Tino Valachi

iTrader: (265)

just to let you guys know that i have a TT01 for sale , the car is like brand new with know body kit . im saleing roller only . i'm still learning how to get around these rc/tech system info

you can email me or txt me at (415) 554-0273
i can show you pix on email


TT01 - FOR SALE

jhwnissan

iTrader: (13)

Okay... now for the moment you've been waiting for. Here's the pictures of HOW I got a rollout of 4.01 .... I actually had 3.85 for a while till the gear mesh decided to crap out. No more cheap gears for me. Anywho.... on to the pictures.

First... The gear cover is going to be made into a clamping device, but needs to be able to fit the larger gears.


Second... The main gear will need an adaptor. This is the FF-03 gear adaptor that has had the center drilled out to fit the TT-01 shaft. I also took a pin to put in there and shaved it to perfectly fit the width of the shaft. This is VERY important as your gear goes over the top of the pin and helps hold it in. First you put the gear on, then slide the adapter, then slide the pin in... then you attach the gear to the adapter. It sounds complicated but works pretty easily once you get the parts.


Lastly... I took an old Losi Street Weapon motor plate and ground it to fit into the TT-01 motor mount location. If you can't find one, you simply need to find a piece of metal thick enough and just drill the holes and cut to size. Because the "clamp" that is the top piece is thick, you will need to add washers when attaching the motor so that the top will close and clamp properly. You simply rotate the motor mount in the slot to adjust the gear mesh... just like old times.


This is what it looks like when finished. I'm sure I didn't answer all questions, but hopefully that will give you guys a good start on thinking about re-gearing to be more competitive.


I race USVTA and have come in 3rd every week so far except for last week... last week I got 2nd. Still rocking kit shocks with super stiff springs in front and stiff springs in back. Works like a champ and have been fortunate to not break a single component. Rock on Tamiya! Hope this helps others.

jhwnissan

iTrader: (13)

And.. here's the body I race with that TT-01. Leading the points race.... kit shocks and all.

jhwnissan

iTrader: (13)

Got my Wippler aluminum screw kit installed. Boy does this thing fly and I have yet to do big upgrades. Anyone else racing USVTA?

jhwnissan

iTrader: (13)

And now... I've got it converted fully over to an E. Won the B-Main last week with kit shocks and the normal TT kit. Hope the TRF shocks smooth things out even more. Heck, I'm just glad to have a transponder holder.

ChristianSmith

iTrader: (1)

Anyone selling any used Adjustable Arms for TT-01 ( Not for TT-01D or TT-01E ) Unless they are all the same chassis and you can use the on a normal TT-01. Ill take it for $20 plus shipping..

Also if anyone is selling a brand new Front one way ( Never used, Must be never used! ) im up for it,I want it about $20 plus shipping..

b.wihardja

with such modifications, whether he is strong enough to be paired with 13.5t motors with boost and turbo?

Spawne32

been trying to find extended battery posts for 3S lipo but cant find them anywhere, anyone know if the velcro straps will work just as good?

jhwnissan

iTrader: (13)

It sure be just fine to run with a 13.5 and boost. However, remember that if you are racing other touring cars... you are going to be behind. This chassis is MUCH harder to drive than other touring cars.

jhwnissan

iTrader: (13)

Velcro straps should work just fine. Worst case is that you have to find some velcro and make your own extended ones for the taller packs.

Spawne32

What are you guys running motor wize, was looking at trying to stuff a 540 long in there with a new ESC but im not sure if the 25T pinion gear will fit the 4mm shaft on the motor. Also trying to get the slop out of the suspension in the front control arms, found a video on youtube of a guy using set screws in his diff cover but he wont list the size of the set screws, he just says you have to buy them off him.

jhwnissan

iTrader: (13)

I'm just running a normal 25.5 Novak brushless motor. I never seem to have problems with pinions and I've crammed a 41 tooth in there(64pitch). I doubt I would try and eliminate slop in the front arms. At the end of the day, you're just adding another variable to get hung up or a place to break once you start drilling holes like that. The slop is there for a reason. If you don't want slop, get a TA-05 or something. The car has a ton of grip and is simple. That's why it's fun to drive in slower classes while racing. If you aren't racing, that's a whole different story.

Spawne32

I got my yeah racing aluminum front knuckles and wheel hubs today and im incredibly happy i bough them. The plastic parts are absolute junk, the molds must be completely wrong from the factory. When I first assembled it the wheels would wobble and pull in and out of the knuckle, even with the bearings and wheel nut tightened all the way down, but with the new aluminum ones, all of that is gone, and the car finally tracks straight. Well at least as straight as it can lol

Ill probably invest in the 380XL motor from tacon, 4800kv and just go with the pinion and spur upgrade i bought, and that will be it. Should be plenty fast with the 70c 2S lipo to do donuts and such along with the posi rear.

Im actually looking at getting an associated sc8e now, my buddy wants me to run trucks, and since the small street cars are kinda limited around the neighborhood to pavement only, its kinda the logical choice since that thing can drive up curbs and go across lawns and stuff, where as the TT01 just stops as soon as it hits grass on any of the tires with the open diffs lol

terry.sc

Looked at the video and he gives away the sizes of the grub screws by listing what size hex drivers you need. The two sizes used are 8-32 and 10-32 in the shortest lengths you can find. If you are going to try this file the bottom of the grub screws flat so they don't wear away the arms.

Although the car is deliberately designed to have all that extra play.

terry.sc

Nothing wrong with the moulds or parts, Tamiya designs plenty of play in their basher cars deliberately.
The TT-01 isn't designed for performance, it's designed for durability and down to a price. It's designed for bashing with the kit motor on any reasonably flat surface and the play means it performs well on rough pavement, car parks and driveways without having to sweep the surface clean first. If you hit kerbs and walls the built in play means it will bounce off with no damage, while if you shim it up you will more likely break something, and if you stick lots of cheap alloy parts on it you are guaranteed to bend them.

If you want a car for performance with no play, get one of Tamiyas cars designed for it like the TA05, TB03, TA06 or TRF cars. They are so much better on the track, but I wouldn't want to try running them in the street.