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Old 05-21-2008, 05:57 PM   #1036
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The HPI gears may have a different pitch than the Tamiya 52T that is the untested bit. I am not sure if RaceBucks tried them out. In any case, you will not damage your car, you may strip your spur gear. If you go to post #835 and earlier you will see that a lot of testing was done. RaceBucks stayed with the bath tub chassis and Tamiya gears, I went with the carbon fibre chassis and standard gears which are more readily available. At the moment I am running 38x60 (FDR 4.11) with a silver can and easily keep up with more expensive racing cars.
It all depends what you are doing. Gearing is only one aspect of tuning and there are many others. Having a high top speed does not necessarily mean you win a race. You will have to try out a number of things (one at a time) to find your best set up for what you want to do.
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:11 PM   #1037
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Hmm...so 4.11 you get more punch in torque but lose some time in top speed if you're at a long stretch. Correct?
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:17 PM   #1038
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1 more thing. The chart does not indicate how to set the motor mount to the motor as compared to 25T/55T. Without the correct hole (A,B,C,D), the Pinion/Spur might not be meshed well together, right?
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:35 PM   #1039
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The lower the FDR, the higher top speed and the less accelleration. Torque is something the motor puts out and accelleration is what you get. Basically the trade off is speed against accelleration. It is also important to know how your motor performs. A typical silver can (540 motor) has low rpm and high torque. Other motors, especially those with less turns have much higher rpm, but lower torque. You have to match the gears with the type of motor to get what you want. No one said it was easy!

The chart shows in brackets after the FDR what position to mount the motor (ABCD)
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:45 PM   #1040
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Dang...I kept thinking a lower FDR means a higher acceleration. I'm operating a 23T motor so I must actually go higher on my FDR to get more acceleration. Circuits in Singapore are not are big and wide as I see in the U.S.
Thus more acceleration is better for a tight circuit. More FDR?
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:02 PM   #1041
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Also, am using a 23T motor. So can my pinion be lower than 23T?


rcmart.com sells Tamiya Pinion lowest at 12T. But I don't think anyone has tried that low before?
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Old 05-21-2008, 09:35 PM   #1042
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The T in motors is for "Turns". The T in pinions and spurs is for "Teeth". The standard gears for the TT-01 is 19x61. With a 23T (Turns) motor that should give you plenty accelleration whilst still keeping reasonable top speed (more than the silver can anyway). The only way to find out is to try it and to time your laps.
12T pinions are usually used in combination with high rpm motors such as brushless.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:26 PM   #1043
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ok. Will try the lower Pinion/Higher spur combos..
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:34 PM   #1044
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Hello everyone, newb here. Just bought my first RC about a week ago. TT-01r. I like it so far. My question is (I searched and can't find anything) what is the best gearing for a TRINITY KOMODO DRAGON, 19T PRO motor? I'm looking for more of a top speed setup. I don't really race, just play around on parking lots. I figured that lower my FDR is then the better, but I see that I need to put the RPM of the motor and temperature into play also. Currently I'm at 25T pinion and 58t Spur on the Z- Tuned motor. Can I keep the same setting or does anyone recommend something better.

Thanks
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Old 05-29-2008, 12:42 PM   #1045
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Hey Mac,

The gearing you have is one step away from the lowest drive combination of TT-01 spur and pinion gears. If you use the 55T, that will be the fastest gearing with the gears intended for the TT-01.

It's hard to gauge whether you are over-loading your motor in terms of temperature if you don't have a temp gun. However, I think something around a 22-25T with your spur should be fine.

I think some motors tell you the recommended FDR for the car...does this have one?
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Old 05-29-2008, 12:43 PM   #1046
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I have a question...
Has anyone tried running a 17.5 brushless in their TT-01 on an on road course? Where i run TT-01 is used as a spec class and you can only run the silver or black can motor. If you do run 17.5, how hard is it to control?
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Old 05-29-2008, 01:00 PM   #1047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #88driver View Post
I have a question...
Has anyone tried running a 17.5 brushless in their TT-01 on an on road course? Where i run TT-01 is used as a spec class and you can only run the silver or black can motor. If you do run 17.5, how hard is it to control?

I ran a 13.5 lipo foam on carpet with the base kit. Lots of fun, easy to drive but on the verge of out of control. Exactly where it should be.
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Old 05-29-2008, 01:07 PM   #1048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raffaelli View Post
I ran a 13.5 lipo foam on carpet with the base kit. Lots of fun, easy to drive but on the verge of out of control. Exactly where it should be.
is 13.5 slower or faster than 17.5
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:06 PM   #1049
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13.5 faster
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:26 PM   #1050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88crewchief View Post
Comes stock w/ 61t spur and 19t pinion. 22t is standard hop up from tamiya.
so can you put 61t and 22t together???????
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