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Old 08-12-2004, 11:19 PM   #6511
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Originally posted by Rick Draper
Sorry but if your breaking tamiya hubs and knuckles then you shud not be using this car. In 5 years of running tamiya TA04's, 414's, evo 3's, and 415's all with the same design of knuckle i have never broken one. The only thing i have done is after loads of rebuilds strip the thread out of the bottom of one of the knuckles. Rick
Exactly. Iīm running my EVO III since 15 month now and I only broke one rear arm. Thatīs it.
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Old 08-12-2004, 11:33 PM   #6512
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Sorry but if your breaking tamiya hubs and knuckles then you shud not be using this car. In 5 years of running tamiya TA04's, 414's, evo 3's, and 415's all with the same design of knuckle i have never broken one. The only thing i have done is after loads of rebuilds strip the thread out of the bottom of one of the knuckles. Rick
Who said anything about breaking? AND what right have you to say 'shouldn't be driving the car'?
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Old 08-12-2004, 11:33 PM   #6513
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Lightbulb car not running straight

are you running the stock black colored turnbuckle rod ends? i suggest switching to the low friction gray colored ones. i also got a used evo3 and this is one of the first things i replaced, not too expensive (though labor intensive because i hate threading turnbuckles ) this may decrease the amount of slop in those areas.

also, i suggest getting a suspension shim kit. it comes with different thicknesses of shims to remove any slop in the suspension arms and c-hubs/rear hub carriers. youll have to do this by trial and error to prevent over-shimming and binding IMHO, these inexpensive suggestions may prevent your car from wandering in the straights
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:05 AM   #6514
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Default Re: car not running straight

Quote:
Originally posted by marvi
are you running the stock black colored turnbuckle rod ends? i suggest switching to the low friction gray colored ones. i also got a used evo3 and this is one of the first things i replaced, not too expensive (though labor intensive because i hate threading turnbuckles ) this may decrease the amount of slop in those areas.

also, i suggest getting a suspension shim kit. it comes with different thicknesses of shims to remove any slop in the suspension arms and c-hubs/rear hub carriers. youll have to do this by trial and error to prevent over-shimming and binding IMHO, these inexpensive suggestions may prevent your car from wandering in the straights
Thanks for the reply i will try this.
Also do you know of any way to adjust the rear toe?
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:08 AM   #6515
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Originally posted by EVOtech
If the car's on weight, then, IMHO, no they aren't. A far better investment would be (Square again) uprights and steering arms.

Again, IMHO, the hubs and uprights (particularly front) are far more of a liability than the bevel gears.

The LW prop shaft goes some way to preventing stripping, but not, as we found out, if the input bearing disintegrates. All you get then is a metal ring and lots of shredded plastic.
Tamiya front hubs and knuckles are very proven, there is no fault with them at all, they dont break )unless in the instance of really not been able to drive). You there are stating that they are more of i liability ie more chance of you not finishing a run cause either the hub or the knuckle has broken. Thats incorrect advice if ever i heard it. I not a few other people have back me up as well.

The biggest problem with the evo 3 was the soft gearbox cases, the square ones fix this. Why do you want to creare a problem where there is not one? Rick
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:16 AM   #6516
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i agree and disagree.
i agree with rick that thye older type hubs/uprights are one of the strongest on one of the highest competition car.
i also have the same faith in the new ones.
i have never broken a single suspension part on my evo2.5,evo3sl,414,415,ta04.
i have yet to try evo4 as iam waiting for the indoor season to start!
i have tho the lightweight suspension instaled on my 415 and will test it at barham this weekend.
my first time at barham was a complete waste of time as i didnt finish none of the 3 heats and 1 final out of two although i was leading.
i think that beats ur number of dnf in one day ah rick?
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:19 AM   #6517
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i disagree that the suspension on the evo3 is the weakest link.
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard

rick you racing at the ko?
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:22 AM   #6518
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
i disagree that the suspension on the evo3 is the weakest link.
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard

rick you racing at the ko?
Nope not doing the KO, taking a bit of a brake from racing after the Tamiya eurocup euros as i have lost interest in racing a bit and need to find the fun again. Might buy myself a 1/8th scale buggy and do a bit of that over winter. Might sell all my tamiya stuff as well if anyone is interested? Rick
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:30 AM   #6519
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Originally posted by Rick Draper
Nope not doing the KO, taking a bit of a brake from racing after the Tamiya eurocup euros as i have lost interest in racing a bit and need to find the fun again. Might buy myself a 1/8th scale buggy and do a bit of that over winter. Might sell all my tamiya stuff as well if anyone is interested? Rick
lol.thats a shame.
u are the only one so far who can beat john winter
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:39 AM   #6520
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lightweight suspension kit

has any of you tried the reversible lightweight suspension kit for the evo-3 and the 415 and does it really works
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:42 AM   #6521
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
i disagree that the suspension on the evo3 is the weakest link.
its
1 the soft gearboxes.
2 lack of shimming as standard

rick you racing at the ko?
Lets can this.

1) I never said any of the knuckles or uprights had broken.

2) I find RDs attitude 'shouldn't be driving' an insult, not that I drive anyway, just in case the blind can't see.

3) Replacement of the plastic knuckles and uprights adds a great deal of stability to the car. TRF racer should at least admit to the rear being better. I say the front is better too. If nobody else has tried it, no right to comment.

4) The aluminium diff cases do precisely NOTHING to the rigidity of the car. They add weight. I agree they are probably a better proposition if you can afford the extra weight, BUT if you want rigidity, why say you gain it with the gearboxes and then throw it away by taking the centre brace out?
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:50 AM   #6522
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i havent tried it so dont know but iam saying that the standard plastic ones should be ok.
obviously the metal ones will be stronger.
i never said yousaid they brake.
all i said is dat they are not the weakest part like u said.
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Old 08-13-2004, 03:53 AM   #6523
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
i havent tried it so dont know but iam saying that the standard plastic ones should be ok.
obviously the metal ones will be stronger.
i never said yousaid they brake.
all i said is dat they are not the weakest part like u said.
I know you didn't say.....

I didn't say they were the weakest part either.

RD did though.

You will see the result on Sunday. 76g lighter!

Can you find your own way or do you want to follow again?

I will bring some lead down in case u can't make the weight
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Old 08-13-2004, 04:10 AM   #6524
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Default Re: Re: car not running straight

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Thanks for the reply i will try this.
Also do you know of any way to adjust the rear toe?
Change the rearmost block. Lower letter, less toe, higher, more toe.
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Old 08-13-2004, 05:24 AM   #6525
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOtech
Lets can this.

4) The aluminium diff cases do precisely NOTHING to the rigidity of the car. They add weight. I agree they are probably a better proposition if you can afford the extra weight, BUT if you want rigidity, why say you gain it with the gearboxes and then throw it away by taking the centre brace out?
Donīt take me wrong but I think on some of your comments itīs very easy misunderstanding you. I also did understand your posting in that way the suspension parts are breaking easily. I think Rick did the same way.

Regarding the Square gearboxes youīre completely wrong. I doubt you ever had these in your car. Using these gearboxes even the 2.5mm chassis is way stiffer than the 3mm chassis with the stock plastic gearboxes. So the centerbrace isnīt needed any longer as it makes very little if any difference.

Just look at the 415 or the Pro4 where also no centerbrace is run because of a very stiff chassis construction.
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