Tamiya TA07 pro
#766
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
Base setup for Tamiya America is yellow springs all around with around 35 wt 450cst oil all around. C/C front blocks and AX/D at the rear with no block spacers. Upper arms almost parallel to the lower arm front and rear. We usually put 3mm spacers on the rear upright and put corresponding amount of spacers on the rear bulkhead to maintain parallelism to increase compliance. Rear diff we use from 2000 to 5000 depending on the traction level. Diff tightness is very important on that track. I always look for the hardest oil we can get away with without having spinning out issue out of the turns on that track.
I think Tamiya track is having traction issues lately due to cold so don't be too discouraged if the car do not seem to be on rails right now.
I think Tamiya track is having traction issues lately due to cold so don't be too discouraged if the car do not seem to be on rails right now.
#767
Tech Adept
Base setup for Tamiya America is yellow springs all around with around 35 wt 450cst oil all around. C/C front blocks and AX/D at the rear with no block spacers. Upper arms almost parallel to the lower arm front and rear. We usually put 3mm spacers on the rear upright and put corresponding amount of spacers on the rear bulkhead to maintain parallelism to increase compliance. Rear diff we use from 2000 to 5000 depending on the traction level. Diff tightness is very important on that track. I always look for the hardest oil we can get away with without having spinning out issue out of the turns on that track.
I think Tamiya track is having traction issues lately due to cold so don't be too discouraged if the car do not seem to be on rails right now.
I think Tamiya track is having traction issues lately due to cold so don't be too discouraged if the car do not seem to be on rails right now.
I also found out the stock Tamiya shock oil is 30 wt / 400cst as thats whats in it.
#768
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Decided to put together a bearing guide if anyone wants it. Useful if you want to buy a new set of ceramic bearings or just replace your stock ones.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...g%20Guide.xlsx
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...g%20Guide.xlsx
#769
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Decided to put together a bearing guide if anyone wants it. Useful if you want to buy a new set of ceramic bearings or just replace your stock ones.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...g%20Guide.xlsx
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...g%20Guide.xlsx
#770
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
Still can't find how to order the Active Hobby parts for this car. And it looks like they have come out with some cool new stuff too. Would really like to get those braces though. Car was here at in practice, but the action came way up before 1st qual, and I fought traction rolling all day. I think a stiffer chassis would have helped some. I can see the motor mount twist when I hold the car in the air and hit the he throttle. And this is with a 25.5.
#771
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: " The World's Most Famous Beach "
Posts: 2,307
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
traction rolling questions
Still can't find how to order the Active Hobby parts for this car. And it looks like they have come out with some cool new stuff too. Would really like to get those braces though. Car was here at in practice, but the action came way up before 1st qual, and I fought traction rolling all day. I think a stiffer chassis would have helped some. I can see the motor mount twist when I hold the car in the air and hit the he throttle. And this is with a 25.5.
2 questions regarding your traction rolling problem. Are you using the aluminum motor mounts and are you using the graphite suspension parts? Also curious what springs are you running on carpet and what carpet grey or black?
thx
#772
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
I grey carpet, but it's directly on the concreat floor. We always have the issue of traction going way up when it rains or high humidity as the moisture gets into the carpet.
I am running the aluminum motor mounts and graphite parts. For springs I'm running yoke pink/blue.
My car has been handling great for the past two race days, and great in the morning before the rain yesterday. It was pointed out by a friend that I may be over saucing my tires. I went with a quick coat and wipe with only about s minute soak in the tires and the issue went way down. The tires were new a couple races ago and I think that they have finally "broken in" and I can go to almost no sauce.
I am running the aluminum motor mounts and graphite parts. For springs I'm running yoke pink/blue.
My car has been handling great for the past two race days, and great in the morning before the rain yesterday. It was pointed out by a friend that I may be over saucing my tires. I went with a quick coat and wipe with only about s minute soak in the tires and the issue went way down. The tires were new a couple races ago and I think that they have finally "broken in" and I can go to almost no sauce.
#773
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I grey carpet, but it's directly on the concreat floor. We always have the issue of traction going way up when it rains or high humidity as the moisture gets into the carpet.
I am running the aluminum motor mounts and graphite parts. For springs I'm running yoke pink/blue.
My car has been handling great for the past two race days, and great in the morning before the rain yesterday. It was pointed out by a friend that I may be over saucing my tires. I went with a quick coat and wipe with only about s minute soak in the tires and the issue went way down. The tires were new a couple races ago and I think that they have finally "broken in" and I can go to almost no sauce.
I am running the aluminum motor mounts and graphite parts. For springs I'm running yoke pink/blue.
My car has been handling great for the past two race days, and great in the morning before the rain yesterday. It was pointed out by a friend that I may be over saucing my tires. I went with a quick coat and wipe with only about s minute soak in the tires and the issue went way down. The tires were new a couple races ago and I think that they have finally "broken in" and I can go to almost no sauce.
#774
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
I can. I'll post it up in here in a couple days. I'm out of town at the moment.
But I can give a good start.
AE 35 weight fluid fr/rr
Yoke pink front blue rear springs
Upper shock mount in middleish hole front and rear
Front 05e blocks no spacers under
Rear Xb/d or c blocks no spacers under
Front and rear inner camber link 3/4 mm washers
-2 camber all the way around
3k diff
But I can give a good start.
AE 35 weight fluid fr/rr
Yoke pink front blue rear springs
Upper shock mount in middleish hole front and rear
Front 05e blocks no spacers under
Rear Xb/d or c blocks no spacers under
Front and rear inner camber link 3/4 mm washers
-2 camber all the way around
3k diff
#775
Tech Adept
?
Anyone have an extra set of 44mm Double Cardan Joint Shafts they want to sell?
If no, will going back to the front diff with heavy oil get rid of the chatter?
If no, will going back to the front diff with heavy oil get rid of the chatter?
#777
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I can. I'll post it up in here in a couple days. I'm out of town at the moment.
But I can give a good start.
AE 35 weight fluid fr/rr
Yoke pink front blue rear springs
Upper shock mount in middleish hole front and rear
Front 05e blocks no spacers under
Rear Xb/d or c blocks no spacers under
Front and rear inner camber link 3/4 mm washers
-2 camber all the way around
3k diff
But I can give a good start.
AE 35 weight fluid fr/rr
Yoke pink front blue rear springs
Upper shock mount in middleish hole front and rear
Front 05e blocks no spacers under
Rear Xb/d or c blocks no spacers under
Front and rear inner camber link 3/4 mm washers
-2 camber all the way around
3k diff
#778
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
Well I found something that could be causing it... a screw holding the rear inner toe block had been backing out. And by the scratches on the head of it, looked like it had been dragging the carpet for a while. It was either grabbing the carpet when the chassis rolled and/or was preventing the suspension from doing its job like it is supposed to. Other toe block screws were loose as well. Guess it's time to start doing a little between rounds preventative maintenance.
As for the camber links, I did lower them 1mm prior to the main and it helped. But again the last race and during practice with that same set-up my car was dailed. Traction came up so fast due to the floor sweating into the carpet. Traction came up faster than we have ever seen it at our track. I wasn't the only one the was having issues. But I will raise the RC for my next race on the black carpet since I know that is higher traction.
As for the camber links, I did lower them 1mm prior to the main and it helped. But again the last race and during practice with that same set-up my car was dailed. Traction came up so fast due to the floor sweating into the carpet. Traction came up faster than we have ever seen it at our track. I wasn't the only one the was having issues. But I will raise the RC for my next race on the black carpet since I know that is higher traction.
#779
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
ARC light weight aluminum spool outdrives installed. After removing about 2mm from the inner section of the outdrives, they fit great and are 5g lighter (as a pair) than the Tamiya light weight steel outdrives. I know it's not mush but if your still running the stock outdrives, I'd go with thee over the steel. At least running 21.5 or 25.5 class motors.
#780
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: " The World's Most Famous Beach "
Posts: 2,307
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
outdrives
ARC light weight aluminum spool outdrives installed. After removing about 2mm from the inner section of the outdrives, they fit great and are 5g lighter (as a pair) than the Tamiya light weight steel outdrives. I know it's not mush but if your still running the stock outdrives, I'd go with thee over the steel. At least running 21.5 or 25.5 class motors.