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Old 02-12-2003, 09:06 PM   #841
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Gee... I started this thread...
and I still don't have an EVO-III


With the few problem that the car is having...
I guess I'll wait for the PRO4 to be released this year.
Yeah zombies...what's wrong the picture?? *j/k* I still haven't bought mine yet. Well..maybe after I start making $$$ at the new job...we'll see.
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Old 02-12-2003, 09:26 PM   #842
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Default diff problems?not here....

Salutations earthlings!
howdy!i'm surprised that you guys over there are having problems with gears stripping and such....
there were 3 evo3s at the race just passed over here and the only time a front gear stripped was because the gear was not cinched down tight and worked loose....not due to collision.
having said that, you guys must drive rather aggressively you're stripping gears every other heat... maybe a gentler style of driving might help? bull dozing doesn't usually get your car aroung the track real fast....although its visually exciting!
our major gripe here has nothing to do with stripped gears but the fact that the caris so darn heavy.... and there isn't really much space for electronics......
anyways,for all you americans out there who cannot get your hands on an evo3,let me know,i may be able to get one for ya!
-FP
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During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 02-12-2003, 09:30 PM   #843
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The race I was refering to was a mod foam car on a track with tons of traction. I don't think anything can be any harder on a car than that. I don't think it is as big of a problem with a stock motor and rubber tires that setup is very forgiving on a drivetrain.
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Old 02-12-2003, 09:39 PM   #844
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Default we do race mod class too....

Salutations earthlings!
well. we do race mod classes here too. sometimes we have a super open class where you can run whatever ....as long as there is a car<doesn't even have to be touring> bodyshell on it and weighs in at min.1500gms
people use foams, crazy low turned motors,brushless motors, pan cars with touring bodies......
wowee speeds!
if you haven't tried brushless yet, then you really ought to try.
i have a LMT 4200 coupled to a Schulze Future 58E....gah! even GP drivers get impressed......
-FP
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During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 02-12-2003, 09:51 PM   #845
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I saw one fo the Tamiya team drivers Evo 3's today and they look awesome. No gear noise.
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Old 02-12-2003, 09:56 PM   #846
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In regards to the gears stripping. I hardly ever crash with enough force do major damage to anything but the body of the car What happens with mine is that I believe I don't use enough loctite and the screws back out eventually. Call me a perfectionist but if one tooth on a gear has a nick, I think it's bad so I replace it.

As far as the chassis being to heavy, perhaps you should look into Ti screws and aluminum ball connectors as well as universal shafts. As for radio equipment, try a Futaba S9550 servo and a quantum esc. My car, race ready with sanyo hv's, body, and transponder, weighs in at a collosal 1289g! If you're running a 53.5oz weight min, then I guess that makes my car 7.5oz UNDER weight.
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Old 02-12-2003, 10:41 PM   #847
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The car is a liitle bit heavy right out of the box. But if you remove the bettary holder and replace the wheel nut come from tamiya. Then you properly have to add 1 to 2 gram to race! I have now replaced some Ti screws, 4 light dog bone, blue ball connector for sway bar, with battery holder, and 15 grams for balance, it still around 150X g!!
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Old 02-12-2003, 11:07 PM   #848
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Default Whoa!sweet momma!how'd you do that?

Salutations Earthlings!
wowee RCTYPEC!if you could,please do a writeup abt what you have in your car.......
my car is a tonne of bricks in comparison.
-i'm using a generic futaba PCM receiver<abt 29gms>
-a Schulze eagle3 esc <another 29gms with wires>
-i have already changed all balls<short of my own>to aluminium,and shafts to lightweight 42mms from tamiya.<although the instruction says to use 39mm.... is that right?>
-i'm using titanium screws allround
-a futaba 9402 servo<abt 51gms>
-i think the body shell is abt 100gms
all in with transponder,body,ruber tyres......a whooping 1650 gms!
shizzen!
the hobby shop is missing titanium turnbuckles so i'm still missing those....
-FP
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During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 02-13-2003, 12:19 AM   #849
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What 1650g. That's impossible! Even I using all the original with body and GP3300 battery is only around 1560g with transponder.

I use futaba 9550 servo which should around 15g lighter
Futaba 201 receiver and novak GT7 speedo.

It is also rubber tire
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Old 02-13-2003, 12:26 AM   #850
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Default Re: Whoa!sweet momma!how'd you do that?

i think there is something wrong with the scale that you weigh the car in.....
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Old 02-13-2003, 01:04 AM   #851
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Heheh even the old TB-01 tub chassis cars didn't weight that much...the scales are lying.
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Old 02-13-2003, 07:34 AM   #852
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Default Regarding Evo Weight

i raced my car last night with great success, but that is beside the point...

knowing that my team mates car was over weight using the battery tray, i built mine without it and just went with tape.

this not only brings down the weight, but it also helps to balance the car, but it still slightly tends to favor the left side of the car.

the only other weight saving parts on my car are the light weight dog CVD axles (and posssibly the fact that i run a plastic gear servo)

the car weighed in at 3pounds, 4.5ounces... only 0.5ounce under the weight limit of all large sanctioned races.

not to bad

peter
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Old 02-13-2003, 09:40 AM   #853
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Oh snap! Sorry for the misinformation guys, but I looked back at my notes from the track and the evo3 was 1289g WITHOUT body. Woops.

Also, I use tape for my batteries and ,as Peter mentioned, it does save some weight.
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Old 02-13-2003, 10:09 AM   #854
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Default Front diff cure!

Hey guys!

About 2 weeks ago I purchase the Evo 3 even in light of knowing about the ongoing front diff stripping issue. Well I assemblied my car. I put special attention when build the front oneway assembly to make sure to not overtighten the gear screws(Not warp the gear) and also added thread lock(so screws could not back out).
I raced it last weekend and sure enough I damaged the gear the first night out running stock foam indoor. Upon inspection there was damage done to the gear but not enough skip but enought to make the driveline feel notchy. The backlash on the gears seems correct but the problem I dont think is the manuafacter of the gear out of tolerance but the material is a bit flexy. So with that thought... Here is the solution that does work to keep from damaging any more gears... I removed the screws that hold the gear to the diff housing and Using a spacer from my yokomo one way (blue aluminum 2-3 mm thick spacer that holds the pulley in place on the yok oneway with four screw holes in it). I removed enough material to slide the spacer onto the shaft sandwiching the diff gear in the housing. I then used some longer screws and put the assembly back together. The gear runs true and is free of any flex. And has survived a race night. A thought I had to make this an easier fix would be to use one of the stripped gears back to back instead of the spacer. Either way I think you will be happy with the results.
Good Luck!
SWG
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Old 02-13-2003, 10:55 AM   #855
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Izzy, I'm gonna smack you on Saturday! lol Fernando races for Tamiya lol. Okay gotta go build some batteries
HaHa, I did not know he runs for Tamiya.
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