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Old 04-02-2008, 05:36 AM   #886
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Which spring sets are best for the TT01, 53163, or 53333 short set ?
53440, all those you mention are a little on the soft side
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Old 04-02-2008, 02:52 PM   #887
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Thanks kavadni,

Also, can anyome recommend a motor upgrade for the TEU-101BK speed controller. What limit turns and output does it have ?

Thanks for your help,

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Old 04-03-2008, 06:51 AM   #888
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well finally got the carbon chassis, after much trial & error, i could not get the Pro4 spur gear adaptor to fit. the hole for the pin to lock into is too far back. the adaptor also rubs up on the rear gearbox because the sleeve is to thick for it to fit through to the back bearing.

Since i managed to smooth/strip out the teeth on both my 61T spur & 19T pinion, i had a 67T spur for a DF02 laying around so decided to use that. it fitted straight onto the joint without the need of shims or nothing, & is the exact same thickness of the standard TT01 spurs. the spur fitted perfect between the top and bottom plates, it didnt even stick out the bottom which i thought it would. i also fitted a 21T pinion which gives me an 8.30FDR, awesome ratio for drifting. If you wanted to fit a bigger pinion with this spur, you would need to modify the motor mount...
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:47 PM   #889
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... i had a 67T spur for a DF02 laying around so decided to use that. it fitted straight onto the joint without the need of shims or nothing, & is the exact same thickness of the standard TT01 spurs. the spur fitted perfect between the top and bottom plates, it didnt even stick out the bottom which i thought it would. i also fitted a 21T pinion which gives me an 8.30FDR, awesome ratio for drifting. If you wanted to fit a bigger pinion with this spur, you would need to modify the motor mount...
This is interesting; a 67T Tamiya gear that fits? It is also in the pattern of 3's with a non-existant 64T missing (67, (64), 61, 58, 55, 52). I've attached an untested gear ratio assuming that the pattern of 4 motor holes to a 3 tooth skipping spur still holds for these sizes. A 21T pinion doesn't follow the pattern to fit, but you say it does. Which motor position were you using?

Again, I'm not saying this will work, just that this is what the patterns indicate.
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Old 04-04-2008, 01:35 AM   #890
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Originally Posted by Drift Demon View Post
well finally got the carbon chassis, after much trial & error, i could not get the Pro4 spur gear adaptor to fit. the hole for the pin to lock into is too far back. the adaptor also rubs up on the rear gearbox because the sleeve is to thick for it to fit through to the back bearing.
That is disappointing, because I fitted the adaptor without any problems. See post 774 and 779.
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Old 04-04-2008, 04:12 AM   #891
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brrrm - i know bud, but for some reason it just dont fit properly, my next test i will try a spur gear hub from an EVO IV..

RaceBucks - Im using the carbon chassis mate, & the motor is positioned in the furtherest spot from the spur..
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Old 04-04-2008, 03:11 PM   #892
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I also forgot to mention - the carbon chassis is spectacular! way way lighter, the gearing seems to be much quieter now too. Though the steering posts need to be stiffened up a bit by using the front stiffner from the square range. Im using RPM tierod ends for my steering links & servo, there really tight on the ball but remove all the slop. I can see when i full turn to one side the steering posts move the slightest little bit even though i screwed them in as much as they could go. i also used 2 layers of clear contact (used for covering books & the like) to use as an under chassis protection, dont wanna be wrecking that carbon anytime soon...

will post a pic when i clean her up
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Old 04-04-2008, 04:48 PM   #893
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Does all that slop and give in the chassis have much of an effect on performance, you think?

Can't wait for pictures though. I am sure it looks beautiful

Also, where do you get your stuff?

Oh, and does anyone have the dobgone and shaft coming out of the diff that I can buy?
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Old 04-06-2008, 11:34 PM   #894
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guiys...where to get the carbon chassis for TT01...hehe

want to upgrade
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:08 AM   #895
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rcmart!
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:18 AM   #896
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Is anyone else running the carbon 3racing chassis and the tamiya rear roll bar. Using the existing screw holes to mount the roll bar the alloy block covers the screw holes for the topdeck to rear diff housing. The screws fit in but the heads won't pass the alloy.

Is the sollution to machine the alloy away at the screw locations ?




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Old 04-07-2008, 02:44 PM   #897
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I have heard about people countersinking something in the carbon chassis--I think they might be referring to the aluminum you are talking about.

My question is that is this more of an aesthetic reason, or functional? If it were me, I would leave it like that and not machine away aluminum.


Okay guys, I pretty sure I am going to order from RC mart.

GPM (#TT010) Alloy Drive Washer Set For TT01 (BU)
Tamiya (#51003) B Parts (Suspension Arm) For TT01
Tamiya (#51002) A Parts (Upright) For TT01
GPM (#TT200) Urethane Foam Bumper -1Pc (BK)
Tamiya (#51008) Bevel Gear Set For TT01, TGS
3Racing (#TT01-17/WO) Graphite Upper Deck For TT-01 (BK)
(2) 3Racing (#TT01-16/HD) Dog Bone For TT-01
3Racing (#TT01-02) Diff. Outer Join For Tamiya TT-01

GPM (#TT160) Alloy Completed Tie Rod Set (BU)

Yeah Racing (#TT-042BU) Alloy Bearing Steering Set (BU) For TT01
GPM (#TT048) Alloy Steering Assembly Set (BU) For TT01

Bold means I am sure I will get it. Everything in italics is unsure.

1) I am not sure if I really need the graphite upper deck--though I just found a crack in the back of my chassis on the right side of the motor mount. So I think the stiffener will help me out there.

2) Has anyone had experience wit the 3 racing dogbones or CVDs? Which do you recommend? The only reason why I am preferring the Dogbones is because i can get 4 dogbones for cheaper than I can get 2 CVDs. I dunno if one is more advantageous than the other.

3) Also has anyone had experience with either the Yeah Racing or GPM steering sets? Is either one better than the other? Or has anyone had good experience with one?

4) How strong are the GPM tire rods?

Thanks a bunch
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:28 PM   #898
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Originally Posted by Martinst View Post
Is anyone else running the carbon 3racing chassis and the tamiya rear roll bar. Using the existing screw holes to mount the roll bar the alloy block covers the screw holes for the topdeck to rear diff housing. The screws fit in but the heads won't pass the alloy.

Is the sollution to machine the alloy away at the screw locations ?
I drilled counter sunk holes in the upper deck and used a small piece of plastic sheet as a spacer under the block, because the screws are not completely flush with the upper deck's surface.
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:57 PM   #899
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I am still looking for feedback of what people think about the:

1) GPM tire rods
2) 3 racing versus GPM swing shafts
3) Swing shafts versus dogbone
4) GPM or yeah racing steering sets

I hate asking these questions, but I really would like to know if they are really worth getting, because I want to make sure I am getting something I won't regret from halfway across the world.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:06 AM   #900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooshu Beef View Post
I am still looking for feedback of what people think about the:

1) GPM tire rods
2) 3 racing versus GPM swing shafts
3) Swing shafts versus dogbone
4) GPM or yeah racing steering sets

I hate asking these questions, but I really would like to know if they are really worth getting, because I want to make sure I am getting something I won't regret from halfway across the world.
Swing shafts (universals) are really only helpful for the front wheels of a touring car. You can do all four corners and it won't hurt anything (other than your wallet). But because of the extra stresses on the front - both drive and steering - they're more useful on the front than the rear. They'll give you more precise steering. I happen to have Tamiya universals on all corners of my TT-01R but only on the front of my TA-05.
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