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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Serpent Project 4-X
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Introduction
This is a wiki page for the new and very interesting concept 4-X from Serpent. This is wiki is meant to develop and grow as more is understood about the car.

Serpent's Product Page - http://www.serpent.com/product/400030
The 4-X Development Story - Here

Manual - Here

Spring Chart
SOFTEST
  • 401705 Spring white C4.4 4X (2)
  • 401706 Spring yellow C4.9 4X (2)
  • 401707 Spring orange C5.5 4X (2) = kit
  • 401708 Spring red C6.3 4X (2)
  • 401709 Spring pink C6.9 4X (2)
  • 401710 Spring blue C7.6 4X (2)
  • 401711 Spring purple C8.4 4X (2) = kit
  • 401712 Spring greenC9.5 4X (2)
  • 401713 Spring grey C10.9 4X (2)
  • 401714 Spring black C12 4X (2)
HARDEST

Build Tips

RCBuilds.net Build, tip guide and youtube video - http://www.rcbuilds.net/builds/onroa...nt-project-4x/
Heave + Roll Damper Build Tips
Pivot Ball Nut Tip

Setups



Setup Tips

Ride Height Adjustment
Adjusting tweak with roll damper
Usage of washer on lower arm
Tuning ARS


Option Parts List


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Old 11-06-2016, 06:34 PM   #61
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You really only need to remove the 2 bottom screws and remove 1 of the upper arm pins and you can pop the diff right out in about 2 minutes.
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:59 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins sr View Post
You really only need to remove the 2 bottom screws and remove 1 of the upper arm pins and you can pop the diff right out in about 2 minutes.
Hey Senior
Two minutes to take the diff out...Hmmmm
mostly TC out there take 30 sec or less...just giving you a hard times
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:53 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins sr View Post
You really only need to remove the 2 bottom screws and remove 1 of the upper arm pins and you can pop the diff right out in about 2 minutes.
I usually remove both of the upper arm pins

OVA - how about a belt change on a "normal" TC?
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:30 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by WagwanBumba View Post
I usually remove both of the upper arm pins

OVA - how about a belt change on a "normal" TC?
Funny..I don't own normal TC ,mine is the A700 shaft ,A800 only have one screw the hold the belt pulley...."Get some of the"
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:30 AM   #65
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Does anyone try it on asphalt yet? low grip.... any setup?
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Old 11-15-2016, 12:54 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff jenkins sr View Post
You really only need to remove the 2 bottom screws and remove 1 of the upper arm pins and you can pop the diff right out in about 2 minutes.
There will come some new bits that will make it a bit easier and faster.
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:20 PM   #67
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Can someone explain me how to raise the car...
Connecting rods are those that are connectes to the upper arm correct?
I already put a 1mm spacer on the heave damper (main shock), on the rear I do not have that problem but on the forward is too low... on the H (high) position I got 7mm height... thanks for your support....
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:25 PM   #68
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Can someone explain me how to raise the car...
Connecting rods are those that are connectes to the upper arm correct?
I already put a 1mm spacer on the heave damper (main shock), on the rear I do not have that problem but on the forward is too low... on the H (high) position I got 7mm height... thanks for your support....
So you've put a spacer on the front heave shock? You could shorten the connecting turnbuckles to the upper arm.
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:54 AM   #69
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So you've put a spacer on the front heave shock? You could shorten the connecting turnbuckles to the upper arm.
Thanks that works!
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Old 11-17-2016, 06:14 AM   #70
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This is such a great car for me and so I've decided to put a lot of work into getting a good set up. I mainly race on CRC black carpet in the US in the 17.5 class. I finally got to a really good setup that works on very high grip conditions, it's attached. Let me know how it works for you.
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:15 PM   #71
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Whooa I'm a confused just looking at the setup I guess till I get my car and play with it will enlighten me how to work with the car...

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This is such a great car for me and so I've decided to put a lot of work into getting a good set up. I mainly race on CRC black carpet in the US in the 17.5 class. I finally got to a really good setup that works on very high grip conditions, it's attached. Let me know how it works for you.
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Old 11-17-2016, 11:49 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BardSmith View Post
This is such a great car for me and so I've decided to put a lot of work into getting a good set up. I mainly race on CRC black carpet in the US in the 17.5 class. I finally got to a really good setup that works on very high grip conditions, it's attached. Let me know how it works for you.
Does the removal of the brace not affect the torsional flex of the car?

I was thinking of doing the same, but using loads of washers to replace the brace
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:30 AM   #73
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You can add two 3mm shims (4 total) to compensate or install the top deck. I actually chose to do both because I want to get it as stiff as possible.
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Last edited by BardSmith; 11-18-2016 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 11-18-2016, 01:10 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BardSmith View Post
This is such a great car for me and so I've decided to put a lot of work into getting a good set up. I mainly race on CRC black carpet in the US in the 17.5 class. I finally got to a really good setup that works on very high grip conditions, it's attached. Let me know how it works for you.
What´s the reason for very high roll centers? I would think lower roll centers would be better for high grip situations.
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Old 11-18-2016, 03:21 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BardSmith View Post
This is such a great car for me and so I've decided to put a lot of work into getting a good set up. I mainly race on CRC black carpet in the US in the 17.5 class. I finally got to a really good setup that works on very high grip conditions, it's attached. Let me know how it works for you.
Is your droop settings orh or measured like the setup sheet?
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