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Old 12-22-2009, 04:17 PM   #1711
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Another issue he's having is the ball tends to pop off (the plastic ball that holds the knuckles to the control arms). Any help with that?
replace ball (p-parts)
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:22 PM   #1712
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If the driver is breaking shock towers, I would assume that the driver is spending some time on it's lid. If this is the case it's possible that the body posts are too tall.

The steering knuckles are a common problem for drivers with control issues. With the students I work with we have allowed them to buy aluminum steering knuckles. You can get them for $11 or $12 a pair. These are not Tamiya and would not be legal for a TCS race or on some tracks depending their rules. I have driven my TT01E a lot and I have broken one steering knuckle when I was taking a lap in a parking lot race without a body. A stupid move on my part. That is the only part I've broken on the car.

I agree with Gepetto. The TT01 is a very durable car. The kids I work with REALLY test them.
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:32 PM   #1713
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He's using a 27T stock motor and he wasn't even driving fast. Didn't look like he was hitting that much stuff... at least it seems like I was going faster and when I hit, I hit harder

Hmmm.... so either the TT01E or TT01 shock towers won't make much of a different?

And he should replace the balls for the control arm?
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:50 PM   #1714
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worse come to worse, he could get the carbon shock towers
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Old 12-23-2009, 05:40 AM   #1715
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Originally Posted by jcr View Post
He's using a 27T stock motor and he wasn't even driving fast. Didn't look like he was hitting that much stuff... at least it seems like I was going faster and when I hit, I hit harder

Hmmm.... so either the TT01E or TT01 shock towers won't make much of a different?

And he should replace the balls for the control arm?
Are you saying that the ball pops out of the control arm, or are you saying that the ball is coming off the knuckle (upright)? The fit of the ball into the control arm is pretty secure. I don't see how it could possibly pop out.

There is a cap (part: A1) and a screw that is supposed to hold the ball and control arm in place. If the screw is coming out causing the ball and control arm to come off the knuckle, the problem is not the ball. I'm not sure I understand what's happening.

I'm attaching a snapshots from the TT01e manual. See below:
Attached Thumbnails
TT-01 Forum-tt01-b.jpg   TT-01 Forum-tt01-.jpg  
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:56 AM   #1716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
Are you saying that the ball pops out of the control arm, or are you saying that the ball is coming off the knuckle (upright)? The fit of the ball into the control arm is pretty secure. I don't see how it could possibly pop out.

There is a cap (part: A1) and a screw that is supposed to hold the ball and control arm in place. If the screw is coming out causing the ball and control arm to come off the knuckle, the problem is not the ball. I'm not sure I understand what's happening.

I'm attaching a snapshots from the TT01e manual. See below:
It is P7, screw, and knuckle that pops out of the control arm. That means everything is still attached to the knuckle.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:13 AM   #1717
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Some people leave out the little plastic washer that goes with the screw.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:37 AM   #1718
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Sounds like the P7 ball is worn. We had a racer this past weekend with the same problem. Leant him a P7 ball from the "courtesy TT-01" and it fixed the problem.

try replacing P7
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:16 PM   #1719
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It is P7, screw, and knuckle that pops out of the control arm. That means everything is still attached to the knuckle.
I agree with Stitchy. Replace the P7 ball. I must admit, though, that I have never seen that happen. I guess that as they say, "there's a first time for everything".
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:04 PM   #1720
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mine are pretty sloppy, but have yet to pop out....
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:12 PM   #1721
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Great bullet proof car ^^

But i have one for sale if any one is interested.

Its on steriods so some upgrading might be needed to get its full potential =D
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:44 AM   #1722
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tt-01r e chasis matching all most pinion ? 40 ?
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:27 AM   #1723
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I need help from you guys,I'm new to all this


Are any modifications needed to fit a Team Orion 16T Machine Modified in my TT-01D? I got the motor with my second hand Xray T1R and I will transfer my Sports Tuned from the TT-01 to the T1R (Sports tuned is the control engine for my local club class). I'll keep the TT-01 for rallying.Obviously a new ESC is needed (stock Tamiya ESC wont support 16T ? )
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:18 AM   #1724
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I and some friends are running a super stock rz 23t motor with the standard ESC (27 rated). We use the car for bashing and for now, no problem at all.
Lower than 23t motors, maybe the ESC will get fried.
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:33 AM   #1725
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i am running a super stock RZ and the tamiya esc/reciever combo on my rally TT-01, it seems to overheat pretty quick, but i am also have the unit wrapped in a balloon for waterproofing.
also, i have a ezrun 60A with a 5.5t ezrun, i just switched to 3S lipos and am having quite a bit of "phantom" full throttle at distance, meaning i will not be pulling the throttle, but it will go full throttle and turn hard right.... any ideas?
thx.
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