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Old 05-23-2016, 11:16 AM   #16
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You are welcome, good luck with the project. I built a TT02 last winter, and those links helped a lot.
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:24 PM   #17
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That kit would help, definitely. I have some of those parts on my TT02.
fUNKd1, -do you race your TT02? -usgt or what?
I am building one now, wasn't planning on racing it. ...i guess I could run it in a 21.5 usgt class if I wanted ..yet curious how your does...


As for 3s lipo and 105t ...how do the plastic diff gears hold up in the TT02 w/ that much power? ...I'd be worried about stripping the gears from rpm and/or heat. Not a problem? I overpowered a TA RC18r (1/18th) a few years back ...ended up stripping all the gears ..so lowered the power and not a problem since (it has plastic diff gears).


by the way, -all good advice your providing here.
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Old 05-23-2016, 05:10 PM   #18
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Thx Eric.
I built a TT02D as a rally car for bashing. I got it as parts from ewippler who I think buys kits for their bodies and then sells all the chassis parts nice and cheap.

It has a Trackstar 21.5 in it. Qatmix (thercracer.com) built his with a 17.5 and it was fine. So I think 13.5 would be OK. 10.5 might be too far.

The cool thing about the TT02 is that you can build it with different options for wheelbase, track, and ride height. I built mine with a standard TC wheelbase, 185 mm track, and high ride height.

thercracer.com shows what parts to use to allow standard 64p or 48p spurs and get a nice low FDR for lower revving motors like 21.5. You might have to modify the gear cover a bit, but you can get down to 3.0 FDR if you need it.

I used the Tamiya spur gear adapter and metal suspension balls, but everything else I got was Yeah Racing blue alloy stuff... drive shaft, steering linkage, knuckles, rear hub carriers (2 deg toe in).

The single biggest thing that helped the car was the front diff oil. I think I actually have 300k in mine. The diffs are not designed for oil, but 300k is so thick that it won't leak. The car wanted to spin out constantly on-throttle until I added the oil.

It's still not anywhere near as precise as a race TC chassis, but it goes OK. Mostly it's very durable and has a sealed gearbox which makes it great for blasting through dirt, leaves, jumping curbs, etc.
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Old 05-23-2016, 05:12 PM   #19
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Oh yeah I forgot, I added the Tamiya CVA dampers. Friction shocks are not going to cut it!!!
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Old 05-23-2016, 05:13 PM   #20
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In retrospect, I should have just bought an XV-01, but it was a fun project.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:28 AM   #21
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funked1,

Yes, I just purchased my TT02 for the same reason as you. I realized I have like 10 cars but they are all for racing ...I don't have anything I can just bash w/ ...i liked the price and closed diff of the TT02 just like you. I opted for the TT02D type S model, l ..sold the drift wheels and tires for $20 and kept all the S parts. I'll be setting it up as a basher/street car not a drifter. I too got a few of the necessary upgrades: Tamiya Aluminum motor mount (plastic motor mount just didn't see right to me), Yeah racing steering set and Yeah racing CV joints. The S comes w/ aluminum drive shaft, metal cup joints, etc...

Mine came w/ oil filled shocks, not the cheap friction dampers. The oil filled seem pretty good actually, -almost as good as aluminum shocks. Only thing is they aren't threaded so I don't have the precision ...but for bashing may not be a big deal.
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:03 AM   #22
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Dear Funked1, can you please refer me to an oil company\model please?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:38 PM   #23
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This will work: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cSt_50ml_.html
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:40 PM   #24
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Funked1, earlier you recommended me to use the 500K, does the Kyosho 500K CST is good enough or its too much?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...p453217?v=6935
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eR1c View Post
funked1,

Yes, I just purchased my TT02 for the same reason as you. I realized I have like 10 cars but they are all for racing ...I don't have anything I can just bash w/ ...i liked the price and closed diff of the TT02 just like you. I opted for the TT02D type S model, l ..sold the drift wheels and tires for $20 and kept all the S parts. I'll be setting it up as a basher/street car not a drifter. I too got a few of the necessary upgrades: Tamiya Aluminum motor mount (plastic motor mount just didn't see right to me), Yeah racing steering set and Yeah racing CV joints. The S comes w/ aluminum drive shaft, metal cup joints, etc...

Mine came w/ oil filled shocks, not the cheap friction dampers. The oil filled seem pretty good actually, -almost as good as aluminum shocks. Only thing is they aren't threaded so I don't have the precision ...but for bashing may not be a big deal.
Sounds good. Did you use the kit motor? The CVA shocks are just fine despite the lack of threads. You can just use the spacers. You can't really use them to do corner weights / tweak, but they are fine for getting the ride height dialed in.
I broke a front upright on mine when I took it on the track at Speedworld. It's a poorly designed part, so I got the Yeah Racing aluminum ones and haven't had any problems.
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrAzYoNi View Post
Funked1, earlier you recommended me to use the 500K, does the Kyosho 500K CST is good enough or its too much?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...p453217?v=6935
500k is fine too. Qatmix says anything above 300k will work without leaking.
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:12 PM   #27
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whats the best engine for big power / top speed
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:11 PM   #28
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Small Block Chevy
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:16 PM   #29
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But seriously, speed run discussion is here: Speed Run Electric (All Classes Welcomed)
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:21 PM   #30
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CrAzYoNi,
These are the shocks Eric and I are talking about: http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53619-5...er-p-7181.html

I'm assuming your kit is Volkswagen Scirocco GT24 - TT01E ITEM# 58508, which has friction shocks with no oil. The 53619 shocks will work a lot better with all the power you are adding to the car.
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