bennieblanco

iTrader: (6)

Hey folks,

I'm new to the 1/10th onroad world. Have spent much of my time running 1/5th scale FGs etc.

Can you guys recommend a good ESC, motor and servo for a 1/10th scale pan car?

I can spend $600 for all three of that helps narrow down the choices.

I just purchased the VBC Lightning 10 and would like to have the electronics ready when the kit arrives.

Thanks.

phatboislim

iTrader: (26)

currently i'm running hobbywing 1s esc, 13.5 team scream and a futaba servo...i have zero issues with running these w/ my WGT

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

it all depend whether you'll ride the car in stock (blinky) or in "open" mode esc. And also the tires you plan to use (foam or rubber). Is your car set at 200mm version or 235mm (wide)?

If rubber, nothing lower than 17.5t motor, if you go lower, I'm afraid rubber tires couldn't handle such power without spinning,...

If foam, you can use any turn motor in blinky or open esc. If your car is 200mm wide, I'd recomand nothing lower than 6.5t on outdoor track (2S), if it's the 235mm version you'll get, you can go up to 3.5t (2S) if your track suit that kind of motor (long straights,...). In 235mm, we use between 4t and 6t motors depending on the track.

If your plan is to run the car in 1S battery, it depends again on your track (long/short, outdoor/indoor,...).

For 2S, you can pick any of the good esc generally seen on 1/10 touring cars (HW V3.1 (or the new XR10 Pro), LRP Flow Worksteam, Team Orion R10.1 Pro,...).

For the motor, if you don't run in spec class, try to match the brand of the esc and the brand of the motor. If you"ll run in spec class, all the good motor for spec touring or spec 1/12 will suit.

For the servo, you can pick some of the best 1/12 servos like the KoPropo Rsx12 or the PDS-951ICS, Futaba BLS651,...Sanwa SRG dedicated 1/12 servo can be a bit weak if you want to use your car outdoor with big motor.
The advantage over 1/10 specific servo is the wheigth (almost 2 times heavyer than 1/12 servo).

If you have any question, feel free to ask

Regards,
G-rem

bennieblanco

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, G-rem. This is extremely helpful information. I do have a few questions.

What is the difference between stock mode vs. open mode on the ESC?

In term of the car's width, I haven't received it yet but it sounds like I can set the VBC Lightning 10 to either 200mm or 235mm?

What does 3.5t or 6.5t mean? It looks like the lower the number the faster the motor?

I intend to run 2s on an indoor track. Not sure of the dimensions of the track though.

Regarding servos, are most of the professional drivers using 1/12 for the weight advantage?

Will this ESC and Motor work? I'd select the 6.5t option. http://www.hobbywingdirect.com/produ...v3-1-esc-combo

Thanks again,

Ben

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Hi Ben,

the difference between "stock mode" and "open mode" esc is simple: by stock mode, I mean "blinky" mode, which is a way to run esc without any turbo or boost, just like we run in some touring spec class. Open mode means the esc is free, so you can use turbo, boost,...

Regarding the width of the car, there are 2 versions of the Ligthning10: 200mm and 235mm. When you bought the car, if it wasn't specifically mentionned "Ligthning10 235mm", you'll get the 200mm version. But by buying some specific parts from the 235mm version (like pod parts and front end plate, which are wider), you will be able to set your car whether at 200mm or at 235mm.

For your specific use (indoor track), the 200mm would suit best. 235mm cars are generally run on big outdoor tracks with low turn motors and 2S (maximum speed!)

Regarding the motor, 3.5t or 6.5t refers to the motor's number of turns. The lower the number, the more powerfull and fast the motor.

If you intend to run 2S on an indoor track (carpet or asphalt?), I advise you to pick a 13.5t motor. As pan cars are light, the power ratio compared to a 1/10 touring car is different. And a 6.5t in 2S is already very (if not too much) powerfull for indoor (I run in 2S with 5.0t motor on big and fast outdoor asphalt track, in comparison). A 13.5t (or even a 17.5t) motor will be smoother and if you lack some power or top speed, you could always set the turbo and/or the boost on the ESC.

Just as an example, here in Europe we have a WGT category (200mm pan car, indoor carpet track) and the rules for the electronic is whether 1S - 10.5t motor or 2S - 17.5t motor.

For the servo, I don't know very well what WGT pro drivers use most in the USA, but here in Europe, most Pro10 drivers (235mm pan car) use 1/12 servo for wheight reason. In Pro10, you already have such a good steering that you don't need the quickest and the most powerfull servo.
For example, I ran last year my Pro10 on big outdoor asphalt track (2S - 5.5t motor) with a Futaba BLS651 servo. This year, I put a KO Propo PDS-951ICS in my Pro10 and it works like a charm. Now, if you want to re-use your servo in a 1/10 touring car or else, it could be a better choice to pick a 1/10 low profile servo.

Finally, regarding your esc/motor combo choice, it is a very good one! I personally use a HobbyWing V3.1 esc since 2 years in my Pro10 and it works flawlessly. The HW V10 motor are also very good, I ran last year a V10 5.5t and that's one of the best motor I had. The only little issue I regret is the fact that the motor can cannot be turned, so if unfortunately you crack a mount hole, you have to turn the complete motor to mount it again. That's the reason why I use a Reedy Sonic Mach 2 motor.
The price of the combo seems very good and that's because the new HW XR10 Pro esc has been released some days ago, so that's a very good deal! Now you have to choose the "right" motor turn

Regards,
G-rem

Salkin

Quick answer, there is no "one" best...

fizzy

iTrader: (15)

The HW combo you are looking at is one of the best you could go for, you wouldn't be making a mistake going for that combo but as mentioned maybe look into what turn motor you should run as mod motors are very fast and might be uncontrollable on a small indoor track

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

I'll second that. The HW combo is very good, but for a 200mm pan car on 2S batteries on a small indoor track, I'd go for something much slower than a 6.5T motor.

bennieblanco

iTrader: (6)

Thank you all for your responses. You have put me at ease as I make this transition to 1/10th scale.

I went ahead and purchased the HW v3.1 combo with a 10.5t motor. Worst case is that I have to get a less powerful motor later.

In terms of the kits themselves, do they arrive with the screw holes already drilled into the chassis?

I was looking at a YouTube video of the VBC WildFire 08 and it seemed like the poster had to drill some holes into the chassis.

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

10.5T on 2S can still be quite a hand full, especially for new drivers, but (other than the 6.5T) it's in the ok-ish region. I'd probably have started with a 13.5T or even 17.5T, with the option of motoring up later.

Really? Personally, I've so far never seen a kit where you had to drill any chassis holes yourself. And I would be extremely surprised, if I ever came across one. So don't worry.

bennieblanco

iTrader: (6)

Good to know. Thank you. I'll buy a second 13.5t motor too.

That's the beauty of moving from 1/5th to 1/10th scale. Everything is 1/4 the price

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

If you plan on racing, most 1/10 scale pan cars are 1S with World GT being the most popular. WGT-R may now have eclipsed it in the US. The two classes use the same chassis with minor height mods to interchange.

Pro 10 (235mm): 2 classes stock 2S 10.5 and 2S mod. This is mostly international as the class has died in the US. 255 mm to 260 mm wheelbase. Brutally fast, but handle really well.

WGT 200mm foam spec tires: 1S 13.5 Blinky and 255 mm to 260 mm wheelbase. Medium high speed wise and handle extremely well.

Spec 17.5/World GT-R Rubber tires: 1S Blinky 17.5 and 255 mm to 260 mm wheelbase. Medium speed and handle very well.

Lemans 21.5 2S, foam tires. These cars have a longer 275mm wheelbase. These are medium speed and perform about the same level as the World GT cars on foam. They require special bodies that are longer, so be careful when ordering bodies if you have one.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Before you buy anymore gear go to the track your planning to race at and see whst classes are run for the type of car you have bought. Talk to the racers running in the classes that you're new car can run in. No point in buying motors or batteries that don't fit the class rules at your track.

bennieblanco

iTrader: (6)

Good point. I'll do that this weekend.