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Old 12-07-2005, 01:44 PM   #7051
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doesn't any impact damage the bevel gear instead?
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Old 12-07-2005, 01:56 PM   #7052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecrow2k
doesn't any impact damage the bevel gear instead?
No didnt have any issues at all, after using the alloy ring gear.
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Old 12-07-2005, 02:11 PM   #7053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecrow2k
doesn't any impact damage the bevel gear instead?
this is why you can use the alloy beve gear, Tamiya make one i'm not sure of the part number thoguh
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Old 12-07-2005, 02:32 PM   #7054
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These are the shims for the diff/gearbox.

If you shim properly and use the lightweight shaft, you will rarely ever strip a gear. They also get sloppy when the shaft or the crown gear is worn. Shim it so that you have very little sideplay, then move the shims from side to side to get the lash correct. It's just like setting the gears in a "big" car.

This shaft is the latest and greatest version...it's a little bit longer than the "original" LW shaft...and it's pretty blue, not that ugly blue-gray.
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Old 12-08-2005, 02:33 PM   #7055
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Wahey, ordered some parts to help mod the Evo's gearbox from Rainbowten.
I've ordered:

Yokomo 10mm Shims
3 Xenon One Way Gears
Lightweight Propeller Shaft

Hoping this will help with the bevel closer, oneway gear closer and stronger gears.
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Old 12-10-2005, 05:33 AM   #7056
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Can anyone say how to properly shim the oneway, whether it be in the casings or on the gear
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Old 12-10-2005, 09:23 AM   #7057
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I thought I did that a few posts up...but...

You shim b/w the bearing and the oneway. Fresh gearboxes help, too.

Add small shims until the sideplay goes away and it binds a little, then remove shims until it doesn't bind. Ideally, you'd have the smallest bit of sideplay. Do this first step without the crown gear.

Once you have the ring gear preload done, put the crown gear in and move the shims back and forth from side to side until you ALMOST eliminate the last between the crown and ring gear. By moving the shims to one side, the gear will get closer to the crown or farther way.

The tricky part on the EVO-III is that the second part of this setup has to be done with the gearboxes in the car, shaft and all...because the shaft locates the crown gear and helps to set the lash.

Just take your time with it and use the smaller shims...they'll allow you to get it a very fine adjustment. You want the clearances to be very tight without binding up at all. It took me a couple hours one night to finally get it right, but I haven't blown a gear in a LONG time.
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Old 12-10-2005, 10:00 AM   #7058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecrow2k
Can anyone say how to properly shim the oneway, whether it be in the casings or on the gear
between the one way unit and the bearing , u need to put some 10mm shims.. the 10mm shim include (0.1mm)(0.2mm)(0.3mm)size.. try 0.1mm on both side..move the one way unit left and right to check tat there is any play..IF THERE IS NO PLAY , now attach the crown gear and one way unit back into the gear box..while rotate one way gear , use an object to stop the movement of the crown gear..if the one way gear alot of play..take out the 0.1mm shim on the left and place it on th right..tis is to shift the gear closer to the crown gear..DO NOT BIND THE ONE WAY GEAR AND THE CROWN GEAR.. also try the above steps for the rear..i am playing TB02 not EVO III. when everything is put on to the car , move the drive shaft up and down IF THE PLAY IS ON THE REAR.. , put some 5mm shims on the shaft before u place yr crown gear..start from (0.2mm)..after doing tat , go to the track and drive carefully...if u crash , dun worry..nothing will strip.. i am using EVO IV plastic one way gear not EVO III one way gear..after playing and CRASHING my TB02 for many many times..nothing happen..HAHA.. (NO WORRY..)
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Old 12-10-2005, 10:47 AM   #7059
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Some very confusing explanations here. I bought Yokomo shims so I dont kno what is included, anyone with aim or msn can help explain more?
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Old 12-10-2005, 11:50 AM   #7060
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Tell you what...

Why don't you wait until you actually get your parts in your hands? Then take the car apart, read the directions that a few of us have taken the time to write...THEN ask more questions.

It's kinda hard to answer questions for someone who hasn't even seen the parts yet...and frankly...a waste of time.
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Old 12-10-2005, 12:07 PM   #7061
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Okay, okay! I just wanted to know how the problem was solved.
Do you still drive your evo?
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Old 12-10-2005, 12:37 PM   #7062
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Does Jurgen still make the Evo III Custom one way unit also?
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Old 12-10-2005, 01:15 PM   #7063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecrow2k
Okay, okay! I just wanted to know how the problem was solved.
Do you still drive your evo?
I've been doing nitro stuff lately, but the EVO-III is still my favorite electric car. They're so friggin' tough, you can't kill them.

Even before I got the diff thing figured out, I've never DNF'd because of a chassis problem -- and I used to go to SoCal pretty regularly -- can you say..."BRICK WALLS".

You'd hear a little clicking...maybe...if you really tore it up. One of my cars has a Square gearbox and a Jurgen (bought the car used) and it's never stripped once. The other is all stock Tamiya stuff and it holds up just fine. I used to barely mess up maybe one gear a night, now I have a bunch of gears in the tray I never use.

I have a feeling it will all become clear to you when you tear into it. It's pretty simple, it just takes a little time and patience.
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Old 12-10-2005, 01:50 PM   #7064
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I know Im asking a lot of questions but. Does the penguin backing plate work better than the surikarn carbon gear plate. Does it help stop the gear stripping even more, as for $6.99 I wouldnt mind buying it.
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Old 12-10-2005, 02:58 PM   #7065
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As far as I know, the Tamiya one works with the newer gear. The Peguin one works with the old gear that nobody uses anymore.

The current EVO-III gear has a big lip around the ouside and the Tamiya plate drops right in perfectly. I think the Penguin plate is larger on the OD, so you can only use it on the old flat gears or the Xenon or Tc3 Gear.
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