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Old 02-22-2008, 05:02 AM   #796
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First time I raced the TT01, I had to pay extra attention since the car would wander side-to-side because of the slop in the steering. It wobbles side to side and up and down. I solved this using the aluminum steering bellcranks and shimmed/sanded the brass bushing that pinches the bellcrank bearings for snug fit. That solved the up and down wobble.

Next would be to replace the simple steering links with turnbuckles/ballcups assemblies. After snappng on the the ballcups to the ball studs, twist the two ball cups to take up any slop. After this, the only slop left would be from the pivot balls on the knuckle arms.

Here's a previous post of mine. It might help


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Imel24 : the aluminum steering is really necessary as it eliminates side-to-side and up-and-down slop. That's a major reduction. There's a bushing that goes inside the steering arm bearings. You can sand these down to match the arm's bearing heigt to eliminate up and down play.

You can also sand down the bushings of the bridge that links the two steering cranks together, or just shim it to eliminate up and down play.

Another source of slop is the part of the front upright that goes into the pivot ball inside the upper and lower arm. The part that goes into the ball is sometimes too thin, you can wrap a layer of scotchtape to take up some of the looseness. You can either wrap enough tape and still let the front upright turn inside the ball or wrap more tape for tight fit with the ball; in this case the ball will start turning inside the cavity of the arms.

after the upright/arms become snug, use turnbuckles,ball studs and ball cups for the steering links and twist the steering links to take out any slop.
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Old 02-22-2008, 05:14 AM   #797
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First time I raced the TT01, I had to pay extra attention since the car would wander side-to-side because of the slop in the steering. It wobbles side to side and up and down. I solved this using the aluminum steering bellcranks and shimmed/sanded the brass bushing that pinches the bellcrank bearings for snug fit. That solved the up and down wobble.

Next would be to replace the simple steering links with turnbuckles/ballcups assemblies. After snappng on the the ballcups to the ball studs, twist the two ball cups to take up any slop. After this, the only slop left would be from the pivot balls on the knuckle arms.

Here's a previous post of mine. It might help


Quote:
Originally Posted by rough512 View Post
Imel24 : the aluminum steering is really necessary as it eliminates side-to-side and up-and-down slop. That's a major reduction. There's a bushing that goes inside the steering arm bearings. You can sand these down to match the arm's bearing heigt to eliminate up and down play.

You can also sand down the bushings of the bridge that links the two steering cranks together, or just shim it to eliminate up and down play.

Another source of slop is the part of the front upright that goes into the pivot ball inside the upper and lower arm. The part that goes into the ball is sometimes too thin, you can wrap a layer of scotchtape to take up some of the looseness. You can either wrap enough tape and still let the front upright turn inside the ball or wrap more tape for tight fit with the ball; in this case the ball will start turning inside the cavity of the arms.

after the upright/arms become snug, use turnbuckles,ball studs and ball cups for the steering links and twist the steering links to take out any slop.
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:01 AM   #798
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Help please. My on-road TT01 has this tendency to steer to the right even if the steering wheel in the controller is in a straight position. I tried to adjust the steering trim to the left, but my kit still steers to the right. I don't know where the problem is and what I should do with it. Please help me how to correct this flaw. Many thanks!
Did you center the servo (apply power) before you attached the servo saver?
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Old 02-22-2008, 11:54 AM   #799
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Did you center the servo (apply power) before you attached the servo saver?
Yes, I did center the servo before I attached the saver. I guess the problem lies in the sloppiness of the steering assembly.
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Old 02-22-2008, 01:37 PM   #800
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Originally Posted by green_overcomer View Post
...I guess the problem lies in the sloppiness of the steering assembly.
While large amounts of "sloppiness" is something to be avoided, since you say it's always to the right I would first suspect binding or imbalanced weight on the right side. Some "slop" is good, too tight and the servo won't center properly. I put mine through all the guages to make it drive straight but with the LiPo's being so light the car pulled to the left until I weighted it.
If it's still a mystery take it to a track and have someone look at it.
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:47 PM   #801
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hi, if your into bashing and not to racing (tamiya race) i would suggest burn your tamiya stock servo saver and replace with other servo saver.
this will solve tens of your problems.
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Originally Posted by green_overcomer View Post
Help please. My on-road TT01 has this tendency to steer to the right even if the steering wheel in the controller is in a straight position. I tried to adjust the steering trim to the left, but my kit still steers to the right. I don't know where the problem is and what I should do with it. Please help me how to correct this flaw. Many thanks!
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:24 PM   #802
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green_overcomer,

I will agree with racebucks, it's most likely binding if it's always to the right and you can not trim it out.

Try loosening the kingpins (screws top and bottom of front uprights) and all the pivot points of the steering mechanism. See if that fixes it.

The plastic compresses as the screws are tightened. This can be the cause of binding.

Kevin
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Old 02-23-2008, 01:56 PM   #803
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From the picture at the Robinson web site it looks like the spur gear would fit directly onto the HPI spur gear adapter. The HPI spur gear adapter takes 3 mm diameter screws. I use 6 mm long counter sunk screws. You may have to drill the counter sunk hole on the spur gear to make sure the screws are flush. Be careful when you do that so you don't drill all the way through.
Cheers for that brrrrm, it says on the robinson website that these spurs are half the thickness & have a less rotating mass, so i may not need to drill countersink holes! Im trying to make my TT01 as free spinning, binding-free & light as possible. Its still only a drift car, but doing these things will put less strain on the drivetrain & motor, I have already been through a few motors that have died from overheating, also another reason why im grabbing the carbon chassis, the chassis layout is more open & looks to be that more air can get to the motor...
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Old 02-23-2008, 02:19 PM   #804
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Hey guys quick question, hopefully an essay answer. Which would you recommend for someone who wants to get into the hobby and do a few races on the weekends and has some time during the week to hop up and/or repair there RC... The HPI Sprint or TT-01?

I have the HPI Sprint now and it’s great and all but I still feel that it could be better (build quality wise)… and the TT-01 being shaft driven really caught my eye. As my Sprint seems to get all kinds of rocks stuck in the rear belt and ripping it up. And the TT-01 seems to have far more hop ups than the Sprint.

Any input would be great guys/gals as I’m new to this hobby… also any hop ups you’d recommend that won’t break the bank would be cool to.
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:29 PM   #805
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Bucks,
I have attached a picture which contains the spur gear where will you sand some parts off?
52T Spur update:
The 52T spur came in this week, I did have to do some mods to the gear, but when I ran time tests today for TCS it made the car really fast, and the motor REALLY hot. Last weeks laps were 19.3 seconds ave with various pinions and 55T spur, this weeks was 18.3 with the 52T; however, the motor was 196 degrees after a 3 minute test! Motor wires are looking a little charred. Drive ratio's were 4.8 and 4.6.

Made 2 mods to the 52T to make it work, but I think it needs 3:
1) From oME's picture from a couple weeks ago the yellow area needs to be sanded down so that it doesn't rub. Sand so that it is flush with the rim of the spur gear or below.
2) Also, the outside diameter of the shaft in the red area needs to be thinned (not shortened, but thinned) to prevent it's rubbing.
3) Something needs to fill the gap between the 6mm ID of the 52T spur and the 5mm drive shaft. I didn't run anything today and it worked, but as a guy at the track pointed out, as soon as you get hit that pin will pop out and that will end your race. I liked brrrrm's idea of glueing in a 6mm spacer and drilling it out to 5mm. Will probably do that this week.

Can't tell you how many comments I got today on how fast the car is running; lots of the fast guys noticed. Excited to make this $100 car run well at TCS next week.
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TT-01 Forum-rommel-f201.jpg  
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Old 02-23-2008, 10:03 PM   #806
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RaceBucks It is really cool to see someone getting out of the 58 or 55 spur gears! Good luck with making it smoother...

04 Fire, I don't know much about the Sprint, but I know that Shaft is so much more convenient for driving where there are pebbles and such. There are basically no moving parts of the drivetrain exposed. However, I dunno how handling compares between the two.

One bad thing right now (that is being remedied by Racebucks) is that there aren't many gearing options. Also, unless your LHS stocks extra parts for the TT-01, if you break something, you have to get the whole parts tree.

There are a bunch of option parts, but you have to do a lot of adding of parts to get a really stable car. Stock, the car does have slop here and there. If you are looking for top quality, you might want to look elsewhere. However, if you want to mod it and slowly build a dream car, the TT-01 is perfect
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:26 PM   #807
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Originally Posted by 04Fire View Post
Hey guys quick question, hopefully an essay answer. Which would you recommend for someone who wants to get into the hobby and do a few races on the weekends and has some time during the week to hop up and/or repair there RC... The HPI Sprint or TT-01?

I have the HPI Sprint now and it’s great and all but I still feel that it could be better (build quality wise)… and the TT-01 being shaft driven really caught my eye. As my Sprint seems to get all kinds of rocks stuck in the rear belt and ripping it up. And the TT-01 seems to have far more hop ups than the Sprint.

Any input would be great guys/gals as I’m new to this hobby… also any hop ups you’d recommend that won’t break the bank would be cool to.
Hy!

The HPI Sprint is compared to the TT01 the better car to sart racing.

1. You have it already

2. It have oil shocks and a full adjustable suspension al around.

3. If you want to upgrade a TT01 with the features a sprint have out of the box, you have to invest a lot of money.

4. But if the rear belt problem is an issue i would recomend you the Tamiya TB02, it is the plastic replica of the TB Evo 3 Surikarn, and it performs very well.
I think this chassis is very cheep to get at the moment, because its discontinued, (exept the TB02D(rift) kit). Many dealers around the world give discount on it.

I hope this helps a bit.

Greetings Blueman
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:51 PM   #808
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Thanks guys for your honest opinions!

I did see the crazy deals on the TB02... more than half off

If I can't find someone who makes a cover for the rear belt area of my Sprint I'll most definitely be checking out the TB02... which looks as though there’re quite a bit of hop ups for the TB02 to bring it up to TB EVO III status if I’m correct.

Again Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2008, 01:02 PM   #809
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The TT-01 is a great car, I have a out the box one with a few mods for car park bashing and a hopped up one for some more competative stuff. Easy to drive and I found most enjoyment in buying the hop up parts ! ( blank out the cost )

Out the box- shelf model,




Hopped up car park fun:




Full hopped up:

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Old 02-24-2008, 02:52 PM   #810
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The TT-01 is a great car, I have a out the box one with a few mods for car park bashing and a hopped up one for some more competative stuff. Easy to drive and I found most enjoyment in buying the hop up parts ! ( blank out the cost )
HA OMG, DROOL... So is the last one a TT01 too?

Is it possible to have a parking lot beater and a track car rolled into one?
Or am I setting myself up for being dead last in every race
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