sniper34

New guy here. I was wondering if liquid thread lock is used on ALL the assembly screws. Thanks for your opinions.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

I use a paste threadlocker, it won't drip off and isn't as strong. On many metal to metal parts such has grub screws for wheel hex, ball diff nut. If it's metal screw into plastic, don't use a threadlocker; use CA glue only if absolutely necessary.

vabroom

I use Loctite 222(purple) it's their weakest threadlock you can 243(blue) which is their medium strength. Don't use the 271(red) which is the strong strength one and very to remove.

I smear a very small amount on the tread just enough to wet 2 or threads. Use only on metal to metal. Threadlockers deteriorate plastic.

sniper34

Thanks for the info guys.

sniper34

What brand is that paste thread locker? Can't seem to find it. Thanks-C

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

I could be wrong, but I believe the actual name of that stuff is anaerobic gel threadlock. If you do a search for that, it might get you closer to what you're looking for. And I agree with the others, you really should only need it when dealing with metal screws in metal parts. When you have metal in plastic parts, usually the plastic will act as a threadlock of its own.....

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

The only places I use thread lock is on cvds and esc/ dcjs as well as wherever the manual recommends. Lock tite brand makes a gel, liquid as well as a glue stick style thread lock in most of their strengths.

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

Hi sniper34. The answer is no. I only use threadlock on screws that back out more than once. On my TC4 it's the screws under my steering knuckles.

Skiddins

Only use it on grub screws in CVD's etc

ic-racer

If there is a plastic piece (not carbon fiber) between the screw and the metal part, then the plastic acts as a lock washer and thread lock is usually not needed. Otherwise all metal-metal and metal-CF connections would benefit.

swerv512

iTrader: (21)

On my TC i only use thread-lock (blue loctite) on CVD assemblies to hold the axle pins in and the small nut on top of shock shafts. I would suggest reading instruction manuals- most manuals i've read specify where thread-lock is appropriate. If you need thread-lock because of lost screws and bolts, i would suggest replacing the screw or part. Appropriate torquing should be enough. I use thread-lock on battery standoffs in pan cars because there are screws on both sides (under the chassis and above the post) and you dont want to loosen the assembly when removing the top screw....

I have a tiring habit of tearing down my TC after every couple days and doing such lets me know which screws need replacing or more torque if loose.

bmxcrx

iTrader: (12)

Put this on your Amazon Wish List. Sometimes it goes down to $6.XX.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-QuickS.../dp/B000132VH6

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I would be careful applying to Tamiya ABS chassis plastics. Some of those thread lockers will damage the plastic.

I currently use the HPI's red thread lock in a tiny bottle for metal to metal thread locking. Works great. Only need to use very little.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Thats's what I use! Loctite used to give that away at car shows and IMSA / Indy / Grand-Am races when they were there. Got 4 tubes. Loctite also has a gel that is wonderful, I use that when assemblying a rotary engine. But the gel is much stronger so be careful

sniper34

Wow, can't thank you guys enough. A lot of great info. I am about to start building my Pro-2 SC and probably would have over thread locked everything. Thanks again.