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Old 03-03-2003, 12:14 PM   #1141
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Default evo diffs

hey ray hows it going?

Well I only have a few runs on my evo3 with foams, and I am running modified. With the acception of running the front one way, the car works pretty good. Very fast and smooth. I just got my diff parts in today so I will be building a front diff this week. the tire choice has been double purples and tan trc's, I do think that the standard plaids and purples will be the way to go. The front one way made the car a little hard to handle, simply to much steering, but I think the diff will solve that problem. I also installed some torgue rods, like on the 414m, and that seems to work well. Still experimenting with set ups but overall things are looking good. And by the way I have not had a problem with my rear diff comming loose, it's been smooth and tight ever since I built it.

mark.
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Old 03-03-2003, 12:39 PM   #1142
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Mark,

My goal with this car is to make it a fulltime MOD machine. When you nail a set-up with the diff-lets compare notes!!!
To be honest-running mod sedan is not my favorite thing to do-but Doseck and a few others said-when you have a dialed Mod sedan-its a lot of fun. When your not dialed-it does suck-big time!!! And I only run stock and 19 turn so I dont know squat about driving mod. I do LOVE mod 12th scale though. So smooth-so fast!!!

Would you stay with the 3-hole pistons and what springs to start wih in Mod w/ the one-way?

Ray
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Old 03-03-2003, 12:53 PM   #1143
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I just ran my Evo III in it's first race at Hobby People, Riverside and I'm quite impressed with how it cope with the ever changing loose track condition. Anybody who have raced at this place knows what I'm talking about. I ran stock. Qualified 2nd, finished 4th overall (due to a bad 'take out' in the first minute of the mains, could have ran better though.) The set-up I ended up with was a little awkward... yellow springs in front with yellow swaybars and Blue springs at the back with red swaybars... I was also running a front diff (mainly because of the slippery nature of the track). The car has tons of steering while maintaining rear traction on the extremely loose/dusty track. Anybody else out there ever tried to use harder springs at the back compared to the front?
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Old 03-03-2003, 01:00 PM   #1144
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eeyan-I used to do that with my original MR4TC on foam tires. Much stiffer in rear than front. It was the only way to keep the car flat in the corners. If I ran softer in rear-car would roll horribly and have no speed.
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Old 03-03-2003, 01:26 PM   #1145
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ray;

Two hole pistons in the front with 70 weight and associated yellows, stand the shocks up, try the first 2 positions on the tower and decide what position you like best. for the rear you can stay with 3 hole and 50 weight and associated purples, and stand them up in the outer hole on the tower. Run about 5 mm ride height in the rear, and 4.5mm in front.
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Old 03-03-2003, 01:29 PM   #1146
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Eeyan sounds like the front traction is lacking from a roll or kick-up stand point try looking there and going back to a balanced spring. I think you will be happier with it. I had the same issues last weekend the car felt like it needed laees spring in the front, it would turn-in but skid from there on out.

Dan
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Old 03-03-2003, 01:47 PM   #1147
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Dan,

Thanks for the tip. I actually ran the car on Saturday at TA with the box stock setup and somehow, the rear end kept swinging going into the turn. Changed the rear spring 1 step harder and the car became stable. I'll try to find a more balanced spring combination, but as of now, I am happy with the way the car is reacting...

BTW, I tried going to Ultimate to see if they still have the Bugatti bodies... unfortunately, we had so much fun at Tamiya that I forgot all about it. Not sure when I can pass by though... Ultimate is around 40 minutes from where I live.

Ian Aquino
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Old 03-03-2003, 02:06 PM   #1148
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In LA terms that's a short commute what's the problem?
haha
Still sounds like the same problem too stiff of roll off center which loads the outside wheel too much on turn-in then turns to under steer/skidding through the middle of the turn also causing loss of corner speed.
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Old 03-03-2003, 02:31 PM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally posted by Difuser
In LA terms that's a short commute what's the problem?
haha
Well, what I meant by 40 min is without traffic... with traffic, it translates to about 1hr 30min... Hehehe... just way too many cars here in Cali...
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Old 03-03-2003, 06:59 PM   #1150
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Quote:
Originally posted by ARC MotorSports
fixed up my Evo III...
but i realised it's damn difficult to put in the side x sides...is there anyway to put them in peacefully?i almost scrapped off half the mounts on the front and back of the batteries just so the batteries can sit in ..looks very very ugly.
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Old 03-03-2003, 08:33 PM   #1151
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Here's something you can use I use tape because of the different sizes of batteries that I run.
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Old 03-03-2003, 09:19 PM   #1152
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Default Mark Rodney

Mark-I am going to try and skip over to my track tomorrow at lunch-throw in a 10 turn with my set-up (which is almost the same as you described) and see how it feels. I have tightened my rear diff again!!! We change our layout this week-so this is my last chance to do hot-laps on the current layout that I think i could drive blindfolded now!!! Two weeks ago I went 10.7 with my 19 turn in my TC3 and last Sunday the fast lap was 10.4 with full out mod motors (8 and 9 turns). One person with a XXXS and the other a TC3. If I can do 10.6 (track will be ice cold) I know the car is awesome!!!

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 03-04-2003, 12:20 AM   #1153
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee82gx
fixed up my Evo III...
but i realised it's damn difficult to put in the side x sides...is there anyway to put them in peacefully?i almost scrapped off half the mounts on the front and back of the batteries just so the batteries can sit in ..looks very very ugly.
i know that tape is anoying, but loose the battery tray.

when i originally built the kit i built it with out the battery tray, and just went with tape. this will accomidate almost any battery (side by side type) and will take alot of weight off of that side of the car. i weighed the tray, graphit battery strap and all hardware needed to attach it and it came out to arround 1.5 ounces!

this helps to make the car a little more balanced (even without the tray, it still slightly favors the battery side)

peter
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Old 03-04-2003, 01:28 AM   #1154
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hey guys, i hate this servo saver, it sticks and i have to adjust my steering trim after every corner. no good.
anyone know of some thing else i could use?
the common brands around here are, in order
kyosho
Xray
Tamiya

so if one of there servo-savers fit and work would be cool. anyone?

also i can't brake with this one-way, this car just spins out no matter how softly i brake! i remember you guys talking about how to build the front diff i mean what parts to get or something.
i need a diff, any easy ways? or do i have to order each little bit?
thanks for any advise guys.
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Old 03-04-2003, 01:46 AM   #1155
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1. get kimborough mid size servo saver.

2. adjust your braking power to a soft type of braking (if your braking point is adjustable) and brake straight...do not hit the brake late into the turn, do it a couple of feet early.

That should solve your problem
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