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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Serpent Project 4-X
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Introduction
This is a wiki page for the new and very interesting concept 4-X from Serpent. This is wiki is meant to develop and grow as more is understood about the car.

Serpent's Product Page - http://www.serpent.com/product/400030
The 4-X Development Story - Here

Manual - Here

Spring Chart
SOFTEST
  • 401705 Spring white C4.4 4X (2)
  • 401706 Spring yellow C4.9 4X (2)
  • 401707 Spring orange C5.5 4X (2) = kit
  • 401708 Spring red C6.3 4X (2)
  • 401709 Spring pink C6.9 4X (2)
  • 401710 Spring blue C7.6 4X (2)
  • 401711 Spring purple C8.4 4X (2) = kit
  • 401712 Spring greenC9.5 4X (2)
  • 401713 Spring grey C10.9 4X (2)
  • 401714 Spring black C12 4X (2)
HARDEST

Build Tips

RCBuilds.net Build, tip guide and youtube video - http://www.rcbuilds.net/builds/onroa...nt-project-4x/
Heave + Roll Damper Build Tips
Pivot Ball Nut Tip

Setups



Setup Tips

Ride Height Adjustment
Adjusting tweak with roll damper
Usage of washer on lower arm
Tuning ARS


Option Parts List


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Old 07-09-2017, 03:51 PM   #301
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I mean, please don't update the same parts two, three or four times keeping the same reference number every 2 weeks... And that's a lot of cancelled parts which are listed by shops... :-(

If so, it meants that the servo plate will have to go under the belt and the servo just next after... The included bumper support already accept two positions for front body posts.

I've also found something interesting about the steering arms... The ones in my kit are very different, one is 6.5mm thick with the bearings and the other one is 7.2mm thick. There is also a difference in the thickness of the arm itself... Nothing that some shims can solve by the way... Has anybody the same in his kit?
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Old 07-10-2017, 04:29 PM   #302
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
I mean, please don't update the same parts two, three or four times keeping the same reference number every 2 weeks... And that's a lot of cancelled parts which are listed by shops... :-(

If so, it meants that the servo plate will have to go under the belt and the servo just next after... The included bumper support already accept two positions for front body posts.

I've also found something interesting about the steering arms... The ones in my kit are very different, one is 6.5mm thick with the bearings and the other one is 7.2mm thick. There is also a difference in the thickness of the arm itself... Nothing that some shims can solve by the way... Has anybody the same in his kit?
You're talking about steering levers right? Ones that attach to steering rack? As far as I recall they are same.

Re front bumper support, the introduction in Serpent website is not very clear. But what they are trying to say, I think, is the lateral end of the plate touches the sides of hood that slant downward so that the body is sort of lifted in the front end. Am I right guys? If so, With what bodies does it happen? Or with what bodies does it not happen? I built mine a week ago and haven't even fit any body yet. If I cut the lateral holes, would that be the same as new part?
I was not going to buy any upgrades till I fully test out the stock set up car but it seems that everybody is in consensus that the RRS links, top deck, short stiffener and new pushrod set are musts. And 0 hole roll damper piston too.. Sigh...
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Old 07-10-2017, 06:50 PM   #303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
You're talking about steering levers right? Ones that attach to steering rack? As far as I recall they are same.

Re front bumper support, the introduction in Serpent website is not very clear. But what they are trying to say, I think, is the lateral end of the plate touches the sides of hood that slant downward so that the body is sort of lifted in the front end. Am I right guys? If so, With what bodies does it happen? Or with what bodies does it not happen? I built mine a week ago and haven't even fit any body yet. If I cut the lateral holes, would that be the same as new part?
I was not going to buy any upgrades till I fully test out the stock set up car but it seems that everybody is in consensus that the RRS links, top deck, short stiffener and new pushrod set are musts. And 0 hole roll damper piston too.. Sigh...
The Montech IS200 for example is a problem without the narrow front body mount plate. The front of the body sits wrong on the wide plate. The 0-hole pistons came in my kit (0 hole, 1 hole and 2 hole were all included).
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Old 07-10-2017, 08:15 PM   #304
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The Montech IS200 for example is a problem without the narrow front body mount plate. The front of the body sits wrong on the wide plate. The 0-hole pistons came in my kit (0 hole, 1 hole and 2 hole were all included).
Thanks Dan. And my kit also came w different pistons too. I'll just wait till I run my car before i make any change. Currently it is at default setting.
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Old 07-11-2017, 01:26 AM   #305
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Yup, I was talking about the levers. I had the "problem" with the front body posts as I decided to use the widest position, but it is not really a problem, the body sits well... huh...

The 0-hole piston for the roll damper is great, as the 2-holes piston in the heave damper. I'm now running Victor's setup from Madrid ETS, the last one with the old parts :-)

I will switch to a newer one once my parts are there.

Could somebody explain how I should use the track width?
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:10 AM   #306
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Thanks Dan. And my kit also came w different pistons too. I'll just wait till I run my car before i make any change. Currently it is at default setting.
If you don't have the 0-hole pistons just run the 1-hole with 10k-12k oil instead. Trust me though it makes a massive difference over the kit setting.
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:35 AM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airwave View Post

Could somebody explain how I should use the track width?
The higher the grip, the wider you should run the car, and vice versa. Wider slows things down a bit, so easier to drive and keeps the car from traction rolling as easily. Narrower creates more grip and make the car more reactive.
The wider the gap front to rear I've found makes the car more stable under braking and has more on power steering.

I measure how Felix showed me from the center of the chassis to the outer hub with the car upside down. This is consistent and means you don't need a full 8" caliper. You can also measure from the slot in the chassis made for room for the rocker also, it tends to be easier to measure consistently side to side.

Code:
Lower grip:
Rear: 183 overall/74 from center
Front: 185 overall/75 from center

Higher grip:
Rear: 186/75.5mm from center
Front: 187/76mm from center

center       rocker
74   = 183 = 52.5
74.5 = 184 = 53
75   = 185 = 53.5
75.5 = 186 = 54
76   = 187 = 54.5
76.5 = 188 = 55
77   = 189 = 55.5
Serpent Project 4-X-2017-07-09-16.39.22.jpg
Serpent Project 4-X-2017-07-09-16.39.51.jpg

HTH,
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Last edited by erchn; 07-11-2017 at 09:08 AM. Reason: A word
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:48 PM   #308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
If you don't have the 0-hole pistons just run the 1-hole with 10k-12k oil instead. Trust me though it makes a massive difference over the kit setting.
Trust me. I'll try the 0 hole. But I am type of guy who wants to have first hand experience. I will try kit set up and then go from there.
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:58 AM   #309
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Stupid question here... Where do you find 2500cst oil?

I cannot find a brand with 2500... Are you simply mixing 2000 and 3000, 50%-50% ?
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Old 07-13-2017, 03:34 AM   #310
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Desoto had some 2500 I forgot the brand they carry.
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Old 07-13-2017, 03:37 AM   #311
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Trust me. I'll try the 0 hole. But I am type of guy who wants to have first hand experience. I will try kit set up and then go from there.
Run it some fast laps kit setup and watch the body roll, check the chassis for scrub as well. Then keep the setup the same and throw 10k-12k in the roll dampers and do it again. You'll see what the fellas are talking about. Feels much better. I run one hole pistons and 10k and it works great.
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:10 AM   #312
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Quote:
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Stupid question here... Where do you find 2500cst oil?

I cannot find a brand with 2500... Are you simply mixing 2000 and 3000, 50%-50% ?
Arrowmax
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:15 AM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Run it some fast laps kit setup and watch the body roll, check the chassis for scrub as well. Then keep the setup the same and throw 10k-12k in the roll dampers and do it again. You'll see what the fellas are talking about. Feels much better. I run one hole pistons and 10k and it works great.
Yeah that's what I'm planning to do. But our local track decided to close this weekend due to over 100F heat
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:05 PM   #314
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And also I noticed that ppl like a tad bit higher roll center on inner pin on the front/rear upper arms. Maybe they like it because of dynamic camber gain? I was thinking of trying that too but the heat...
and the center stiffener with both H blocks front and rear, do they make the car too stiff? Is that why some of you guys cut the center, remove the H's and put upper deck?
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:31 AM   #315
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And also I noticed that ppl like a tad bit higher roll center on inner pin on the front/rear upper arms. Maybe they like it because of dynamic camber gain? I was thinking of trying that too but the heat...
and the center stiffener with both H blocks front and rear, do they make the car too stiff? Is that why some of you guys cut the center, remove the H's and put upper deck?
Yes, the upper arm roll center shims down to 2mm in the rear makes a big difference to rear traction. We cut the center stifferner and removed the H brackets front and rear when using the Vertical Top Deck as with them installed the car is too stiff. I didnt cut my center stiffener I use the new short front stiffener instead so Ive kept the kit center stiffener intact in case its needed later.

I've now got the VTD on the car, 2mm shims in the rear, linear pullrods, short RRS links, H brackets removed, the alu front stiffener plate (under the steering rack), hard roll dampening and WOW the car is just awesome.
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