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Old 05-06-2008, 03:14 PM   #946
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I upgraded to the CF chassis because the bath tub chassis limits the gearing. I race against TA-05s that run with 4.1 gear ratios. The CF chassis allows me to run as low as 3.9.

Rafelli is absolutely correct. Speed alone does not make you competitive. Consistent, smooth and no mistakes driving does. You can only get that by practice, practice and more practice. And while you are at it, time your laps so that you can tell if you are getting better. Also, watch and learn from other drivers who have a faster driving technique.

Now I only add an upgrade when it makes the difference between overtaking or not. For example, I do not use toe-in at the rear, because I can go faster without it (= less friction).

The one thing I am experimenting with now is the body shape. I have the Toms Supra, Ford Focus and Nissan Skyline bodies. So far I have not detected much difference. Perhaps at our speeds the aerodynamics are not a significant factor.
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Old 05-06-2008, 05:43 PM   #947
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I am curious at what speeds does downforce or drag really affect performance. I forget what class you race in? stock, modified, etc?

Brrm for clarification I think you mean that the toe in means you have more friction where you want it--instead of wasting force both forwards and towards the center of the chassis, 0 Degrees toe puts all the drive straight on. Unless you want less friction at the ground...?

I really wish I had a RC club in my area. They have some off road tracks an hour away, but nothing on road--and I love drifting/asphault
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:57 PM   #948
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Hey Mooshu,

Yes, you are right about the friction. I don't want to waste any going inward.

I race in a 540 class.

From what literature I read is that a formula-1 car creates so much downforce at 80 mph that it could drive upside down! However, using the equations provided in Wikipedia , the downforce in rc car environment appears to be minimal. The cars are too small and the speeds are too low to have a significant effect. I wonder if anyone else has looked into this?

How did you go with the uprights?
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Old 05-07-2008, 12:12 AM   #949
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newbie question... how many motor turns can tt01 can?? currently i have duratrax 20t motor and i want more faster... thanks a lot
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:50 AM   #950
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I'm looking at getting some universal drive shafts to replace the 'lego' style dogbones. If I get the shafts do I need to change the diff cups or can I use the plastic standard stuff. Ideally I'd like to change both the shafts and the cups ( not the whole diffs ) any brands recommended ??
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:56 AM   #951
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you will need to upgrade outdrive too. The ball end of the plastic dogbone is way larger than that of the universal shafts
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:57 PM   #952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brrrrm View Post
Hey Mooshu,

Yes, you are right about the friction. I don't want to waste any going inward.

I race in a 540 class.

From what literature I read is that a formula-1 car creates so much downforce at 80 mph that it could drive upside down! However, using the equations provided in Wikipedia , the downforce in rc car environment appears to be minimal. The cars are too small and the speeds are too low to have a significant effect. I wonder if anyone else has looked into this?

How did you go with the uprights?


Was the question about the uprights directed towards me?

I know I was asking for problems when I dropped a 6900kV motor...

Anywho, I just drove my TT-01 around my larger driveway using the outer perimeter as a "track" and experimenting with how it drives with only FWD (if you remember earlier I broke a dogbone). However, I ran into another problem. After 15 or so minutes when I went to pull the throttle harder, I heard a screeching sound. At lower speeds it would not do this, but when more load was put on the drivetrain, it slipped.

This wasn't the first time--and the first time I ruined a spur gear when a bearing fell out of place (I had taken out the rear diff because as I said earlier, the car is FWD. The rear bearing behind the spur gear fell off, and the spur gear misaligned. I am not doing that again...).

I opened my car up, and was awaiting a horrified sight of a ruined spur gear, but only a small bit of the spur gear towards the aluminum shaft was worn. It looked like I had taken a file to the spinning gear for a short time, as the small pieces of plastic were hanging off like frills.

However, my pinion gear was almost all the way down the shaft, and I could not pull it off. The bottom part of the pinion looked grinded as well... And the grub screw as gone, and the hole was NOT over the flat spot of the shaft--so this was lodged.

Looking in the space under the spur gear, I saw some small particles of aluminum and plastic... and the grub screw was in the area under the spur gear too.

I was able to get the pinion off when I put oil down the shaft, and took a pair of pliers and wedged the pinion off. When I went to put the grub back in the pinion, there was a lot more resistance, like there were also small particles down there too. Also the outside of the pinion gear where it was once smooth, is now specked pretty uniformly, like small little scratches.


I am trying to figure out what happened. I am thinking that the grub flew out, causing the pinion to travel up and down. However, the soft alloy on the outside of the pinion somehow grinded, scratching the formerly smooth area of the pinion while sending more metal in the shaft. This caused a buildup that lodged the pinion on the shaft, and this was at the bottom of the armature shaft, and consequently, grinded the spur somehow...



Does anyone else with a similar setup have this happen? I am thinking about getting a lower kv motor, but I feel like this will happen with any mamba I get. So this just makes me want to get a TA-05 even more...
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:31 PM   #953
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Same thing has happened to me. The pinions from Tamiya are a soft aluminum and wear quickly. When the pinion outer diameter starts to deform or shrink, it does not make proper contact with the spur and eats the spur. Additionally, the mounting slots for the motor plate to have some slop in them so the motor wiggles when you apply throttle. That coupled with a deformed pinion, results in a new spur. Change to the metal motor plate if you donít already have one (helps but really is not all that secure) and get a steel pinion.
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Old 05-07-2008, 07:24 PM   #954
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I am going to be getting a used RS4 Rally from HPI (similar to the Pro 2). I really hope the car can handle the power... D:

And I do have the metal motor mount.
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Old 05-08-2008, 01:57 AM   #955
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I'm always damaging pinions and spur gears. I've flat spotted a delrin spur, and broken teeth on many kit 61t. The pinions seem to keep breaking up and those small pieces then get trapped in the spur and lock the drive train. I'm guessing its through dirt ingress into the drivetrain hence causing the breakages. The pinions I use are the aftermarket steel ones not the kit alloy.

It really is a weak point of the car. I carpark bash my TT01 with a few mates each night and between the lot of us guarenteed every night one of us is picking stones / steel shards from the pinion out of the spur gear.

Although this is a pain, I can't think of another car which can take the abuse of 'rubbing is racing' in dusty, dirty tarmac carparks. I've a carbon TT01 which I wouldn't try in these conditions and a TA05ms which I race on carpet, and neither of these would last 5 mins before the exposed spurs become damaged.

For all their faults they are great at what they do. I not sure if the tt01e has any parts which may help reduce these breakages. As far as I can see its just a upper brace, which most have fitted carbon anyhow, improved steering support, but most have alloy hop up, and the added motor cover and additional shock mounts. So I'm guessing no better.
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:55 AM   #956
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I intend to get a TT01d and I've called Stargek. They quoted me $400 without battery/charger. It's for those RTR Expert Built. Anywhere can get cheaper? Also, once I buy the set, which motor will be best? Thanks for replies.
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:57 AM   #957
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What's the prie dff for TT01d & TA05? I heard TA05 specs are better. Do
TA05 have as much spares as T01?
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:33 PM   #958
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Adrictan, Is that $400 USD? If so, that is too much. for an RTR, it should be at most $180 USD.

TA-05s are better for racing, but the TT-01 can take lots and lots of abuse. If you are racing in a club, I would suggest the Ta-05. If you feel like racing as an underdog in a race, get the TT-01 and prove them all wrong

The general idea out right now is that the TA-05 is a race car, while a TT-01 is a basher.


Martinst, I sorta feel the same way--yet lots of people race in dirty dusty carparks with even belt drive cars, and TC3/4s with the exposed spur and pinion.

I agree, the motor/pinion to spur gear is the weakest spot of the car. I mean, I think the plastic sorta melted a bit where my metal motor mount was because my BL motor got pretty hot.

This is why I bought an HPI Rally RS4. It has the covers and hopefully can keep things out of the chassis...

Does anyone else run a 6900 in these cars?
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:34 PM   #959
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TA-05s I believe have even more spares than TT-01s.
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:44 PM   #960
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Will Mooshu, it's $400 Singapore dollars. Anyone in SG has better places that sell cheaper? TA05 price?
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