VTA Class - Teching Motors
#1
VTA Class - Teching Motors
I am looking for information on what people are doing at tracks to tech specifically VTA motors. Unfortunately the local track is having issues. Specifically a couple of VTA cars are running 2 tenths off the fastest laps posted in the USGT class. It is obvious that somethings up with the motors so we are looking for a tech process for motors that can be put in place. Any ideas or processes you can share would be appreciated.
#2
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
1. Check for blinky. Easy to do.
2. Measure stator resistance across any two motor leads. You'll need a milliohm capable ohm meter. It should measure right around 100 milliohms this way. Just unplug the battery when you do this. You do NOT need to disconnect the motor from the ESC. Just checking for the 'black insert' on the Novak stators will not work. There are 21.5 and 18.5 stators with the black inserts from Novak. These will measure around 65 milliohms and 50 milliohms respectively. We caught a couple of these at a recent big USVTA race.
3. Rotor diameter requires disassembly. Maybe require the top 3 finishers in the A-main to disassemble their motors in front of the tech director after the race. Takes about 5 minutes. Only 12.3mm rotors allowed.
We do the 1st two things at the local points series and it really keeps things on an even playing field.
Hope this helps.
2. Measure stator resistance across any two motor leads. You'll need a milliohm capable ohm meter. It should measure right around 100 milliohms this way. Just unplug the battery when you do this. You do NOT need to disconnect the motor from the ESC. Just checking for the 'black insert' on the Novak stators will not work. There are 21.5 and 18.5 stators with the black inserts from Novak. These will measure around 65 milliohms and 50 milliohms respectively. We caught a couple of these at a recent big USVTA race.
3. Rotor diameter requires disassembly. Maybe require the top 3 finishers in the A-main to disassemble their motors in front of the tech director after the race. Takes about 5 minutes. Only 12.3mm rotors allowed.
We do the 1st two things at the local points series and it really keeps things on an even playing field.
Hope this helps.
#4
he said " two tenths off FASTEST USGT(21.5) lap times"......pretty obvious
Are you guys running real , novak motor only VTA, or ROAR VTA?
Are you guys running real , novak motor only VTA, or ROAR VTA?
#5
We are running Novak motor only. I have done alot of research, including many emails back and forth with Novak tech support and it's crazy how easy it is to monkey with these motors. You would think Novak would engineer a spec class motor to be monkey proof. IMO it would help the VTA class alot if they did so.
I did say 2 tenths off USGT fastest lap times which IMO is impossible with a 25.5 motor, 100 more grams of weight and VTA tires. I run GT and am one of the top three cars, the three top cars run about 1 tenth off each other. Im fast in VTA, fastest legal car, and running about 7 tenths off my GT car times.
I did say 2 tenths off USGT fastest lap times which IMO is impossible with a 25.5 motor, 100 more grams of weight and VTA tires. I run GT and am one of the top three cars, the three top cars run about 1 tenth off each other. Im fast in VTA, fastest legal car, and running about 7 tenths off my GT car times.
#6
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
I wouldn't blame NOVAK, I'd blame the people who feel the need to cheat to win at toy cars.
In any case, teching for stator resistance and blinky will get you 90% of the way there. At least that's what we've found. A larger rotor might be worth a little bit, so if it's a question then a tear-down is in order. If people balk at tearing their motors down, then there's not much else you can do.
Also, teching for battery voltage is something you can do. It's not motor specific but when I'm running tech, it's not unusual to see batteries over the 8.40 limit. And with the new ZAPPER batteries coming out, it's something we'll have to be more vigilant on.
In any case, teching for stator resistance and blinky will get you 90% of the way there. At least that's what we've found. A larger rotor might be worth a little bit, so if it's a question then a tear-down is in order. If people balk at tearing their motors down, then there's not much else you can do.
Also, teching for battery voltage is something you can do. It's not motor specific but when I'm running tech, it's not unusual to see batteries over the 8.40 limit. And with the new ZAPPER batteries coming out, it's something we'll have to be more vigilant on.
#7
A few months ago I started a 25.5 touring car class with the Novak boss 25.5. It has been successfull. At first we were slower then our Usgt 21.5 class. Now we are faster. The main reason for our speed gain has been the motor analyzer I bought. It has been used by everyone & everyone had seen success with it. Most of us are running 58° of timing geared 3.7 on a 140'x75' asphalt outdoor track.
I have set up many Novak 25.5 motors & have only found one of them to be better then the rest. Very good and consistent motor from motor to motor.
I have set up many Novak 25.5 motors & have only found one of them to be better then the rest. Very good and consistent motor from motor to motor.
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
In all reality you can only blame the ones that are actually doing the cheating. It's disgusting that people need to cheat. But competition does that to people. I think that opening up the VTA rules to allow more than just Novak motors will help, yet it will turn it into a "motor of the week class", then prices go through the roof if you want to stay on the box.
I would also look into the batteries they are running. They could be charging and discharging at high amps. I have seen it way too much in any spec racing class.
I would also look into the batteries they are running. They could be charging and discharging at high amps. I have seen it way too much in any spec racing class.
#10
Motors are motors. Dyno them if you want sounds like a lot of effort though, and you'll have to position it in a way that does not offend the party involved - especially if you are wrong.
Could be batteries making them fast.
Could be speed control settings.
Could be good setup.
Could be the chassis choice.
Could be good driving.
Could be fairy dust and unicorns.
Welcome to racing. What's fast today, may not be fast tomorrow.
Could be batteries making them fast.
Could be speed control settings.
Could be good setup.
Could be the chassis choice.
Could be good driving.
Could be fairy dust and unicorns.
Welcome to racing. What's fast today, may not be fast tomorrow.
#11
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Motors are motors. Dyno them if you want sounds like a lot of effort though, and you'll have to position it in a way that does not offend the party involved - especially if you are wrong.
Could be batteries making them fast.
Could be speed control settings.
Could be good setup.
Could be the chassis choice.
Could be good driving.
Could be fairy dust and unicorns.
Welcome to racing. What's fast today, may not be fast tomorrow.
Could be batteries making them fast.
Could be speed control settings.
Could be good setup.
Could be the chassis choice.
Could be good driving.
Could be fairy dust and unicorns.
Welcome to racing. What's fast today, may not be fast tomorrow.
#12
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I'm using a different 25.5 motor brand for my league in Shanghai due to Novak unavailability.
I'm thinking about opening up my single supplier motor, BUT installing the Gforce rev limiter. The maximum setting of 17,000 rpms isn't too far off the max revs a 25.5 motor makes at 50* timing.
No more need to tech motors, but could create other issues.
What do you guys think?
I'm thinking about opening up my single supplier motor, BUT installing the Gforce rev limiter. The maximum setting of 17,000 rpms isn't too far off the max revs a 25.5 motor makes at 50* timing.
No more need to tech motors, but could create other issues.
What do you guys think?