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Old 01-12-2005, 10:40 PM   #6736
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I have used the same setup on my other SL and my standard EVO (R.I.P.) ...they're identical to me at least, handling-wise...as long as the tires are the same.

I ran yours around a little last night, but I didn't put good tires on it or anything. It's really a nice car. I want to make sure everything goes well...and it doesn't end up being a crash-test dummy.

You going to OC Circuit or Revelation Sunday?
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Old 01-12-2005, 10:45 PM   #6737
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Quote:
Originally posted by Turbo Joe
I have used the same setup on my other SL and my standard EVO (R.I.P.) ...they're identical to me at least, handling-wise...as long as the tires are the same.

I ran yours around a little last night, but I didn't put good tires on it or anything. It's really a nice car. I want to make sure everything goes well...and it doesn't end up being a crash-test dummy.

You going to OC Circuit or Revelation Sunday?
Might do La Mirada since there is no race at Revelation on Sunday. Are you going to SoCal on Saturday?
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:16 PM   #6738
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Hmmm...probably not. I have a "housecall" to do Saturday afternoon (It's "Glamis season"). I'll be there Tuesday, though.

I still want to try Revelation. I haven't been there since I've had a decent handling car and some practice. Plus, I like being the "underdog".
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:45 AM   #6739
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Default Thanks for advice

Thanks guys. My parts didnt arrive yesterday so no running the evoII tonight!! Always a bummer running a car with no local parts support!!
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:05 AM   #6740
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Thanks guys. My parts didnt arrive yesterday so no running the evoII tonight!! Always a bummer running a car with no local parts support!!
Yep. However, once you've got it set up, you don't need any more prts, because they don't break.

Bevel gears, hingepins and maybe an upright (screws can strip out). I haven't broken a single arm or c-hub. By far, the toughest car I've ever had...and I had a Sport/Pro 2...that's a tough car to break.
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:11 AM   #6741
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Your right-I had one of the first to come over and the only part that failed was the aluminum hingpin blocks. They bend easily when raised up off the chassis so at the time Imade full width shims so the whole block was supported from underneath.

Come to thknk of it-can you buy the a,b,c blocks in monoblock shape-like Surikarn's cars in pictures? Ugly-but I bet they dont bend.
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Old 01-13-2005, 12:02 PM   #6742
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Ray for arm spacing go full rear with the rear arm and for Foam start with 3mm behind the front arm. If you are lacking steering start moving the front arm back 1mm at a time.

I always ran the E3 with 0mm behind the arm even with foam.

As for sweep it definatley helps midturn with the foam and all of the grip. You definately are going to want to play with camber link spacing in the rear. You also might get a set of 415 blocks to try lowering the hingepins 1mm.

Another tip get the LW kingpins as they are about 1mm lower you will have to kiss the C-hub with a 1/2in drill bit to clearance the top of the pin to tighten it fully but it will not drag like the "last one" (inside joke: Ray really like to tighten his kinpins so they machine the universal)

You might also get the alu rear hub with 1d of toe to help free the car. then readjust toe with the blocks. It also helps fine tune rollas you have a vert stud out on the upright.
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Old 01-13-2005, 12:08 PM   #6743
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Quote:
Originally posted by Difuser
Ray for arm spacing go full rear with the rear arm and for Foam start with 3mm behind the front arm. If you are lacking steering start moving the front arm back 1mm at a time.

I always ran the E3 with 0mm behind the arm even with foam.

As for sweep it definatley helps midturn with the foam and all of the grip. You definately are going to want to play with camber link spacing in the rear. You also might get a set of 415 blocks to try lowering the hingepins 1mm.

Another tip get the LW kingpins as they are about 1mm lower you will have to kiss the C-hub with a 1/2in drill bit to clearance the top of the pin to tighten it fully but it will not drag like the "last one" (inside joke: Ray really like to tighten his kinpins so they machine the universal)

You might also get the alu rear hub with 1d of toe to help free the car. then readjust toe with the blocks. It also helps fine tune rollas you have a vert stud out on the upright.
Cool-I'll ask Kevin at Burien to send me a set of those alum rear hubs and those LW kingpins. I have 2d rear hubs, but didnt want 3 degrees rear toe in on arms to get 1 deg total if you follow me!!

btw-started building the F201 full option kit with all the lt. wt goodies!! Man are those diffs light!!!!!!
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Old 01-13-2005, 12:11 PM   #6744
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Ray how are you making out with the TB-02/Surikan.
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Old 01-13-2005, 12:16 PM   #6745
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Ray how are you making out with the TB-02/Surikan.
I was supposed to run it tonight-but my 2nd day package did not show up in 2-days-so the SL is sitting on the bench 60% done. I already put the electronics in it and the front and rear tranny's are sitting fully built ready to be screwed in. The only part I am missing is the spur gear adapter-and since I own exactly one Tamiya pinion (23t)-I decided to not build it with the kit spur. I'll bring i with me Sunday and try and race it.
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Old 01-13-2005, 12:22 PM   #6746
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I was supposed to run it tonight-but my 2nd day package did not show up in 2-days-so the SL is sitting on the bench 60% done. I already put the electronics in it and the front and rear tranny's are sitting fully built ready to be screwed in. The only part I am missing is the spur gear adapter-and since I own exactly one Tamiya pinion (23t)-I decided to not build it with the kit spur. I'll bring i with me Sunday and try and race it.
Ok. I hate when my stuff don't show on time and I pay for a certain delivery time. Good thing it don't happen to many times.
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Old 01-13-2005, 12:50 PM   #6747
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Hi everyone!

I'm new to this forum and I have an evo3 SL for about 4 months now, I really love it, I used to have the stripping problem that started after a few runs but after sticking the lightweight propeller and the square gearbox (really good looking) everything went fine.
Yet, I would like to know if you think the tb evo 4 has a more reliable transmission? Does it still need shimming? Do you actually think that once you've applied the upgrades I used the evo 3 SL is as reliable as the evo4?

I'd really appreciate any answers as I live in France the evo 3 and generally electric on-road isn't that much popular!

Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2005, 01:47 PM   #6748
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Anyone know where I can find some set-ups for the EVO3?? I've been looking all over and finding limited information...

Thanks...
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Old 01-13-2005, 02:06 PM   #6749
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Any one know where I can order the harden front uprights (p/n 53579)??
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Old 01-13-2005, 02:37 PM   #6750
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Try www.etamiya.com or look a couple of pages before there's a post with a link to a good tamiya spare parts website
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