Electric Motor 101
11-11-2002, 01:45 PM
#46
the endbell seems to be bent though...
11-11-2002, 02:06 PM
#47
Tech Elite
Crash Damage????
Sounds like crash damage. But the motor is well inboard and protected by the chassis isn't it?
Only spend the time fixing it if you have to wait to get a new motor. (don't want to miss a race day)
Only spend the time fixing it if you have to wait to get a new motor. (don't want to miss a race day)
11-11-2002, 02:53 PM
#48
Tech Regular
It look like the shaft (where you put on the pinion) was smashed as to try to make the endbell come off. (holding the can with the endbell up, slam it down..
) Someone was trying to take the motor apart, and didn't get the tabs removed well enough. My two cents
) Someone was trying to take the motor apart, and didn't get the tabs removed well enough. My two cents
11-11-2002, 03:06 PM
#49
Tech Elite
The Smashing Endbells
I thought that the solder tabs looked bent, but I figured it was just the way the picture was taken.
Unknown; I hope that you are NOT striking your motors on a hard surface as "Pit Crew" suggests. This will surely damage or break the magnets inside the can. You can even UNalign the poles of a magnet by heavy tapping or striking making the magnetic attraction weaker.
Unknown; I hope that you are NOT striking your motors on a hard surface as "Pit Crew" suggests. This will surely damage or break the magnets inside the can. You can even UNalign the poles of a magnet by heavy tapping or striking making the magnetic attraction weaker.
11-11-2002, 03:23 PM
#50
unknown
If that's a sealed endbell motor, I'd just junk it. It's prolly more headache than it's worth for a $5 replacement cost at your lhs. As far as the droop goes, I don't know if your car has it or not. The best I can tell, AE made some changes and some cars do not have the stuff you need. Here's what to look for. On the chassis tub, there are small "ears" sticking out directly below the center facing edge of each lower arm. If you don't have those "ears," you will need to get a different chassis that has it. On the lower arms, there are holes drilled on the center facing edge. If your arms don't have the holes, you'll need to replace the arms with ones that do have holes. Finally, you need the grub screws that go into the holes in the arms. If your arms don't have the holes, you probably don't have the grub screws. It might ne easier to just take the car to your lhs and tell them you would like to set the droop on the car and have them help you get the right stuff. If you end up needing a new chassis and arms and don't want to spend the $$, pick up a "shock rebuild kit." GS and others make them. What you want are the silicone o-rings. You can disassemble your shocks and put several o-rings over each shock shaft before you install the shock shaft in the shock body. This is a big pita because you have to reassemble the shock and install it on the car to see if you have it right. If not, you have to tear it down and do it again until you get it right. It's also difficult to make changes at the track and you're limited on how fine a change you can make, but it should cost around $10 vs $70 or $80. I suggest starting with 1mm droop up front and 2mm in the rear. If you need more steering, go 3mm in back. If you need more than that, go 2mm up front. If you still need more, try something else! Good luck!
If that's a sealed endbell motor, I'd just junk it. It's prolly more headache than it's worth for a $5 replacement cost at your lhs. As far as the droop goes, I don't know if your car has it or not. The best I can tell, AE made some changes and some cars do not have the stuff you need. Here's what to look for. On the chassis tub, there are small "ears" sticking out directly below the center facing edge of each lower arm. If you don't have those "ears," you will need to get a different chassis that has it. On the lower arms, there are holes drilled on the center facing edge. If your arms don't have the holes, you'll need to replace the arms with ones that do have holes. Finally, you need the grub screws that go into the holes in the arms. If your arms don't have the holes, you probably don't have the grub screws. It might ne easier to just take the car to your lhs and tell them you would like to set the droop on the car and have them help you get the right stuff. If you end up needing a new chassis and arms and don't want to spend the $$, pick up a "shock rebuild kit." GS and others make them. What you want are the silicone o-rings. You can disassemble your shocks and put several o-rings over each shock shaft before you install the shock shaft in the shock body. This is a big pita because you have to reassemble the shock and install it on the car to see if you have it right. If not, you have to tear it down and do it again until you get it right. It's also difficult to make changes at the track and you're limited on how fine a change you can make, but it should cost around $10 vs $70 or $80. I suggest starting with 1mm droop up front and 2mm in the rear. If you need more steering, go 3mm in back. If you need more than that, go 2mm up front. If you still need more, try something else! Good luck!
11-11-2002, 06:19 PM
#51
I will check to see if I can adjust droop without having to spend all the money. As for the motor...it is going in the garbage and I am getting the P2K2 Pro and a 21 tooth pinion gear.
Let me ask this question one more time...
What kind of spray cleaner do I need for the motor? What brand is good? Also, what kind of lube do I need for te motor. I want to make sure I take goo care of it so it lasts!
Let me ask this question one more time...
What kind of spray cleaner do I need for the motor? What brand is good? Also, what kind of lube do I need for te motor. I want to make sure I take goo care of it so it lasts!
11-11-2002, 06:25 PM
#52
Update on the droop setting! I went to the Team Associated website and looked at the specs for the TC3 RTR kit (I am not at home). Here is what it says:
- Droop screws help adjust front and rear suspension arm droop with the included droop gauge.
I guess this answers my question...I don't need to spend more money just to be able to adjust my droop!
- Droop screws help adjust front and rear suspension arm droop with the included droop gauge.
I guess this answers my question...I don't need to spend more money just to be able to adjust my droop!
11-11-2002, 06:40 PM
#53
Tech Elite
Motor spray 101
Any brand of motor spray should be fine. Same goes for oil. Just make sure you buy "Bushing" oil, not bearing oil.
Droop settings. The TC3 instructions might have some recommended "Droop" settings. Stick with those to start.
If not, I would run a little more than 1mm in front and 2mm in back. The car will be easier to drive for you being a Novice.
Droop settings. The TC3 instructions might have some recommended "Droop" settings. Stick with those to start.
If not, I would run a little more than 1mm in front and 2mm in back. The car will be easier to drive for you being a Novice.
11-11-2002, 09:33 PM
#54
thanks for the info.
Just a question about the droop. The droop will make the hide height lower right?
Just a question about the droop. The droop will make the hide height lower right?
11-13-2002, 10:36 AM
#55
No. droop has no effect on ride height. you set your ride height first. I'd prolly start with 5mm ride height all around. Then lift the frontend off your workbench and measure the amount of suspension uptravel you have just as the wheels lift off the bench. That's droop. There are a number of ways to measure it, but that method takes everything into account, so there is no guesswork. I would set the ride height at 5mm and have the wheels start to lift at 6mm up front and 7mm in back to start with.
11-13-2002, 10:54 AM
#56
Tech Elite
Droop effect
Good settings for an experienced racer. But I think his car will be easier to drive with a little more droop at both ends.
psycho;
Do you let the tires leave the ground when checking droop, or do you just let them get light (able to turn with light finger pressure).
I've been using a small piece of paper under each tire to tell me when the tire just leaves the set-up board. Do you use the actual tire and wheels or do you use Set-up wheels. The O-rings are not very tight on mine and I question their accuracy.
Also when setting droop on my Nitro car using the up stops. I find small droop settings (1-2 mm) will slightly effect ride height.
psycho;
Do you let the tires leave the ground when checking droop, or do you just let them get light (able to turn with light finger pressure).
I've been using a small piece of paper under each tire to tell me when the tire just leaves the set-up board. Do you use the actual tire and wheels or do you use Set-up wheels. The O-rings are not very tight on mine and I question their accuracy.
Also when setting droop on my Nitro car using the up stops. I find small droop settings (1-2 mm) will slightly effect ride height.
Last edited by popsracer; 11-13-2002 at 10:56 AM.
11-13-2002, 11:12 AM
#57
Unknown, I have only been racing for a year now but have some advice that most these guys will back me up on.
Motors: You only really need one good one. A p2k2 or mvp will be fine. Maintenece is the key to performance. Lots of good how-tos on that. And make sure you can get your comm cut once in awhile (every 2-4 race days). Gearing for a tc3 with a stock motor is easy. 24t for average track, lower for tighter, higher for long sweeping. Never gear over 27t. It's too much for most motors.
Servos: Get the absolute best you can afford but if you are still bashing stuff, maybe wait awhile so you don't trash it. I like the hitec 925mg. check out www.servocity.com for best deal and free shipping. They do really help.
Batteries: Better to get one good pack than 2 crappy ones. I use NiMH's so I can run the same pack all day provided it gets cooled down before you charge it. The gp3300's are the best deal right now. Try www.promatchracing.com for deals on those.
Chargers: Just make sure it does NiMH's the right way. A bargain one is the Duratrax deluxe (made by Eagle racing) for about $75. For discharging nothing beats a string of light bulbs. NiMH's don't need a discharger and as NiCD's won't be imported after Jan 3, 2003 due to enviromental laws (rightfully so) getting a discharging charger is pointless.
ESC: stick with the one you have till you are ready to get a top level one. All the intermediate ones are a waste of money. The novaks are my choice because of the repair policy ($40 to fix no matter what you did to it) The gt7 is awsome.
Transmitter: I bought a JR xr3 and it works but I could have spent $50 more and got an airtronics m8 and never have to get another.
Setup: The stock setup is fine for most tracks and makes for an easy to drive car. Setup sheets only tell you how that driver likes his car. You have to set the car up for you, not some factory sponsered guy.
Bottom line is keeping your car clean and straight (straight as in camber and ride height all set coreectly and evenly) Don't waste money on stuff that really won't make you go faster. When you are a new driver, it's all the driver (Well, it always is but even more so when you're new). Save your money and just race. You can toss money at your car all day and it won't go faster. I got my a** kicked all summer by a guy with a used tc3, novak explorer and old 1700 NiCD's cuz he could drive way better. Just drive your own race. Concentrate on driving smooth lines. I started driving better when I quit trying to win and just tried to drive well. Racing is about control, not speed.
I am offering this because I made all the buying mistakes and regret them.
Motors: You only really need one good one. A p2k2 or mvp will be fine. Maintenece is the key to performance. Lots of good how-tos on that. And make sure you can get your comm cut once in awhile (every 2-4 race days). Gearing for a tc3 with a stock motor is easy. 24t for average track, lower for tighter, higher for long sweeping. Never gear over 27t. It's too much for most motors.
Servos: Get the absolute best you can afford but if you are still bashing stuff, maybe wait awhile so you don't trash it. I like the hitec 925mg. check out www.servocity.com for best deal and free shipping. They do really help.
Batteries: Better to get one good pack than 2 crappy ones. I use NiMH's so I can run the same pack all day provided it gets cooled down before you charge it. The gp3300's are the best deal right now. Try www.promatchracing.com for deals on those.
Chargers: Just make sure it does NiMH's the right way. A bargain one is the Duratrax deluxe (made by Eagle racing) for about $75. For discharging nothing beats a string of light bulbs. NiMH's don't need a discharger and as NiCD's won't be imported after Jan 3, 2003 due to enviromental laws (rightfully so) getting a discharging charger is pointless.
ESC: stick with the one you have till you are ready to get a top level one. All the intermediate ones are a waste of money. The novaks are my choice because of the repair policy ($40 to fix no matter what you did to it) The gt7 is awsome.
Transmitter: I bought a JR xr3 and it works but I could have spent $50 more and got an airtronics m8 and never have to get another.
Setup: The stock setup is fine for most tracks and makes for an easy to drive car. Setup sheets only tell you how that driver likes his car. You have to set the car up for you, not some factory sponsered guy.
Bottom line is keeping your car clean and straight (straight as in camber and ride height all set coreectly and evenly) Don't waste money on stuff that really won't make you go faster. When you are a new driver, it's all the driver (Well, it always is but even more so when you're new). Save your money and just race. You can toss money at your car all day and it won't go faster. I got my a** kicked all summer by a guy with a used tc3, novak explorer and old 1700 NiCD's cuz he could drive way better. Just drive your own race. Concentrate on driving smooth lines. I started driving better when I quit trying to win and just tried to drive well. Racing is about control, not speed.
I am offering this because I made all the buying mistakes and regret them.
11-13-2002, 11:22 AM
#58
Tech Elite
Perfectly said
Claydoh;
This is the best advice yet to give a rookie. I agree with it 100%. I wish those words were mine.
Where did you hear about no NiCd's after the 1st of the year?
Thanks from all of us,
This is the best advice yet to give a rookie. I agree with it 100%. I wish those words were mine.
Where did you hear about no NiCd's after the 1st of the year?
Thanks from all of us,
11-13-2002, 11:34 AM
#59
Shucks, just trying to save somebody all the headaches I went through. rc racing is the most fun I've had in years (I'm 39). I've seen a few guys give up because they thought that money was the reason they were losing and thats just wrong. The turning point for me was when I realized there were 2 guys I raced with in sportsman stock I just couldn't beat so I just started trying not to break stuff and now I can beat both of them. I won the A main last Saturday in sportsman. And I'm going to enjoy these wins cuz when I move to stock sedan, I'll be getting smoked regularly. : )
Umm, I read about the NiCD import ban on ...I think it was Pro-Match's site. But NiCD's are toxic to the extreme. NiMH's can just be tossed in the trash.
Umm, I read about the NiCD import ban on ...I think it was Pro-Match's site. But NiCD's are toxic to the extreme. NiMH's can just be tossed in the trash.
11-13-2002, 02:16 PM
#60
The best advice I ever got..."Slow down, and you'll go faster".
Alot of times you're trying so hard to go fast, that you're making mistakes, if you just slow down, quit pushing (the limits) so much you'll find that the lap times will come down.
I don't know about the motor that comes in the RTR TC3, but a Chameleon 2 19T motor will be much faster than most stock motors. Alot of tracks will run 3 classes of TC's...stock, 19T, and open mod.
Alot of times you're trying so hard to go fast, that you're making mistakes, if you just slow down, quit pushing (the limits) so much you'll find that the lap times will come down.
I don't know about the motor that comes in the RTR TC3, but a Chameleon 2 19T motor will be much faster than most stock motors. Alot of tracks will run 3 classes of TC's...stock, 19T, and open mod.