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Old 10-14-2004, 11:46 PM   #6676
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Hey guys i was just wonder that when you speak of your wheels having a free spin of like 10 or so secs, i was wondering what is the method to do it...do you spin it with your hand or do you run it with your motor or what?

thanks
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:17 PM   #6677
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hey guys, are ceramic bearings really worth all that money to make the evos drive train more free?? If they arent what is the way to get the best out of the drivetrain??
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Old 10-19-2004, 02:41 AM   #6678
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Quote:
Originally posted by DJB
hey guys, are ceramic bearings really worth all that money to make the evos drive train more free?? If they arent what is the way to get the best out of the drivetrain??
For an EVO 3 or 4, definitely.

For a Surikarn, no. Better quality bearings in it.
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Old 10-19-2004, 02:43 AM   #6679
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Quote:
Originally posted by scorpia
Hmmm,

I have the same problem. I have a JR XS-3 radio and with 3 different servos I have had the same problem. i used a s3003, JR570?, and the S9550 (currrent.)

I also upgraded to a new kimbro servo saver at the time i changed radio's.

I thought there was something with the radio but just last week i found the ball cup was hitting the servo at full throw.

It seems that the kimbro servo save is thinner than the Tamiya one. I am going to try and change the side that the ball is on.

If anyone else has any comments i would be happy to hear them.

Regards

Peter
Thats what you get for not connecting the servo and getting it centred with the car and radio on.
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Old 10-19-2004, 03:00 AM   #6680
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOtech
Thats what you get for not connecting the servo and getting it centred with the car and radio on.
I was centered but because of the thinner servo saver when i turned left the arm would hit the top of the servo instead of going between the servo and the arm.

Its all fixed now by putting it further out on the arm.

Scorpia
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Old 10-19-2004, 03:29 AM   #6681
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Quote:
For an EVO 3 or 4, definitely.
thanks for the advice

one more question. have any of you guys tried the new lightweight arms set?? And what is your feedback on it. Worth it or worthless??
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Old 10-22-2004, 09:42 PM   #6682
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Default Need some set up help

Hopefully someone can help me out with a problem I have.

I run my EVO 3 on carpet and my car tends to have a push going into the turns and them gets loose off power. I have softened the rear springs and stiffened the fron springs but I still get loose off power. It seems anything I do the front stays softer than the rear. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Larry
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Old 10-23-2004, 07:59 AM   #6683
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Default Re: Need some set up help

Quote:
Originally posted by f1larry
Hopefully someone can help me out with a problem I have.

I run my EVO 3 on carpet and my car tends to have a push going into the turns and them gets loose off power. I have softened the rear springs and stiffened the fron springs but I still get loose off power. It seems anything I do the front stays softer than the rear. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Larry
Are you running the 1-way upfront, or twin diffs?

Most furry racers seem to use a front diff.
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Old 10-23-2004, 08:51 AM   #6684
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Default carpet racing

i ran carpet for the first time last year and I was told that the car must be stiffer all the way around. I was using my SE and used blue springs all the way around and seemed to have great steering and traction. I also used the yellow sways in front and back. Granted, i run stock, so i don't know if this setup will work for 19 turn or mod

vic
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Old 10-23-2004, 09:32 PM   #6685
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Default Re: Re: Need some set up help

Quote:
Originally posted by WC
Are you running the 1-way upfront, or twin diffs?

Most furry racers seem to use a front diff.
I have run it both ways and seem to get the same result.
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Old 10-24-2004, 01:00 PM   #6686
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F1Larry,

What is your detailed setup? Motor, Gearing, Shocks, droop, etc...

We could spend 20 questions getting to the heart of your problem.
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Old 10-24-2004, 03:31 PM   #6687
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Quote:
Originally posted by A-Ko
F1Larry,

What is your detailed setup? Motor, Gearing, Shocks, droop, etc...

We could spend 20 questions getting to the heart of your problem.
Last time I ran this is what my setup was:

Front;
Outer shock position on shock tower
Outer shock position on lower arm
front diff (last run went with one way)
-1 degree camber
0 degree toe out
.5mm under front suspension mount
Hard Stabilizer
3mm upper arm support
white spring, 2 hole piston, 50 weight assoc. shock oil, 1 urethane bushing
5mm ride height
2mm over ride height droop
6mm wheel hex

Rear;
middle shock postion on shock tower
inner shock position on lower arm
1.5mm under both suspension mounts. (A front C rear)
No stabilizer
-1 degree camber
no spacer on upper arm support
yellow spring, 2 hole piston, 40 weight assoc. shock oil, 1 urethane bushing
5mm ride height
2mm over ride height droop
6mm wheel hex
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Old 10-24-2004, 09:07 PM   #6688
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Quote:
Originally posted by f1larry
Last time I ran this is what my setup was:

Front;
Outer shock position on shock tower
Outer shock position on lower arm
front diff (last run went with one way)
-1 degree camber
0 degree toe out
.5mm under front suspension mount
Hard Stabilizer
3mm upper arm support
white spring, 2 hole piston, 50 weight assoc. shock oil, 1 urethane bushing
5mm ride height
2mm over ride height droop
6mm wheel hex

Rear;
middle shock postion on shock tower
inner shock position on lower arm
1.5mm under both suspension mounts. (A front C rear)
No stabilizer
-1 degree camber
no spacer on upper arm support
yellow spring, 2 hole piston, 40 weight assoc. shock oil, 1 urethane bushing
5mm ride height
2mm over ride height droop
6mm wheel hex
F1Larry,

Usullly with the Evo3 I have stuck with 1.5 camber F/R indoor & outdoors. Should give you a little more in corners.

I think your rear Droop should be at least 3 if not 4 mm. With the soft spring/oil you get a fast weight transfer in the rear making you loose with that short of a droop.

Your rear camber length should be as long as possible. I use the innermost hole on the alum upper deck mount and I put 6mm of shims under this mount. This will settle down the back more.

Your ESC dial out most of your brakes. I think I am around 15 to 30% once you find that fine line I use my brake curve to dial in or out brakes from track to track from the radio. More brakes can give you more cornering but also can make you loose.

The push in the corners could indicate your front is too stiff as far as spring goes and/or that your back end is too soft when it finally settles it gets better traction than your front. I would lighten up the front or swap your front/rear springs.

I usually don't use the urethane insert. It soaks up oil like a sponge. I either use 2 black o-rings or none.

I have been using the As with Med/soft insert up front and soft in the rear. A stagger seems to work better unless you can get a Med soft F/R setup to work. I would stick with the 1-way, a ball diff setup is nice but I have usually lost 3 to 5 tenths per lap with it.

Also make sure your chassis is not tweaking. I ended up countersinking my top plate.

Hope this helps,

A-ko
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Old 11-04-2004, 05:33 PM   #6689
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Anyone know of any good websites with EVO III Parts. I had my Surikan laying around and decided to put it back together but i am missing a few things.

Also some place that has a nice 19t Carpet setup.

Thanks

Jon
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Old 11-04-2004, 06:50 PM   #6690
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do you rekon aus$270 is a good deal for a evo3 surikarn with the carbon shaft sum spares and wheels
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