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Old 12-11-2008, 04:50 AM   #1366
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i use rcmart.com

very reliable they ship quickly and very cheap
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Old 12-11-2008, 05:22 AM   #1367
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Originally Posted by scottwhat12 View Post
hey guys im still learning rc and i was just wondering what would happen if i put a ball diff in the rear of my car and i rallyed offroad . would it cause it to slide ? i was also thinking about getting the 3 racing solid diff which is like a locked diff , what would this make the car do if i was rallying offraod?

thanks for help
Scott,

A ball diff is going to be better than a geared diff - smoother - but will require more maintenance as the plates wear.
For rallying with low traction tuning the diff to have a little slip might help with smoother takeoffs.

The locked diff (spool) at the front will give you less turn in and a shit load of brakes. It will also help you pull you out of corners. I doubt it will be good for low traction.

Kevin
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Old 12-12-2008, 04:07 AM   #1368
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Default TT-01 Type E?

Okay, I want to build a TT-01 for the upcoming 2009 TCS season and will run the Novice class until I get comfortable to move up.

The Type E version of the chassis is the best yet I gather.

Ball Bearings are automatic in any R/C so that's a given.

I have read most of this thread and it seem chassis dive is a problem for this car under braking. The Type E has the front arm adjustments to combat this as I found out, is that correct?

The Tamiya Factory track is a very smooth surface and Road Runners has been repaved so maybe oil shocks can wait until later. What other hop-ups would you recommend?

Lastly does body design have an effect on handling?

It seems many feel the slower speeds of the "Silver Can" cars don't take advantage of front splitter and rear wings as much as it would with faster engines, thus maybe a car like the Ferrari 430 without a rear wing would be just as fast as say the BMW Z4 Club Racer?

Thanks in advance for the advice and input...
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Old 12-12-2008, 05:27 AM   #1369
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If you're talking about silver can racing with a TT01, we have found that either the E or the regular TT works fine (in fact, we feel that the non-E motor mount which runs a little loose, actually make the car slightly faster), although the BB steering on the E is much better. We also like the TRF shocks, although the plastic ones (get the super mini ones) work OK for most racers. As you mentioned, bearings are a must. We also suggest the turnbuckle steering links (permits smoother suspension movement) and the aluminum driveshaft (the new one with the drive cups for each end is even better). As far as bodies go, yes even a small wing seems preferable to no wing at all. The 430 is a fine body as is the NSX and the Mercedes DTM, all with the kit wings work just fine. In fact, pretty much every body works well at silver can speeds.
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Old 12-12-2008, 08:39 AM   #1370
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Is the TT-01R a better kit overall than the TT-01E? A local hobbyshop has one sitting on the shelves and was thinking of buying it for xmas.
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:19 AM   #1371
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definately i would get the r over the e
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:40 PM   #1372
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Originally Posted by djfourmoney View Post
Okay, I want to build a TT-01 for the upcoming 2009 TCS season and will run the Novice class until I get comfortable to move up.
There are some very good fast racers that have answered your questions, and I agree with them. Let me add something else:

I am an experienced racer and run mostly high end cars, but to run the 2008 TCS I bought the cheapest sedan kit they make (Enzo TT-01 for $80) and ran it with only bearings, 2 degree rear uprights, B3 tires, and the upgraded wing. I ran the kit friction shocks, kit driveshaft, kit everything else. Under a silver can motor it ran great. Look at post #835 on this thread and you will see my evaluation and gearing charts.

Even as an experienced racer I didn't expect to podium even if I had a blinged out TA05 (which I did in 2007 TCS and broke on every race, and later sold it), so I decided to run for fun and see how I could do with the cheapest kit. If you are a novice this will be even less about the car and more about driving between the lines and keeping your speed up. Any of the TT-01 kits will be fine. I'm not saying that the "E", "R", etc doesn't come with nicer stuff, but it's likely the stuff that isn't going to translate into faster lap times for you so don't spend too much extra for those kits.

Jeff Smith
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Old 12-12-2008, 01:32 PM   #1373
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Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
There are some very good fast racers that have answered your questions, and I agree with them. Let me add something else:

I am an experienced racer and run mostly high end cars, but to run the 2008 TCS I bought the cheapest sedan kit they make (Enzo TT-01 for $80) and ran it with only bearings, 2 degree rear uprights, B3 tires, and the upgraded wing. I ran the kit friction shocks, kit driveshaft, kit everything else. Under a silver can motor it ran great. Look at post #835 on this thread and you will see my evaluation and gearing charts.

Even as an experienced racer I didn't expect to podium even if I had a blinged out TA05 (which I did in 2007 TCS and broke on every race, and later sold it), so I decided to run for fun and see how I could do with the cheapest kit. If you are a novice this will be even less about the car and more about driving between the lines and keeping your speed up. Any of the TT-01 kits will be fine. I'm not saying that the "E", "R", etc doesn't come with nicer stuff, but it's likely the stuff that isn't going to translate into faster lap times for you so don't spend too much extra for those kits.

Jeff Smith
I couldn't agree more!!! At our club we have eliminated the R as a option...because peolpe would need to spend another "x" amount of money to upgrade.....and I don't think you need it!! The silver cans in the TT01 is just like running the Tamiya Mini.....a little slop never hurt anyone!!! Anyways....the friction dampers(spring holders) will work fine......try some HPI progressive springs......take out the spacer in the dampers....and run the springs as hard as your tires will allow you to get traction(Flourescent green front) (Yellow out back)....

JMO later,
R
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Old 12-12-2008, 02:25 PM   #1374
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
If you're talking about silver can racing with a TT01, we have found that either the E or the regular TT works fine (in fact, we feel that the non-E motor mount which runs a little loose, actually make the car slightly faster), although the BB steering on the E is much better. We also like the TRF shocks, although the plastic ones (get the super mini ones) work OK for most racers. As you mentioned, bearings are a must. We also suggest the turnbuckle steering links (permits smoother suspension movement) and the aluminum driveshaft (the new one with the drive cups for each end is even better). As far as bodies go, yes even a small wing seems preferable to no wing at all. The 430 is a fine body as is the NSX and the Mercedes DTM, all with the kit wings work just fine. In fact, pretty much every body works well at silver can speeds.
Great! I was reading some of the RCGT thread and with hotter motors it seems aerodynamics matter more, especially with downforce.

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Is the TT-01R a better kit overall than the TT-01E? A local hobbyshop has one sitting on the shelves and was thinking of buying it for xmas.
From what I gather, the E has better steering and stronger chassis components to combat flex which was a complaint on earlier versions of the car. The R which I am considering too, has many of the Tamiya Hop Up parts, but as others have stated track time is more important than go-fast parts especially with stock 540 motors, they just don't produce enough speed to really take advantage of the all those parts. At TCS events or Silver Can 540 events, you can't run the Black motor included with your car and its not fast enough to run any of the other "Stock" classes either, it would become a paper weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
There are some very good fast racers that have answered your questions, and I agree with them. Let me add something else:

I am an experienced racer and run mostly high end cars, but to run the 2008 TCS I bought the cheapest sedan kit they make (Enzo TT-01 for $80) and ran it with only bearings, 2 degree rear uprights, B3 tires, and the upgraded wing. I ran the kit friction shocks, kit driveshaft, kit everything else. Under a silver can motor it ran great. Look at post #835 on this thread and you will see my evaluation and gearing charts.

Even as an experienced racer I didn't expect to podium even if I had a blinged out TA05 (which I did in 2007 TCS and broke on every race, and later sold it), so I decided to run for fun and see how I could do with the cheapest kit. If you are a novice this will be even less about the car and more about driving between the lines and keeping your speed up. Any of the TT-01 kits will be fine. I'm not saying that the "E", "R", etc doesn't come with nicer stuff, but it's likely the stuff that isn't going to translate into faster lap times for you so don't spend too much extra for those kits.

Jeff Smith
I don't think driving will be much of an issue but I totally agree track time improves speed more than hot parts do beyond those that free up drive-line drag, improving drivability and suspension binding...

Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayroooahhhh View Post
I couldn't agree more!!! At our club we have eliminated the R as a option...because peolpe would need to spend another "x" amount of money to upgrade.....and I don't think you need it!! The silver cans in the TT01 is just like running the Tamiya Mini.....a little slop never hurt anyone!!! Anyways....the friction dampers(spring holders) will work fine......try some HPI progressive springs......take out the spacer in the dampers....and run the springs as hard as your tires will allow you to get traction(Flourescent green front) (Yellow out back)....

JMO later,
R
Thanks for the advice; "RaceBucks" has run where I'll be running, as far as I know you have to use Tamiya parts. The option of running HPI springs just isn't available in that class.
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Old 12-12-2008, 02:48 PM   #1375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
There are some very good fast racers that have answered your questions, and I agree with them. Let me add something else:

I am an experienced racer and run mostly high end cars, but to run the 2008 TCS I bought the cheapest sedan kit they make (Enzo TT-01 for $80) and ran it with only bearings, 2 degree rear uprights, B3 tires, and the upgraded wing. I ran the kit friction shocks, kit driveshaft, kit everything else. Under a silver can motor it ran great. Look at post #835 on this thread and you will see my evaluation and gearing charts.

Even as an experienced racer I didn't expect to podium even if I had a blinged out TA05 (which I did in 2007 TCS and broke on every race, and later sold it), so I decided to run for fun and see how I could do with the cheapest kit. If you are a novice this will be even less about the car and more about driving between the lines and keeping your speed up. Any of the TT-01 kits will be fine. I'm not saying that the "E", "R", etc doesn't come with nicer stuff, but it's likely the stuff that isn't going to translate into faster lap times for you so don't spend too much extra for those kits.

Jeff Smith
I read all of your posts and found the information very valuable.

You can't get 100% ideal gearing around Tamiya track (with the Silver Can) according to you, but you can get close so I will print out post #835 and use that.

As I said the surface at Tamiya track is very smooth so I can see how shocks don't matter than much. Oil Shocks would help but not as much as other factors would and unless they can be picked up cheaply not worth the investment.

You choose B3 tires but Novice class rules make #50454 legal only, what is this considered, Harder compound? Would you dial-in more scrub with a harder tire to bring it up to temp faster? I ask because you dialed-in 2 degree of rear toe-in I would guess to help tracking, but your sliding the rear more to create heat, right?

Off-Topic -

Why do most R/C tracks look like a game of Super Sprint or R/C Pro Am???

I know designing more flowing tracks that mimic 1:1 tracks would take up more real estate and I would imagine that is the driving force behind the way most tracks look.

I just find it interesting...
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:15 PM   #1376
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...You choose B3 tires but Novice class rules make #50454 legal only
Oh, from a post you made on the TCS forum I thought you were running GT3 as a novice. With that tire you mention now I see you plan on running Spec Novice. In that case you can only run the 19T pinion and 61T spur; you will be going so slow that none of the chassis issues (except bearings) will even come into play. What I said about going cheap then is even better. I'd still add a good wing though.

Since you will be running at Aliso Viejo, get the kit that comes with a body you like, build and run it stock (except for bearings), run it for free on a Saturday at the Aliso Viejo track, see how it feels and ask us regulars there for upgrades and then order a couple upgrades as needed (or maybe a couple of spare parts). You have plenty of time to do that before the Jan 31 TCS.

By the way, RCCARDR is also very experienced at Aliso Viejo and is a very good driver.
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Old 12-12-2008, 07:50 PM   #1377
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Jeff, you are too kind. It took stones to do what you tried at the Aliso Regional and I admire you for it.

We've been running the TT01's in a Senior Spec class in Maryland- basically last year's Tamiya Spec rules but first with kit tires and then with X-Patterns as our control tire because they wear like iron on this track. The class is intended forboth newbies and ore experienced drivers who want to race more than they want to wrench and aren't all ego-centric about high speeds. We run the 19/61 gearing combo but with Red Dot 15K motors- less HP than a full race Red Dot but much quicker than the kit motor. What we have learned is that you don't NEED many hop ups on these cars to get them to handle pretty well, and those were all covered in my previous post.

The only thing I would add to Jeff's advice is to wear in your kit radials in practice until they bevel on the inside and then SAVE THEM FOR RACE DAY. Nicely worn radials work about as well as X-Patterns on our track, which is saying something. And I'd definitely get the oil shocks for the ride height adjustability and spring options.
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Old 12-13-2008, 01:40 AM   #1378
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Great information!

I'm considering an XB kit to cut down on downtime. It would take me a good week including my days off to find the motivation to build it. I know I would be giving up some radio related adjustments for the time being, but I really want to see where I stand with basic stuff and keep cost down, that's an issue coming out of Christmas, this T-Mobile G1 that T-MO insist I pay full pop for and maintenance on the 1:1

I didn't know the oil shock kit allowed you to adjust ride height... Which part number do you recommend??

I'm just trying to keep it under $300, maybe $325 with hop ups (bearings, shocks, springs, prop shaft, adjustable arms & turnbuckle kit)

Not that I want to throw a ton of money in mods at a car, but AWD biggest problem is understeer and anything you can add to help that is always useful...

One more thing about the tires -

If they wear quickly is that because they are really soft or aggressive suspension settings wear them out??

If they are soft, how is the grip level?
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:01 AM   #1379
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hey guys i just got a tto1 and changed the motor to a mamba max but it is still slow i programed the mamba to the max and it will still not go fast, im using it for speed not drifting, knaw i know lipo would help but i cant get one yet i know about gearing but i realy dont know much about gearing i would like some help so if eny one has suggestions it would help, by the way im trying to race some nuckle heads that like to talk $&!#
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Old 12-17-2008, 06:16 AM   #1380
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hey guys i just got a tto1 and changed the motor to a mamba max but it is still slow i programed the mamba to the max and it will still not go fast, im using it for speed not drifting, knaw i know lipo would help but i cant get one yet i know about gearing but i realy dont know much about gearing i would like some help so if eny one has suggestions it would help, by the way im trying to race some nuckle heads that like to talk $&!#
25pinion and 55spur will give you the most speed, unless you custom fit a higher gearing. Also a higher Kv rated motor will get you more speed.
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