Originally posted by popsracer Nobody ever answered my question about using bearings in a "Stock" motor.
Can you just replace the bushings with bearings or does it take a special can and endbell? AND, would bearings really make any noticable difference over bushings?
Thanks,
Yes, you can put bearings in a stock motor.. It makes it non race legal, but you can. It makes a noticable difference if your geared correctly...
Question is why would you do it? If you wanna go faster just get a 19T or a mod motor. If your racing stock and you put them in, your just cheating.
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR Whoah---- wait a minute slugger, before you go and get all that graphite stuff you need to worry about controlling your car, REMEMBER... Graphite is stiffer, lighter and breaks a whole lot easier!! Upgrades like a good FM radio, the before mentioned servo and a good racing speedo will improve your lap time much faster than any graphite do-hickie and the aluminum heatsink is a waste of money.......
Whoah---- i wasn't going to go out and get all this stuff in the near future. First I am going to get the motorand the sway bars. Then im going to go to the track and see what the motor feels like compared to the 19t that is in there right now. I am going to play around with #1-gearing and #2-suspension (droop). I wasn;t going to go out and get all that stuff in the next 3 weeks. I just ran my car for the first time on carpet on Friday. I will post some pics of the motor and how the endbell is seperating from the can. How I worded it was sorta wrong....but don't jump to conclusions that I am going to go out and get all that stuff ASAP.
Agreed. Save the chassis hop-ups for later.
Buy the "Stock" motor since it seems like you need it now.
Then get a Digital servo. After that maybe a better charger that will charge at least at 5amps.
I think the speed control will be OK as long as you run "Stock" class.
I would get a "Computer" radio before a new speed control. A "Comp" radio can make the car easier to drive because of all the adjustments.
Again start small and replace only what is nesessary. It is very easy to turn your car into a money pit. (ALOT of us have been there)
Was just a thought. Didn't say that I was actually going to do it.
I usually do really good in Sportman Stock Electric. But the guys from Expert electric mow me down on the back straight.
Speed Kills, and boy would I like to.........Never mind.
I never assumed that you where going out to get the stuff next week, What I was saying is that your RC dollars would make a bigger impact in other areas than graphite goodies......
I understand. Thanks for looking out. The next two hop-ups are going to be the motor and the sway bars. Then I will post the Suspension 101. I understand toe and chamber...but everything else is chinese to me.
Originally posted by unknown I understand. Thanks for looking out. The next two hop-ups are going to be the motor and the sway bars. Then I will post the Suspension 101. I understand toe and chamber...but everything else is chinese to me.
Its one of those sites I checked when I started out. I still go back to this site often. If you want you may download a PDF book, lookup the "faster cornering like a pro" thread. That thread is very informative...
I really wouldn't bother with the swaybars. I race a TC3 mod and I find they are only really useful on tracks where there are a lot of quick transitions like high speed chicanes. Otherwise, you'll want the extra streering without the swaybars. If I were you, I'd spend the money on a good stock motor, like the P2K2, several springrates on either side of the kit springs, several tire/insert combos and the stuff you need to adjust the droop on the car. The car should be very competitive with those small changes. I agree with the suggestion that was made about using a FET servo. I only run FET servos in my cars, but they are pretty expensive (~$100) You might consider one of the highspeed non-FET servos that can be had in the $35-$50 range. I would also get a couple good matched cell battery packs. Check out http://www.promatchracing.com/index.htm They have an excellent reputation and good prices. When racing stock, you are only interested in voltage. You want the highest voltage possible. Just make sure you're comparing numbers from comparable discharge rates. Most of the well known matchers use a 30A discharge rate, but I've seen some 20A discharge rates out there.
The P2K2 Pro Stock motor is coming real soon. Right now I have two Ni-CD battery packs. Eventually I am going to be changing over to Ni-MH and going to be getting myself a new charger (one with a discharger built it). I believe the TC3 has the ability to set the droop without buying anything additional....am I right? If now, I will go out and get what I need to do that. I am going to get some new springs...and test those out...and I;m going to test some different ride heights.
OK, here is the 19 turn motor that came with my TC3 RTR. I told you that the endbell is coming apart from the can....well, here are some pictures....let me know what you think I can do!
If it's not damaged from overheating. You should be able to force the endbell back on and restake the lockdown tabs on the can.
I've disassembled a "sealed" motor by bending the tabs enough to remove the endbell. Yes now it is "tampered" with, but I don't race at Roar events anyways. Also it's in my sons TL01.
Re: Ball bearing "Stock" motor
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