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Old 06-04-2004, 01:22 PM   #6331
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Im sorry I wrote it in a wrong way but I meant it the same way as jeffreylin.

as an A-block is used for the front block in the manual I used this as a fixed point. The A-D blocks were meant just for the rear block.
... block + rear upright was meant as overall toe in.


I wonder if anybody tried anything other than two A blocks for the front axle and an A plus any other for the rear axle?
so overall going for a wider track as used for the 415.
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Old 06-04-2004, 02:41 PM   #6332
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So

A=0
B=0.5
C=1
D=1.5

right?
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Old 06-04-2004, 03:18 PM   #6333
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I think it goes as follows

A = 0
B = 1
C = 2
D = 3

with the rear 2 degree upright you get a 4 degree toe in using the c suspension mount.
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Old 06-04-2004, 03:20 PM   #6334
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Quote:
Originally posted by stonedgti
So

A=0
B=0.5
C=1
D=1.5

right?
youre right if you just care for the angle of the suspension shafts and the front block is an A block each time.
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Old 06-04-2004, 03:23 PM   #6335
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Im sorry I wrote it in a wrong way but I meant it the same way as jeffreylin.

as an A-block is used for the front block in the manual I used this as a fixed point. The A-D blocks were meant just for the rear block.
... block + rear upright was meant as overall toe in.


I wonder if anybody tried anything other than two A blocks for the front axle and an A plus any other for the rear axle?
so overall going for a wider track as used for the 415.
on the 415.. it has D-Blocks.. so the track is much wider than the EvoIII (per instructions). but some drivers were switching to the A bridge block (for belt clearance) and using a C block up front. for toe out. ive toned my down a bit..and ive switched it to B / A on the front to see what happens.
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Old 06-04-2004, 03:23 PM   #6336
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Quote:
Originally posted by stonedgti
So

A=0
B=0.5
C=1
D=1.5

right?
Yes if you kept A block in front. But you still have to add 2 degrees of the upright so:

AA=2.0
AB=2.5
AC=3.0
AD=4.0

However, it's the difference between the blocks that matters. For example, you can get 2.5 by using A front and B aft, or B front and C aft. The B&C set up give you wider track though.
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Old 06-04-2004, 03:32 PM   #6337
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Thanks for clearing it up guys.

It gets confusing sometimes.
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Old 06-05-2004, 02:17 AM   #6338
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question does kick up or anti squat change the way that the bevel pinion and ring gear mesh. if so is it a concern?
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Old 06-05-2004, 02:24 AM   #6339
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Quote:
Originally posted by taj
question does kick up or anti squat change the way that the bevel pinion and ring gear mesh. if so is it a concern?
No, your arms are independent from your drivetrain.
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Old 06-05-2004, 06:07 AM   #6340
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can someone tell me how to do the shock oil in the shocks as when i do and you move the shock init becomes pressurrised and it is pulled out it becomes a vaccum (using 60wt oil)
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Old 06-06-2004, 01:17 AM   #6341
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When building the Tamiya shocks, I have found it easiest this way.

Fill shock
Remove air bubles with piston at top
Pull piston down (to make sure no more bubbles)
Fill to level with top of shock with piston midway to 2/3 to top
Then set the bladder on top, and press it in a little with a screwdriver.
Then add the oring or sponge to suite track
Then add the top plastic to the top
Gently set the top cap over the plastic snap
Press firmly on the plastic while screwing cap down.

This gives me shocks that last a LONG time

If the piston is in 2/3 when you assemble. The shaft moves the same from top as it does from bottom (same rebound). If you build it with the piston in middle of stroke then you have more compression then rebound.

These are my findings, but should make it easy to duplicate the builds...
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Old 06-06-2004, 09:59 PM   #6342
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Default Asphalt Rubber Set-up

Sorry if this has been posted elsewhere within this thread, but I was not able to find it . Does anybody have a good asphalt rubber set-up for the EVO III SE?

thanx
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Old 06-07-2004, 08:53 AM   #6343
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My setup

F/R
Springs: White/Blue
Oil 40/40
Droop: 4/3 (on the associated droop guage)
Shock Position: 3/3 (look @ the Evo3 setup sheet....tamiyausa.com)
Roll Center Spacers:5mm/2mm
Tire: CS-27
Front One-way

Works good...Still playing around with it a little bit

REALLY shines on a big flowing layout....Having a little trouble getting a perfect balence on the technical section but its fairly good all around

Took 3rd in a really competative stock race this weekend after starting 7th
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:46 AM   #6344
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Thanx Black Kat.

I am going to start racing on asphalt at our Chicago R/C club events with a mod motor. I'll give it a try and if I find something that works really well, I'll post it back here.
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Old 06-10-2004, 04:58 AM   #6345
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hey guys
while were on setups can u guys give me a basic concrete tight setup. car needs help. power on understeer especially.

thanks

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