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Old 12-16-2009, 03:42 AM   #1696
knd
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Hi all,

I recently bought a TT01 XB,with the standard silver can, ESC...etc... for bashing with some friends, and after reading (so much) info, I'm still a noob and have no experience in this, as it is my first RC car. I've read lots of pages in this special post (And others in this and other forums), so the questions I have may have been answered for sure, and so sorry for asking them again.
My goal is to....have fun only...maybe racing with some friends, some drift playing (only changing tires or moving to splipering ground) BUT...just for fun.
I'm asking your opinion in parts, as I want a little more accel and speed.

I have already bought the ball bearings (Tamiya Part 53497) and the Aluminium Propeller Joint & and Shaft (Tamiya Part 54026), and 2 batteries (1500NiCd and 4600 NiMh)

Parts needed to buy (help needed, opinion):
- 50357 Pinion Gear (22t/23t)
- 53665 Spur Gear Set (55T/58T)
- 53663 Ball Differential set (this is for the "rear")
- 53671 - Front one way differencial
(TT-01 front one way unit needs 53590 (TB01 cup joint) to be used when the vehicle is equipped with universals...are the universals needed???)
- 53666 Metal Motor mount
- Motor... here I need help. I want to stay brushed and using the standard ESC so the maximum I want is a SuperStock RZ/TZ or even a BZ,
other motors like Reedy Stockstar 27T 24 deg. Stock Motor #300.,33,200 rpm 145nm/m torque. Are they plug and fit like a standard Tamiya motor? need any adaptations? Help needed :P


Later....
- shocks
- stabilizer bars (maybe when I have motor mods installed and if the car understeers/oversteers too much for my driving style)

last question (for now)...is the 58 spur and 23 pinion gearing ratio, the "best" option for good accel/top speed/power consumption (don't want to drive 5 minutes and it will go off)

Thanks for those who read everything
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Old 12-16-2009, 05:35 AM   #1697
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Quote:
- Motor... here I need help. I want to stay brushed and using the standard ESC so the maximum I want is a SuperStock RZ/TZ or even a BZ,
other motors like Reedy Stockstar 27T 24 deg. Stock Motor #300.,33,200 rpm 145nm/m torque. Are they plug and fit like a standard Tamiya motor? need any adaptations? Help needed :P
Starting here - all these motors are too much for the kit ESC. It's only rated for the silvercan and the Sport Tuned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by knd View Post
I have already bought the ball bearings (Tamiya Part 53497) and the Aluminium Propeller Joint & and Shaft (Tamiya Part 54026), and 2 batteries (1500NiCd and 4600 NiMh)
Good buys.

Quote:
Parts needed to buy (help needed, opinion):
- 50357 Pinion Gear (22t/23t)
- 53665 Spur Gear Set (55T/58T)
The 24/25 pinion set is a better buy. Gives a good ratio on the silvercan or sport tuned motor. A lot faster than the kit gearing.

Quote:
- 53663 Ball Differential set (this is for the "rear")
- 53671 - Front one way differencial
(TT-01 front one way unit needs 53590 (TB01 cup joint) to be used when the vehicle is equipped with universals...are the universals needed???)
- 53666 Metal Motor mount
Not worth it. For bashing, the one-way will just make the car harder to drive, the ball diff is no benefit, and the metal motor mount does not solve the cars major problem of slop in the gear mesh.

Quote:
Later....
- shocks
- stabilizer bars (maybe when I have motor mods installed and if the car understeers/oversteers too much for my driving style)
Shocks can make a difference, but don't spend any more than the CVA plastic set.

Again, for bashing, stabilisers will have no benefit, certainly nothing you couldn't achieve without different damper oil.

Quote:
last question (for now)...is the 58 spur and 23 pinion gearing ratio, the "best" option for good accel/top speed/power consumption (don't want to drive 5 minutes and it will go off)

Thanks for those who read everything
You should get plenty of run time from the silvercan, even on the highest gearing. When I race my TT-01 I use about 1000mAh in a 5 minute race, and racing uses up a lot more capacity than bashing.

A TT-01 is at its best with a fairly basic set of upgrades. If you spend a lot of money on it, dont expect it to perform any better, but depending on your tastes it may look better or be more fun to work on.
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:12 PM   #1698
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Whats a good gearing for a 10.5 or a 13.5? Im thinking to gear it as high as possible, which I believe is 25/55, right? Just curious
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:13 PM   #1699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peetiewonder View Post
when i rallied mine i cut the rear plates so the swing arms could go lower and i could put longer shocks on it. it gave me about an inch of ground clearance. I even cleared some triples with it before i learned why slipper clutches are important
Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:39 PM   #1700
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knd:

I also have a TT01 for bashing. my experience is this: keep the tt01 as simple as possible. only upgrade the parts you think you will need.

you have already upgraded some essential parts like ball bearings and alu. shaft.

you may consider alu steering unit to minimize the slop, metal motor mount, oil filled dampers and universals for the front.

to me, that should be enough. other parts just keep it stock.

for 1-way or ball diff or spool .... it's really your driving style, it will not make the car go stronger or faster etc... I see the stock bevel gear very good match with a bashing tt01 as it is very strong and its dust proof.

if you change it to ball diff, you may get better diff action, but you will also need to clean the balls, flatten the plates on a regular basis. and if you happen to over tightened or make the diff too loose, you may burnt you ball diff.

for front 1-way, you will only get rear braking, so you have to slow down the car earlier and glide into the corner

for spool, you can have late breaking, but you will be stressing the esc, motor and all the moving parts

anyway, if you stay in rc and want to race later, its better to invest in a better 'race-ready' car, like a ta05. this is just my opinion.

Last edited by hardmankam; 12-16-2009 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 12-17-2009, 03:25 AM   #1701
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thank you all.
If I update the ESC to ESC TEU-302BK (23t...can get a very cheap one), is the super stock rz a good choice for the price? any recommendations?
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:37 PM   #1702
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Asking this for a friend of mine. He recently found that the shock towers on his TT01R breaks easily. I was reading the TT-01E has stronger shock towers and I was wondering what it is needed to run the TT-01E shock towers on the TT-01? Do I just need to order 51318 or do I need more parts?
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:58 PM   #1703
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The shock towers and diff covers are one piece on the TT01 and they are separate pieces on the TT01E.
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:59 PM   #1704
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Originally Posted by MD View Post
The shock towers and diff covers are one piece on the TT01 and they are separate pieces on the TT01E.
Yes, I know...but what parts do I need to convert it to the TT01E setup?
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Old 12-22-2009, 02:03 PM   #1705
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I don't have my manual handy, but you can download an "E" manual from the Tamiya website and you can get the part numbers from it. Also, the steering knuckles are beefier on the "E," and the steering rack is better. You may want order those.
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Old 12-22-2009, 02:06 PM   #1706
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Looks like the A and D parts are the only difference.... but for the gear case/bulkhead they're on A Parts. So if I get the A parts, everything will fit together without problem?
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Old 12-22-2009, 02:23 PM   #1707
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I think so, because the chassis is the same.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:19 PM   #1708
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jcr: I'm not sure that switching to the TT01-E shock towers will help your friend. I believe the material they are made from is the same. The real benefit of the TT01-E shock mount is that it has 2 shock mounting positions (rear), and having it makes maintenance a bit easier.

If he/she is breaking the front shock tower consistently, I would recommend going for the larger TT01 bumper to help prevent breaking front end parts. Funny, I've seen steering knuckles break, but not the shock mount.

We have a TT01 spec class that has seen as many as 29 cars. Driver skill level ranges from beginners to very advanced drivers. The only breakage I can remember seeing is the front steering knuckles and the steering pivot point that screws into the chassis.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:27 PM   #1709
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interesting... for some reason it breaks at the body post part of the shock tower (front and rear). I heard that the TT01E has different material in the shock tower and knuckles.

Another issue he's having is the ball tends to pop off (the plastic ball that holds the knuckles to the control arms). Any help with that?
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:02 PM   #1710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcr View Post
interesting... for some reason it breaks at the body post part of the shock tower (front and rear). I heard that the TT01E has different material in the shock tower and knuckles.

Another issue he's having is the ball tends to pop off (the plastic ball that holds the knuckles to the control arms). Any help with that?
I don't know what to say about the shock tower breaking. Both front and rear, seems really weird. Two questions: What is the skill level of this racer? What motor is he/she running? Limited skill and fast motor usually = many broken parts.

If the control arm keeps coming off, my guess would be that it's because the screw has stripped the inside of the of the stem it screws into. It may be possible to build the inside of the stem up with a couple light coatings of CA.

The TT01 is a very durable and race-worthy kit. It's like a tank. Attention to detail when building is important though. #1 Rule: Don't over tighten the screws.
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