TT-01 Forum
#1021
Is 25T/55T gear ratio the best I can do for a 23T Hot Bodies S46 motor and Futaba 330CR ESC?
#1022
a few pages back, brrrrm made a 52t spur from a F201 (i think) fit the tt01. look back a few pages & all the info should be there...
#1023
Running on 25T/55T FDR, I'll get 5.72. So 19T/61T I get higher FDR, I get higher torque but lower top speed?
#1024
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
You are correct sir.
Again, try the car out on the track. The can might just have enough torque to push that final drive safely. But in general, over gearing might have a better top speed, but you might never see that speed due to lack of torque/grip/no area straight enough.
adrictan...are you racing in a club? If so, is it possible for you to make runs with a certain gearing, keep track of lap times and more importantly WRITE DOWN HOW THE CAR DRIVES. The qualitative observations you make, I believe, can be more important than the numbers.
I mean, if the car drives well and feels like it has a good amount of torque coming out of corners, and can still kick up the speed in the straights, that's what you're aiming for. However if you don't remember how a certain gearing compares to the other, you've gotten nowhere fast.
I would stick to the TT-01 gears for now. Once you figure out what you're looking for, if it needs to be taller or shorter gearing, you can look into modifying the chassis and drivetrain to get there.
Again, try the car out on the track. The can might just have enough torque to push that final drive safely. But in general, over gearing might have a better top speed, but you might never see that speed due to lack of torque/grip/no area straight enough.
adrictan...are you racing in a club? If so, is it possible for you to make runs with a certain gearing, keep track of lap times and more importantly WRITE DOWN HOW THE CAR DRIVES. The qualitative observations you make, I believe, can be more important than the numbers.
I mean, if the car drives well and feels like it has a good amount of torque coming out of corners, and can still kick up the speed in the straights, that's what you're aiming for. However if you don't remember how a certain gearing compares to the other, you've gotten nowhere fast.
I would stick to the TT-01 gears for now. Once you figure out what you're looking for, if it needs to be taller or shorter gearing, you can look into modifying the chassis and drivetrain to get there.
#1025
Thanks. I get the pic. Will order the pinions & Spurs to try out the best combos.
#1027
No prob. U just have to wait cause am a newbie and not even know the skills yet. Have to master it before recording lap times. Hee.....
Don't know how to insert image. Keep error.
Find my pics here. Don't flame me pls.
http://www.file-upload.net/en/view-8..._0259.JPG.html
http://www.file-upload.net/en/view-8..._0260.JPG.html
http://www.file-upload.net/en/view-8..._0260.JPG.html
Don't know how to insert image. Keep error.
Find my pics here. Don't flame me pls.
http://www.file-upload.net/en/view-8..._0259.JPG.html
http://www.file-upload.net/en/view-8..._0260.JPG.html
http://www.file-upload.net/en/view-8..._0260.JPG.html
#1028
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Those pics look good! You have a really good setup to start with.
However, it looks like you have toe in in the rear, and toe out in the front. For racing this might hurt your times. I believe toe in in the rear and toe out in the front are good for stabilizing the car at higher speeds, at the expense of extra tire wear and performance.
Toe in in the rear means that the tires are pointing towards the chassis, or "in" and toe out in the front means your tires are pointing "out" away from the chassis. All of these directions are easy to see from the top view of your chassis.
Do you have regular toe rear blocks? Maybe I am just seeing things. Also I see adjustable turnbuckles up front. I would try 0 degrees toe (pointing straight forward)
I am not a racer, but this is something I've sorta picked up from lots of reading. I believe brrrrm described earlier in the thread how he does not use toe due to the slower performance that comes with it. It is slight, but still makes a difference.
However, it looks like you have toe in in the rear, and toe out in the front. For racing this might hurt your times. I believe toe in in the rear and toe out in the front are good for stabilizing the car at higher speeds, at the expense of extra tire wear and performance.
Toe in in the rear means that the tires are pointing towards the chassis, or "in" and toe out in the front means your tires are pointing "out" away from the chassis. All of these directions are easy to see from the top view of your chassis.
Do you have regular toe rear blocks? Maybe I am just seeing things. Also I see adjustable turnbuckles up front. I would try 0 degrees toe (pointing straight forward)
I am not a racer, but this is something I've sorta picked up from lots of reading. I believe brrrrm described earlier in the thread how he does not use toe due to the slower performance that comes with it. It is slight, but still makes a difference.
#1029
I was told to be better during the drift, adjusting the camber for the front is more impt thus my front tires are this way. Rear tires are needed for stability so 0 camber.
#1030
im running with my wheels cambered in so that they fit under the bodyshell because im running offset rims. if your rockin' plastic pipe tyres (ABS/PE/etc.) then camber really dont matter. But the other tyres may require other techniques. i have never used anything else but PE tyres, wouldnt mind giving abs a go...
#1031
Tech Rookie
#1032
28/55 for higher top speed but lesser torque than the rest right?
#1033
Tech Apprentice
You can go as far as 31x52 (FDR 4.36). See attached picture (courtesy of RaceBucks). With a CF chassis you can go as far as 40x60 (FDR 3.9). See post #835 and earlier for more info.
#1034
Tech Apprentice
#1035
Tamiya only has up to 25T Pinion and according to the chart, the HPIs are untested. Afraid it'll damage my car....