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Old 08-13-2004, 06:00 AM   #6526
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Yah Rick, that race in Snetterton was yours...i was there also, but we arrived a day later....so no practice (((((((, great track...
You were just a bit unlucky
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Old 08-13-2004, 06:18 AM   #6527
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF_SPAIN
Yah Rick, that race in Snetterton was yours...i was there also, but we arrived a day later....so no practice (((((((, great track...
You were just a bit unlucky
Yup hopefully i will rectify it at the end of this month! Are you going to Holland? Last season of Eurocup for me, its become to expensive and not enough competition. Rick
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Old 08-13-2004, 08:49 AM   #6528
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Chill out guys...Evotech, these guys are only trying to help and provide insight based on their experience.

I've run Evo3 from they day it was released and have run every iteration of it including versions with Square, Tech, and other Japanese aftermarket parts.

The aluminum gearboxes are a GREAT investment. They aren't as heavy as most people make them out to be and the extra structural rigidity you get helps a great deal. Also, the gear boxes are machined with percision, you can shim your gears perfectly. I highly recommend this if setup if you're running low mod motors in a weight regulated class (the Evo3 is a light car) If you're club racing where everybody's running ultra-light stuff...the plastic gear boxes work...

In regards to the suspension components, Tamiya makes some of the best arms and hub carriers...EVER. I've clipped the inside board in a sweeper at a full throttle 10 turn boogie and cartwheeled into the opposite board, then launched into the retaining fence and continued driving, no damage only a mild chassis tweak. This is with the stock suspension. Yes, I have tried the Square and Tech Racing aluminum parts in the suspension but I find that they add a HUGE amount of unsprun weight to the suspension and they make the car feel lazy. I believe the aluminum rear hub carriers are good to have but the front is just overkill and adds a lot of bling with no performance benefits.

I'm running out of pennies, so that was my $.05 worth


Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
lol.thats a shame.
u are the only one so far who can beat john winter
Did somebody say "Slow guy extrodinaire John Winter"? Just kidding, homeboy is a pretty fast clean driver and a riot off the track. If you guys see him, tell him that Rodzilla says "High!" and ask if he's seen any good boots lately

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
This is were my problem lies when going down the straight with the stock motor it was fine now with the 12x2 modified it get to almost top speed (in a straight line) then it drifts off to the right

It sounds like your car is tweaked...Check to make sure your chassis is and everything is not tweaked. Take the wheels off and put the car on a flat surface and push down on the shock towers, does it feel like the chassis is lying flat? or does it feel like you can tap morse code on one of the corners? If the car is tweaked, loosen all of the upper deck screws and have a friend push down on your shock towers while you re-tighten the screws. Set the car up again making sure all of the adjustments are equal side to side and when finished do a final suspension tweak. Put the car on a flat surface with tires or setup wheels on and lift the front/back up using an exacto or small hex driver placed at the centerline of the chassis, see if both l/r sides lift at the same time, if not adjust the spring preload (add more preload to one side and less on the other side to side) on the opposite end(front/rear) so that they do lift equally. I hope this helps...

Last edited by rtypec; 08-13-2004 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 08-13-2004, 09:07 AM   #6529
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Chill out guys...Evotech, these guys are only trying to help and provide insight based on their experience.

I've run Evo3 from they day it was released and have run every iteration of it including versions with Square, Tech, and other Japanese aftermarket parts.

The aluminum gearboxes are a GREAT investment. They aren't as heavy as most people make them out to be and the extra structural rigidity you get helps a great deal. Also, the gear boxes are machined with percision, you can shim your gears perfectly. I highly recommend this if setup if you're running low mod motors in a weight regulated class (the Evo3 is a light car) If you're club racing where everybody's running ultra-light stuff...the plastic gear boxes work...

In regards to the suspension components, Tamiya makes some of the best arms and hub carriers...EVER. I've clipped the inside board in a sweeper at a full throttle 10 turn boogie and cartwheeled into the opposite board, then launched into the retaining fence and continued driving, no damage only a mild chassis tweak. This is with the stock suspension. Yes, I have tried the Square and Tech Racing aluminum parts in the suspension but I find that they add a HUGE amount of unsprun weight to the suspension and they make the car feel lazy. I believe the aluminum rear hub carriers are good to have but the front is just overkill and adds a lot of bling with no performance benefits.

I'm running out of pennies, so that was my $.05 worth




Did somebody say "Slow guy extrodinaire John Winter"? Just kidding, homeboy is a pretty fast clean driver and a riot off the track. If you guys see him, tell him that Rodzilla says "High!" and ask if he's seen any good boots lately




It sounds like your car is tweaked...Check to make sure your chassis is and everything is not tweaked. Take the wheels off and put the car on a flat surface and push down on the shock towers, does it feel like the chassis is lying flat? or does it feel like you can tap morse code on one of the corners? If the car is tweaked, loosen all of the upper deck screws and have a friend push down on your shock towers while you re-tighten the screws. Set the car up again making sure all of the adjustments are equal side to side and when finished do a final suspension tweak. Put the car on a flat surface with tires or setup wheels on and lift the front/back up using an exacto or small hex driver placed at the centerline of the chassis, see if both l/r sides lift at the same time, if not adjust the spring preload (add more preload to one side and less on the other side to side) on the opposite end(front/rear) so that they do lift equally. I hope this helps...


lol.yes i saw john winter race and when he screws up a race he starts playin about.
very amusing to watch and marshal!




not for the race directers tho.
they were stressing cause he took out the lappers wen they came round.
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Old 08-13-2004, 11:45 AM   #6530
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This year i didnņt have the time to practice..., so itīs beter to forget it , but letīs see next year! i still love Eurocup races...
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Old 08-14-2004, 03:01 AM   #6531
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Default car not going straight

Thanks for all you help guys, testing tommorow all of your ideas


P.S is the evo 5 that much better than the evo3 for modified? (basicly is it worth trading up?)
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Old 08-14-2004, 07:47 AM   #6532
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Default Re: car not going straight

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Thanks for all you help guys, testing tommorow all of your ideas


P.S is the evo 5 that much better than the evo3 for modified? (basicly is it worth trading up?)
evo5?
it isnt out yet unless they have just released it!
the evo4 is the latest edition and is faster then the evo3. for any class but would be much faster in modified cause the new suspension.
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Old 08-14-2004, 02:06 PM   #6533
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Default Re: Re: car not going straight

Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
evo5?
it isnt out yet unless they have just released it!
the evo4 is the latest edition and is faster then the evo3. for any class but would be much faster in modified cause the new suspension.
Sorry i mean the evo4, thanks for the reply
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Old 08-17-2004, 01:31 AM   #6534
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Default Re: Re: car not going straight

Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
evo5?
it isnt out yet unless they have just released it!
the evo4 is the latest edition and is faster then the evo3. for any class but would be much faster in modified cause the new suspension.
Use it and you might get round the 'DNF' syndrome?
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Old 08-17-2004, 01:37 AM   #6535
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Chill out guys...Evotech, these guys are only trying to help and provide insight based on their experience.

I've run Evo3 from they day it was released and have run every iteration of it including versions with Square, Tech, and other Japanese aftermarket parts.

The aluminum gearboxes are a GREAT investment. They aren't as heavy as most people make them out to be and the extra structural rigidity you get helps a great deal. Also, the gear boxes are machined with percision, you can shim your gears perfectly. I highly recommend this if setup if you're running low mod motors in a weight regulated class (the Evo3 is a light car) If you're club racing where everybody's running ultra-light stuff...the plastic gear boxes work...

In regards to the suspension components, Tamiya makes some of the best arms and hub carriers...EVER. I've clipped the inside board in a sweeper at a full throttle 10 turn boogie and cartwheeled into the opposite board, then launched into the retaining fence and continued driving, no damage only a mild chassis tweak. This is with the stock suspension. Yes, I have tried the Square and Tech Racing aluminum parts in the suspension but I find that they add a HUGE amount of unsprun weight to the suspension and they make the car feel lazy. I believe the aluminum rear hub carriers are good to have but the front is just overkill and adds a lot of bling with no performance benefits.

I'm running out of pennies, so that was my $.05 worth




Did somebody say "Slow guy extrodinaire John Winter"? Just kidding, homeboy is a pretty fast clean driver and a riot off the track. If you guys see him, tell him that Rodzilla says "High!" and ask if he's seen any good boots lately




It sounds like your car is tweaked...Check to make sure your chassis is and everything is not tweaked. Take the wheels off and put the car on a flat surface and push down on the shock towers, does it feel like the chassis is lying flat? or does it feel like you can tap morse code on one of the corners? If the car is tweaked, loosen all of the upper deck screws and have a friend push down on your shock towers while you re-tighten the screws. Set the car up again making sure all of the adjustments are equal side to side and when finished do a final suspension tweak. Put the car on a flat surface with tires or setup wheels on and lift the front/back up using an exacto or small hex driver placed at the centerline of the chassis, see if both l/r sides lift at the same time, if not adjust the spring preload (add more preload to one side and less on the other side to side) on the opposite end(front/rear) so that they do lift equally. I hope this helps...
What I get annoyed about is when people pipe up and say I dont know what I'm talking about when I demonstrably do, having just won a championchip with the darned thing. I also get fed up with misquotes and things being taken out of context.
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Old 08-17-2004, 04:16 AM   #6536
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOtech
What I get annoyed about is when people pipe up and say I dont know what I'm talking about when I demonstrably do, having just won a championchip with the darned thing. I also get fed up with misquotes and things being taken out of context.
welcome to the grea forum!!!!
only a select few take misquotes.
lol
maybe using the evo4 will help with my world record dnfs but iam still gona give the 415 a chance to prove itself at wlrc for the ko
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Old 08-17-2004, 07:04 AM   #6537
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Hey Rod and whoever was asking about the car drifting thing- I've also found that the Tamiya (specifically the EVO3) is VERY hard to see a slightly bent hinge pin without removing them for inspection. In fact, there have been times when I had a slightly bent hinge pin that was so slight you coulnd't tell it was bent w/o rolling it on clean smooth glass. The car would feel fine but it would have minimal tweak charactieristics like drifting.

One other note- the Xray hinge pins are 3mm just like the Tamiya hinge pins. Get some and cut them to the correct length. They are very strong, but they can bend... just not as easily as the stock pins.
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Old 08-17-2004, 07:49 AM   #6538
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Lol Jason...since they don't cost an arm and a leg, I typically replace all my hinge pins before a big race If I crash hard enough to warrant inspection, I do check. That's why it never crossed my mind hehe. But yeah, that's another thing Evotech can look into.

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Old 08-18-2004, 06:57 AM   #6539
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
Hey Rod and whoever was asking about the car drifting thing- I've also found that the Tamiya (specifically the EVO3) is VERY hard to see a slightly bent hinge pin without removing them for inspection. In fact, there have been times when I had a slightly bent hinge pin that was so slight you coulnd't tell it was bent w/o rolling it on clean smooth glass. The car would feel fine but it would have minimal tweak charactieristics like drifting.

One other note- the Xray hinge pins are 3mm just like the Tamiya hinge pins. Get some and cut them to the correct length. They are very strong, but they can bend... just not as easily as the stock pins.
If you were to do that, I'd personally either turn them down with a lathe or grind them, rather than cut them and then leave an edge burr which, in time, will wear away the sockets and create sloppy fit.

I would use 3mm silver steel or stainless steel rod, if it can be got.

BTW, I'm going to start experimenting on my model lathe making parts like the front lower bushings, for example.
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Old 08-18-2004, 07:42 AM   #6540
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EVOtech- Hudy hinge pins are hardened steel, and when you cut them with a dremel you siply knock the sharp edge off with the cut-off wheel. Also, stainless steel is softer than drawn steel and drawn or nickel plated steel is CONSIDERABLY softer than case hardened steel like the Xray hinge pins. The only thing I can think of that might be harder or as hard is drill stock.

Rod, everyone- here's something somebody should make instead of silly crap that just looks pretty- some damn rectangular spacers to go under the hinge pin mounts that have the same footprint as the mounts!!! That way when you catch a pipe and you have those tiny little spacers under your hinge pin mounts it doesn't bend the hinge pin mounts like silly putty!!! It's plain ridiculous that someone hasn't made some of these yet!!
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