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Old 08-11-2004, 08:17 AM   #6496
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Iīm using the Square gearboxes since about one year now and I think these are some of the parts really worth the money.

Pros
- drivetrain is much more free
- bearings are better supported
- no more stripped threads
- looks really cool
- no shimming necessary. Every Square gearbox is the same unlike the plastic gearbox.
- much stiffer chassis. Iīm using the 2.5 mm chassis only and this is even stiffer than the 3mm chassis with the plastic gearboxes.

cons
- wonīt help very much with the oneway gear problem
- a little expensive but really worth the money
- heavier. But you could remove the center brace with the screws and save a little weight again as the chassis is so stiff now so the brace isnīt needed any longer.

hey v12.
hows the you got any carpet set ups for 415 with rubber tyres and one ways?
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Old 08-11-2004, 08:38 AM   #6497
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
hey v12.
hows the you got any carpet set ups for 415 with rubber tyres and one ways?
Hi TRF racer

I know only of one carpet setup for rubber tires.
Itīs the one from Marc Rheinard from the LRP Masters race. http://www.rczone.net/modules.php?na...=getit&lid=311

Marc is running oneways only. I think should work on most carpet tracks.
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Old 08-11-2004, 09:23 AM   #6498
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Quote:
Originally posted by prodrive
dammit i keep stripping the front input gear, why is that? i have alreaddy went through like 5 input gear and 5 front one way bevel gear! would the lw shaft cure the problem?? is it longer? its the inside hole of the input gear that keeps getting stripped. any ideas????
the lw shaft will help a lot. but if you have a frontal crash, that energy has to go somewhere.
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Old 08-11-2004, 10:26 AM   #6499
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Hi TRF racer

I know only of one carpet setup for rubber tires.
Itīs the one from Marc Rheinard from the LRP Masters race. http://www.rczone.net/modules.php?na...=getit&lid=311

Marc is running oneways only. I think should work on most carpet tracks.
Could you post the setup here...A lot of us can't access it.
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Old 08-11-2004, 12:38 PM   #6500
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yeah i cant access it.
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Old 08-11-2004, 01:10 PM   #6501
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you could get the same setup here for the 415
http://www.rcworld.ch/pdf/setup_rheinard_trf415.pdf

and here for the EVO III
http://www.rcworld.ch/pdf/evo3-ger-nats.pdf

download shouldnīt be a problem here

EVO III setup was the basic setup for all indoor races and changes were made specially at the LRP Masters because of the different control-tires.

Regarding RCZone maybe you have to register for downloading. Donīt know exactly.

But with all of the Tamiya cars setup on carpet with rubber tires is very similar. This is what Marc and most German TRF drivers are using.
Basically its white/blue springs front/rear. 60 oil and 3 hole pistons all round. Yellow rollbar front, no rear.
Upper arm spacer 4mm front, 0mm rear.
Rear toe in 3-3,5°. Camber 1-1,5°.
Ground clearence 5mm.
Shock position outer hole on arms, upper positions according to track and griplevel.
Body is Stratus 2 or Mazda6.

upper arm spacers may be different with the drivers as some like 6/2mm and some like me like more 4/0 mm front/rear.

Also most drivers used the old 2° plastic rear uprights indoors.
The newer 1° or Square 0.5° were not in use very much last winter.
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Old 08-11-2004, 01:19 PM   #6502
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thanks v12.
ur sweet!
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Old 08-12-2004, 03:13 AM   #6503
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hey v12 how much weight does your car gain when you add the aluminium gearboxes. Is it worth it?? They look sick
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:36 AM   #6504
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Iīm not sure currently about the weight as itīs one year ago since I added the Square gearboxes to the EVO III.
But I think one gearbox is about 20-24 gramms. But as I said already you could save a little weight by removing the centerbrace. Using the aluminium gearboxes the chassis is sooo stiff so you donīt need the brace.

I think itīs worth. Drivetrain is way more free as there is a perfect fit for the diff/oneway bearings. And beside the stiffness you also donīt have to care for any broken threads as it could happen with the soft plastic gearboxes.
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:42 AM   #6505
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Quote:
Originally posted by DJB
are the aluminium gearboxes worth the weight offset they have. or do the plastic ones cut it when the threads arent stripped??
If the car's on weight, then, IMHO, no they aren't. A far better investment would be (Square again) uprights and steering arms.

Again, IMHO, the hubs and uprights (particularly front) are far more of a liability than the bevel gears.

The LW prop shaft goes some way to preventing stripping, but not, as we found out, if the input bearing disintegrates. All you get then is a metal ring and lots of shredded plastic.
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Old 08-12-2004, 03:16 PM   #6506
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Quote:
Originally posted by EVOtech
If the car's on weight, then, IMHO, no they aren't. A far better investment would be (Square again) uprights and steering arms.

Again, IMHO, the hubs and uprights (particularly front) are far more of a liability than the bevel gears.

The LW prop shaft goes some way to preventing stripping, but not, as we found out, if the input bearing disintegrates. All you get then is a metal ring and lots of shredded plastic.
Sorry but if your breaking tamiya hubs and knuckles then you shud not be using this car. In 5 years of running tamiya TA04's, 414's, evo 3's, and 415's all with the same design of knuckle i have never broken one. The only thing i have done is after loads of rebuilds strip the thread out of the bottom of one of the knuckles. Rick
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Old 08-12-2004, 03:50 PM   #6507
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Sorry but if your breaking tamiya hubs and knuckles then you shud not be using this car. In 5 years of running tamiya TA04's, 414's, evo 3's, and 415's all with the same design of knuckle i have never broken one. The only thing i have done is after loads of rebuilds strip the thread out of the bottom of one of the knuckles. Rick
LOL I'd agree. I've broken the shock tower once and one arm one time, but never the knuckles and the uprights.
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:56 PM   #6508
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car wont go in a straight line

Hello people

I have recently purchased a second hand Evo3 surikan, I was running it in a standard class before i then wanted to go to modified. This is were my problem lies when going down the straight with the stock motor it was fine now with the 12x2 modified it get to almost top speed (in a straight line) then it drifts off to the right I have check the batteries in the controllerand changed the tyres, to no change.
Any ideas on the problem would be great
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:05 PM   #6509
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It can be either torque steer, which you will have to get used to, or suspension is not perfectly even and/orshocks are not all bled evenly. At higher speeds, these will affect your cars balance and handling.
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:18 PM   #6510
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Quote:
Originally posted by TC3xRacer
It can be either torque steer, which you will have to get used to, or suspension is not perfectly even and/orshocks are not all bled evenly. At higher speeds, these will affect your cars balance and handling.

Thanks i will check the suspension but for torque steering i cannot get used to because the car is undrivable (turns in to much at high speed)
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