it was peaked. I'd assume that it goes up to 8.4 volts and stops, correct? The mAh didn't even get close to 4800. I searched a little but found nothing to tell me what numbers to look for. I think it went to 3 thousand and something and that's where it peaked.
Second problem, after the pack was charged, I set the Smart Stop up, as stated on the instructions with no problem. I hooked the LiPo up in the car and when you give it throttle, it stutters really bad. Sometimes it does it when you roll in the throttle. Is it the same "cogging" that happens in my mamba on my 18T? Sorry about the not descibing it well but I hope you see my point. I'm also running a Novak 5.5 BL system on a TC3. I never had the stuttering issue before the LiPo and Smart Stop. Would setting up the Smart Stop with a 4200IB make a difference? Thanks for any and all help.
Heath
I just bought a new 4800 Orion LiPo and also a new Novak Smart Stop and did everything as instructions stated.
First problem is, When I charge my LiPo on my Advantage charger, it charged up til 8.39 volts and then slowly started backing off charge amps on it's own then 56 minutes later, it said it was peaked. I'd assume that it goes up to 8.4 volts and stops, correct? The mAh didn't even get close to 4800. I searched a little but found nothing to tell me what numbers to look for. I think it went to 3 thousand and something and that's where it peaked.
Second problem, after the pack was charged, I set the Smart Stop up, as stated on the instructions with no problem. I hooked the LiPo up in the car and when you give it throttle, it stutters really bad. Sometimes it does it when you roll in the throttle. Is it the same "cogging" that happens in my mamba on my 18T? Sorry about the not descibing it well but I hope you see my point. I'm also running a Novak 5.5 BL system on a TC3. I never had the stuttering issue before the LiPo and Smart Stop. Would setting up the Smart Stop with a 4200IB make a difference? Thanks for any and all help.
Heath
06-09-2007, 09:05 AM
#1117
I'm not sure about the stuttering issue with the SmartStop, someone else will have to comment on that. You may consider trying it without the SmartStop to see if you have the same problem, to see if that's what's causing the trouble. What ESC are you using?
The other part is perfectly normal, though. LiPos charge different than NiMH. You'll see it start to back off the amperage as it reaches 8.4V and eventually shut off. This is exactly how it's supposed to work. It didn't take a "full" charge because they've got some charge in them from the factory already. Don't worry about if it's full of half-full, with LiPo, just charge until it shuts off and run. Just be mindful of pulling it off before it dumps, you don't want to discharge them too far. :-)
The other part is perfectly normal, though. LiPos charge different than NiMH. You'll see it start to back off the amperage as it reaches 8.4V and eventually shut off. This is exactly how it's supposed to work. It didn't take a "full" charge because they've got some charge in them from the factory already. Don't worry about if it's full of half-full, with LiPo, just charge until it shuts off and run. Just be mindful of pulling it off before it dumps, you don't want to discharge them too far. :-)
I didn't go back through and read every post but I have 2 small problems.
I just bought a new 4800 Orion LiPo and also a new Novak Smart Stop and did everything as instructions stated.
First problem is, When I charge my LiPo on my Advantage charger, it charged up til 8.39 volts and then slowly started backing off charge amps on it's own then 56 minutes later, it said it was peaked. I'd assume that it goes up to 8.4 volts and stops, correct? The mAh didn't even get close to 4800. I searched a little but found nothing to tell me what numbers to look for. I think it went to 3 thousand and something and that's where it peaked.
Second problem, after the pack was charged, I set the Smart Stop up, as stated on the instructions with no problem. I hooked the LiPo up in the car and when you give it throttle, it stutters really bad. Sometimes it does it when you roll in the throttle. Is it the same "cogging" that happens in my mamba on my 18T? Sorry about the not descibing it well but I hope you see my point. I'm also running a Novak 5.5 BL system on a TC3. I never had the stuttering issue before the LiPo and Smart Stop. Would setting up the Smart Stop with a 4200IB make a difference? Thanks for any and all help.
Heath
I just bought a new 4800 Orion LiPo and also a new Novak Smart Stop and did everything as instructions stated.
First problem is, When I charge my LiPo on my Advantage charger, it charged up til 8.39 volts and then slowly started backing off charge amps on it's own then 56 minutes later, it said it was peaked. I'd assume that it goes up to 8.4 volts and stops, correct? The mAh didn't even get close to 4800. I searched a little but found nothing to tell me what numbers to look for. I think it went to 3 thousand and something and that's where it peaked.
Second problem, after the pack was charged, I set the Smart Stop up, as stated on the instructions with no problem. I hooked the LiPo up in the car and when you give it throttle, it stutters really bad. Sometimes it does it when you roll in the throttle. Is it the same "cogging" that happens in my mamba on my 18T? Sorry about the not descibing it well but I hope you see my point. I'm also running a Novak 5.5 BL system on a TC3. I never had the stuttering issue before the LiPo and Smart Stop. Would setting up the Smart Stop with a 4200IB make a difference? Thanks for any and all help.
Heath
06-09-2007, 09:31 AM
#1118
Thanks for the input, syndrome. I figured it went to 8.4v and shut off.
I'm using the GTB that came with the 5.5.
I tried it with the LiPo and it studders and with a IB4200 it doesn't. I'll try at the track without the Smart Stop. I know not to let it get down to a certain voltage. After each race, I'll just charge the pack to be safe. Been doing this for 20 years and this LiPo stuff is different. Maybe I need to address this to Novak instead of Orion.
Thanks again for the help so far.
I'm using the GTB that came with the 5.5.
I tried it with the LiPo and it studders and with a IB4200 it doesn't. I'll try at the track without the Smart Stop. I know not to let it get down to a certain voltage. After each race, I'll just charge the pack to be safe. Been doing this for 20 years and this LiPo stuff is different. Maybe I need to address this to Novak instead of Orion.
Thanks again for the help so far.
06-09-2007, 11:18 AM
#1119
Yea, the LiPo thing is different, but it's definitely not hard. If anything, it's easier once you get your head around how it all works.
I'd try the LiPo w/o the cutoff and see if the problem persists. If not, you can likely isolate that as the issue, and give Novak's customer service a ring.
I've been running LiPo with a GTB for about 9 months now without a cutoff and haven't had any trouble. I just charge the battery (4800) after a 5 minute race, and it usually only takes 1500-2000 mAh. I hear it's very apparent when it's time to pull the car off if you run it until the battery is drained, as long as you pay attention. I've never gone that far, I just play it safe and keep them charged between races.
I'd try the LiPo w/o the cutoff and see if the problem persists. If not, you can likely isolate that as the issue, and give Novak's customer service a ring.
I've been running LiPo with a GTB for about 9 months now without a cutoff and haven't had any trouble. I just charge the battery (4800) after a 5 minute race, and it usually only takes 1500-2000 mAh. I hear it's very apparent when it's time to pull the car off if you run it until the battery is drained, as long as you pay attention. I've never gone that far, I just play it safe and keep them charged between races.
Thanks for the input, syndrome. I figured it went to 8.4v and shut off.
I'm using the GTB that came with the 5.5.
I tried it with the LiPo and it studders and with a IB4200 it doesn't. I'll try at the track without the Smart Stop. I know not to let it get down to a certain voltage. After each race, I'll just charge the pack to be safe. Been doing this for 20 years and this LiPo stuff is different. Maybe I need to address this to Novak instead of Orion.
Thanks again for the help so far.
I'm using the GTB that came with the 5.5.
I tried it with the LiPo and it studders and with a IB4200 it doesn't. I'll try at the track without the Smart Stop. I know not to let it get down to a certain voltage. After each race, I'll just charge the pack to be safe. Been doing this for 20 years and this LiPo stuff is different. Maybe I need to address this to Novak instead of Orion.
Thanks again for the help so far.
06-10-2007, 05:29 AM
#1121
Yea, the LiPo thing is different, but it's definitely not hard. If anything, it's easier once you get your head around how it all works.
I'd try the LiPo w/o the cutoff and see if the problem persists. If not, you can likely isolate that as the issue, and give Novak's customer service a ring.
I've been running LiPo with a GTB for about 9 months now without a cutoff and haven't had any trouble. I just charge the battery (4800) after a 5 minute race, and it usually only takes 1500-2000 mAh. I hear it's very apparent when it's time to pull the car off if you run it until the battery is drained, as long as you pay attention. I've never gone that far, I just play it safe and keep them charged between races.
I'd try the LiPo w/o the cutoff and see if the problem persists. If not, you can likely isolate that as the issue, and give Novak's customer service a ring.
I've been running LiPo with a GTB for about 9 months now without a cutoff and haven't had any trouble. I just charge the battery (4800) after a 5 minute race, and it usually only takes 1500-2000 mAh. I hear it's very apparent when it's time to pull the car off if you run it until the battery is drained, as long as you pay attention. I've never gone that far, I just play it safe and keep them charged between races.
06-10-2007, 05:53 AM
#1122
Could it be that one cut off is interfering with the other cut off?
I just got hold of a Trakpower LiPo 4900 yesterday, had a brief track run and it felt quicker.
MotoGP just finished on TV, so now I'm off to do back to back at the track between TO 4800 and Trakpower 4900.
06-10-2007, 09:32 AM
#1123
Does your Novak come with the LiPo cut off? I know mine does.
Could it be that one cut off is interfering with the other cut off?
I just got hold of a Trakpower LiPo 4900 yesterday, had a brief track run and it felt quicker.
MotoGP just finished on TV, so now I'm off to do back to back at the track between TO 4800 and Trakpower 4900.
Could it be that one cut off is interfering with the other cut off?
I just got hold of a Trakpower LiPo 4900 yesterday, had a brief track run and it felt quicker.
MotoGP just finished on TV, so now I'm off to do back to back at the track between TO 4800 and Trakpower 4900.
06-10-2007, 11:20 AM
#1124
TrakPower says their batteries are good in racing for 100 cycles, and practice for 200. That's lower than the figures we see for the Orion/Kokam batteries, but I believe TP uses Enerland which is still a respected brand. Definitely let us know how the two compare on the track.