R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-18-2008, 11:07 PM   #871
Tech Addict
 
RaceBucks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca.
Posts: 512
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default Final Drive Ratio's

The HPI 0.6m pinions came in the mail today. I put a shim in the 52T spur (rather than tape so that I can change spurs quickly) and ran the pinions up to 31T; they mess fine and run fast, very fast!

I've now tested every combination from the 19T pinion 61T spur (FDR 8.35) to the 31T pinion 52T spur (FDR 4.36). I have every pinion from 19-31T and the 61, 58, 55, and 52T spur.

Now that all the combo's have been tested I'm attaching the updated table.
Attached Thumbnails
TT-01 Forum-pinions.jpg  
__________________
"We face each other as God intended. Sportsman-like. No tricks, skill against skill alone." -Fezzik
RaceBucks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2008, 04:24 PM   #872
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 75
Default

RaceBucks, you did a great research job there. I am considering getting the HPI gears too, so that I have a bit more flexibility in my gear selection. I currently run the HPI spur gear adapter with a 65T spur and 40T pinion which gives an FDR of 4.23. Whilst this is fast on the straights, it is slower in the corners (with 540 silver can). Ideally I'd like a range between 4.8 and 4.2.
brrrrm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2008, 03:53 AM   #873
Tech Initiate
 
Martinst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 27
Default

Hi I'm looking for some help on a few issues on my TT01 -

1. Do I need the adjustable upper arms front and rear to fit the tamiya stabilisers ? I currently have the alloy upper arms but looking at images of the stabilisers fitted on this thread it appears the adjustables are the way to go.

2. What is a good all round gear ratio for a 27t motor. Not looking for great topend and the tracks I run are generally quite mixed with a tight in field and only one reasonable straight. I'm currently running a 60t delrin spur with a 23t pinion.

3. I am having issues with the spur and pinions getting damaged during racing. Usually after a spin / shunt the spur keeps getting stones etc locking it up and damaging the pinion. I am baffled as to how these are entering the sealed drivetrain as I check the cleanliness of the car prior / post assembly.
My only guess is that during a shunt / spin the chassis is flexing and the spur and pinion are briefly seperating and causing damage to gears.
I've tried using a closer mesh by dropping down a mounting hole ( alloy motor mount ) I've tried after market pinions, delrin spurs, but still not found a resolve.
Martinst is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2008, 04:15 AM   #874
Tech Champion
 
asw7576's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,792
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks View Post
The HPI 0.6m pinions came in the mail today. I put a shim in the 52T spur (rather than tape so that I can change spurs quickly) and ran the pinions up to 31T; they mess fine and run fast, very fast!

I've now tested every combination from the 19T pinion 61T spur (FDR 8.35) to the 31T pinion 52T spur (FDR 4.36). I have every pinion from 19-31T and the 61, 58, 55, and 52T spur.

Now that all the combo's have been tested I'm attaching the updated table.
Wow.....

Do you have pictures of 52T spur gear ?
__________________
On Road : Xray NT1 , RX8 , T4 || Mugen Seiki MRX4-R , MTX4 , MTX3 prospec || Tamiya M03 , M04 || Top Racing Sabre FD2
Off Road : Xray XT8 || Hobao Hyper 8
Radio : Futaba 3PKS || KO propo EX-10 eurus
asw7576 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2008, 05:34 PM   #875
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 75
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinst View Post
Hi I'm looking for some help on a few issues on my TT01 -

1. Do I need the adjustable upper arms front and rear to fit the tamiya stabilisers ? I currently have the alloy upper arms but looking at images of the stabilisers fitted on this thread it appears the adjustables are the way to go.

2. What is a good all round gear ratio for a 27t motor. Not looking for great topend and the tracks I run are generally quite mixed with a tight in field and only one reasonable straight. I'm currently running a 60t delrin spur with a 23t pinion.

3. I am having issues with the spur and pinions getting damaged during racing. Usually after a spin / shunt the spur keeps getting stones etc locking it up and damaging the pinion. I am baffled as to how these are entering the sealed drivetrain as I check the cleanliness of the car prior / post assembly.
My only guess is that during a shunt / spin the chassis is flexing and the spur and pinion are briefly seperating and causing damage to gears.
I've tried using a closer mesh by dropping down a mounting hole ( alloy motor mount ) I've tried after market pinions, delrin spurs, but still not found a resolve.
1. If the alloy arms have holes in them to fit a bracket, then you should use the bracket. The adjustable plastic arms have a bracket built in.

2. Have a look at the chart that RaceBucks published a few posts earlier. If you go for a lower final drive ratio (FDR) then you will get better top speed and will do well in the straights. With a lower FDR you will brake & accellerate better in the corners, but have lower top speed. So it depends on your driving style and the competition (if you're racing). I run 4.83 during qualifying as I can go around the corners faster without any one there and 4.23 during racing when I can hog the inside corners and go fast on the straights.

3. The drive train cover on the bath tub chassis does not not separate so much to allow stones getting in as I am sure you tightened the screws adequately. I think that when you are running 60 x 23 the mounting holes may not give you the correct clearance. Refer to RaceBucks chart. Try 58 x 23.
brrrrm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2008, 05:40 PM   #876
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 75
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Wow.....

Do you have pictures of 52T spur gear ?
Have a look at post 805
brrrrm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2008, 10:31 AM   #877
Tech Addict
 
32819toon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North of England
Posts: 570
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default my 1st meeting with my new TT01

Here is a brief summary of my first meeting with my new TT01, my first electric meeting since 1987 !!

The car is fully ball raced, has an alloy motor mount, alloy steering and drive shaft, and a touring car body. First of all, the silver can motor was way too slow with the standard gearing. I found the car to lack turn in on what is a very tight narrow track. I started with full tyre treatment all round, and by the time I got to the final, I had none on the back tyres, just the front. This made the car quite stable, but still not "planted" if you know what I mean. I started with Kyosho 37 shore foams all round, but changed to 42 shore on the back.

Going forward I need :-

1.) better gear ratio to give more punch out of the corners. Can anyone recommend a suitable gear ratio ?

2.) softer front springs. Does anyone know the part number I need ?

By the way..... I won my final !! hip hip horray !!!! - mainly by driving cleanly and keeping away from the carnage around me !!

Any advice is most welcome.

Thanks,

32819toon
__________________
32819toon
Yokomo BD7 RS, Modified Spec-R S1, Schumacher GT12, Tamiya M03, M05, M01, M03RWD, MF01-X, BSR M-Rage, ABC Gambado, Associated TC4.
32819toon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2008, 01:05 PM   #878
Tech Addict
 
32819toon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North of England
Posts: 570
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Tamiya springs

Which spring sets are best for the TT01, 53163, or 53333 short set ?
__________________
32819toon
Yokomo BD7 RS, Modified Spec-R S1, Schumacher GT12, Tamiya M03, M05, M01, M03RWD, MF01-X, BSR M-Rage, ABC Gambado, Associated TC4.
32819toon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2008, 01:21 PM   #879
Tech Addict
 
RaceBucks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca.
Posts: 512
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
Which spring sets are best for the TT01, 53163, or 53333 short set ?
If you have the Super Mini CVA Shocks I'd go with the short shock set. I use this set on my Mini Cooper and they are fine, when I tried them on the stock TT-01 they were too short.

Strange comment about being too slow with standard gearing AND looking for more puch out of the corners; gotta pick which you want. On the gear ratios, if you are running Brushed 27 turn or so then start with gear ratio's around 7 and adj for track conditions, if you are still using the silver can try 5 or less; see the chart in post #871 in this thread.
__________________
"We face each other as God intended. Sportsman-like. No tricks, skill against skill alone." -Fezzik
RaceBucks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2008, 01:25 PM   #880
Tech Addict
 
32819toon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North of England
Posts: 570
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the reply RaceBucks
__________________
32819toon
Yokomo BD7 RS, Modified Spec-R S1, Schumacher GT12, Tamiya M03, M05, M01, M03RWD, MF01-X, BSR M-Rage, ABC Gambado, Associated TC4.
32819toon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2008, 06:06 AM   #881
Tech Fanatic
 
Blueshark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 769
Default Just to share

More videos and pictures of my basher.... Just to share.

Man..real fast this time! Power. Can do power skids as if its on ABS drifting on asphalt using radials.

Still sounding like plane..or rocket. lol.

Vid 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEWF2dAJuVw

This is what happened after the 1st run. good thing i brought spares. Check out the thick fat wires to handle the current.





11 cells test (After the tires got ripped up...on the heavier side...)


12 cells test


And after a couple of packs, the screws on holding the motor came loose. I noticed that using the MM causes screws to get real loose by themselves..must use thread lock...oh well.

Car went so fast it was drifting to a side...then it happened, the big flip, skid for almost 20m on its top and this is how it looks after... but still..nothing broke! cool.



Still looks sweet.
Blueshark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2008, 09:08 AM   #882
Tech Fanatic
 
Mooshu Beef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: State of Insanity
Posts: 790
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Wow, that is fast!

I am driving a 6900 at 6 cells, and I am still getting used to the speed at 20:61.

Okay. So I only clipped a wall. This is what happened.







So basically, the left side knuckles shattered, with the rear knuckle broken in 3 places, and the front stub that connects to the lower arm broke. The dogbone snapped and a tire rod broke as well.

Right now I have it as RWD, and I luckily had extra knuckles to replace them, and an old tire rod that I popped on. Only, the handling is very bad--it just wants to spin out.

Do you guys think it is worth it to get alloy knuckles? And how are the GPM tire rods?
__________________
I am a man of few words.
Mooshu Beef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2008, 11:04 AM   #883
Tech Initiate
 
tcv_dynamics's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sagamihara shi, Japan
Posts: 35
Default TT01 off road

post deleted..

wrong thread sorry..
tcv_dynamics is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2008, 11:25 AM   #884
Tech Fanatic
 
Mooshu Beef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: State of Insanity
Posts: 790
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

I forgot to ask does anyone have an extra dogbone and diff gear that turns the dogbone?

I would be extremely obliged if someone did... obviously I would pay for it and shipping.
__________________
I am a man of few words.
Mooshu Beef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2008, 11:13 PM   #885
Tech Fanatic
 
Blueshark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 769
Default

wow, quite a lot of damage! the steel knuckles should work well. i have a kit that has the mods but have not tried the MM5700 on it..yet.

think you can order the parts off RCmart. Or tower hobbies? i prefer the stock plastic parts though, as they can take some flexing and abuse and not really crack or break and cause damage to the motor, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooshu Beef View Post
Wow, that is fast!

I am driving a 6900 at 6 cells, and I am still getting used to the speed at 20:61.

Okay. So I only clipped a wall. This is what happened.







So basically, the left side knuckles shattered, with the rear knuckle broken in 3 places, and the front stub that connects to the lower arm broke. The dogbone snapped and a tire rod broke as well.

Right now I have it as RWD, and I luckily had extra knuckles to replace them, and an old tire rod that I popped on. Only, the handling is very bad--it just wants to spin out.

Do you guys think it is worth it to get alloy knuckles? And how are the GPM tire rods?
Blueshark is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM


Tags
drift


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:11 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0