If something on your car, etc. is working fine for you then why change it ? Only thing I would do is check the wires and connections for signs of overheating. A bad connection will cause damage quickly at 20+ amps discharge rate.
for now, i am going to make myself a bulb discharger with a Deans connector on the end. Then, once I get into it more, I will start making my own packs and get a better discharger that discharges each cell individually. I have seen some HOW TO's on making a bulb discharger. Some people say to just watch the lights, once they get dim, take the pack off. Others have a switch that will automatically stop discharge. Do you know where I can get one of these switches?
Deans has one avallible seperately that you can add (solder) on.
I just GAVE away a Deans bulb discharger at the track a few weeks ago. I was always forgetting to keep an eye on the bulbs so I bought an Integy, Reactor 20, auto cut-off discharger. Cheaper than the full Deans set-up also.
BTW, are you really using the Peak Maxx-packs? I've had alot of trouble with them myself. I have a pair in my starter box and one is starting to act up. The packs are also less than 3 months old.
Originally posted by Iso Octane I have a question... how long does it take you guys to charge your packs? For me, it's 40+ mins for 2400mah, 50+ min for 3000mah. At 4 amps (that's the max on my "within budget" charger). Are these respectable charging times?
about 45 minutes for a 3000mah @ 4 amps, but now, i charge at 6 amps for about 25 - 30 minutes. as long as my batteries peak at 9.20 to 9.30 volts and its not too hot after the charge, i know that theyre ok (im using unmatched SMHs)
I think I only paid $30 something for mine at the LHS. (was over a year ago) They also have a Reactor 30 but it's really for if you are running modified motors. You are trying to simulate the discharge conditions that the batteries see in your car.
Do they make 3000 and 3300 mAh Ni-CD battery packs? I went to the track yesterday with my 2400 mAh Ni-CD battery pack and asked them if they had any 3000 mAh Ni-CD packs....and the guys said...."Nope, we only have 1600 mAh Ni-CD battery packs...the rest are Ni-MH. Who makes them? And what brand should I buy?
So...there really is no such thing at 3000 or 3300 mAh Ni-CD batteries? I have a 2400 mAh. Is that as high as they go. Then after 2400...3000 and 3300 are Ni-MH?
Yes you correct. There maybe some in between ratings, but 2400 is the top end of NiCd's and 3000 and up is MiMh.
What is better will probally be your next question. On this my experience is to 2400 NiCd's only. Alot of the Stock class racers that I race with use 3000HV's. No one will tell me for sure which is better. But by looking at how many people run what, you can get a pretty good idea of what the faster racers prefer.
I am probally going to get 1 matched 3000HV pack soon as I could use another pack in my arsenal of racing weapons.
Originally posted by unknown OK, now that I know that. I have a 2400 mAh pack...
What if I get a 1800 mAh pack. Will that offer me less run time...? Or less power?
not less power less run time ni-cads u have to train to have more power they nic metal don't have the memory propreties like ni-cads. what i mean is u have to discharge ni-cads at a high amp rate to bring voltage up then i re match batteries to get the best voltage packs volts= speed in stock racn today's battery techno.u don't have to worry about run time in stock class i still run 2000's and still run good against 3000 hv,don't get me wrong i still have my share of 3000hv's.................bubba
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