Tamiya TB-Evolution III
#6226
Originally posted by markp27
............When do you go there?
............When do you go there?
#6227
Hey folks, need some suggestions regarding servo horns or servo savers.
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
#6228
Originally posted by Evoracer
Hey folks, need some suggestions regarding servo horns or servo savers.
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
Hey folks, need some suggestions regarding servo horns or servo savers.
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
#6229
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Originally posted by devil
blue sealed bearings. and how do you remove one side of a sealed bearing
blue sealed bearings. and how do you remove one side of a sealed bearing
Either lift them with a knifeblade or if they're clean degreased a piece of sticky tape can do it too.
#6230
Originally posted by Evoracer
Hey folks, need some suggestions regarding servo horns or servo savers.
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
Hey folks, need some suggestions regarding servo horns or servo savers.
Recently, my Multiplex servo broke so I'm temporarily using a metal gear Hitec.
The Tamiya servo savers are garbage. And unlike my Multiplex, the Hitec doesn't seem to like a solid servo horn. It's already stripped the plastic gears inside once.
What servo horns or servo savers are you using???? Manufacturer and part number would help. Thanks
#6231
If it´s for the EVO3 just use the mid size #201. Works perfect with the EVO and I´m using this one also. Comes with 3 adapters for different servos.
#6232
Thats what I needed !! Thanks V12 and jeffreylin. As usual...Tamiya drivers are the greatest.
#6233
Tech Regular
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#6234
can anyone tell me if the acer bearings physical spin (i mean take them out of the car and see them spining, when you spin it on your finger or something)or are they just very smooth
#6235
Funny that you mention those bearings. Yesterday, I received some Acer ceramics for my 415 (would have picked up some from speedtech but they were on holiday) and was a little disappointed. The rubber seals seem to contact both the inner and outter race and they did not have the fit and finish that was on par with the Tamiya rubber sealed bearings. I put a 5x11mm bearing on a spare axle and tried to give them a spin and they felt like bearings that were packed with grease. Smooth but not very free. I blew out whatever was inside and tried spinning them dry to see if there was an improvement but it felt just the same. I also repeated this with a 10x15mm bearings with the same results. Do these things need to be run in for them to free up? Granted, they are smooth, but it feels like they would have a lot of parasitic drag.
I think I may just use the famous Tamiya rubber sealed bearings for the upcoming race.
I think I may just use the famous Tamiya rubber sealed bearings for the upcoming race.
#6236
If you are interested in ceramic bearings I'd recommend a set from RC4Less. They sell grade 7 (Acer ones are grade 5 I believe) bearing sets for different chassis' for about $100 each depending on number of bearings included. Theses bearings are metal shielded and are too came packed with grease. But once you clean them out by soaking them in motor spray they are very free and smooth--a hugh improvement from the stock bearings or even the Tamiya rubber sealed bearings. I can now free spin my 415 drive train for a few seconds like you can do with a shaft car!
Last edited by jeffreylin; 05-12-2004 at 12:54 PM.
#6237
Jeff, isn't that because your belt tension is way loose? Last weekend when I shredded the rear belt, I took scissors and cut it off. I then spun the rear wheels for what seem like an eternity hehe. That's with the kit metal bearings. I'll stick with the Tamiya ones as I don't want to drop another bill on 16 more bearings.
#6238
I don't know Rod. The car runs fine with stock and no skipping belts etc. I tried with a one click tighter setting but the belt was so tight I had difficulty putting the drive train together. And when I finally did put it together the drivetrain was so tight I went back to my old setting (0 front and 1 rear).
#6239
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by rtypec
Funny that you mention those bearings. Yesterday, I received some Acer ceramics for my 415 (would have picked up some from speedtech but they were on holiday) and was a little disappointed. The rubber seals seem to contact both the inner and outter race and they did not have the fit and finish that was on par with the Tamiya rubber sealed bearings. I put a 5x11mm bearing on a spare axle and tried to give them a spin and they felt like bearings that were packed with grease. Smooth but not very free. I blew out whatever was inside and tried spinning them dry to see if there was an improvement but it felt just the same. I also repeated this with a 10x15mm bearings with the same results. Do these things need to be run in for them to free up? Granted, they are smooth, but it feels like they would have a lot of parasitic drag.
I think I may just use the famous Tamiya rubber sealed bearings for the upcoming race.
Funny that you mention those bearings. Yesterday, I received some Acer ceramics for my 415 (would have picked up some from speedtech but they were on holiday) and was a little disappointed. The rubber seals seem to contact both the inner and outter race and they did not have the fit and finish that was on par with the Tamiya rubber sealed bearings. I put a 5x11mm bearing on a spare axle and tried to give them a spin and they felt like bearings that were packed with grease. Smooth but not very free. I blew out whatever was inside and tried spinning them dry to see if there was an improvement but it felt just the same. I also repeated this with a 10x15mm bearings with the same results. Do these things need to be run in for them to free up? Granted, they are smooth, but it feels like they would have a lot of parasitic drag.
I think I may just use the famous Tamiya rubber sealed bearings for the upcoming race.
Yeah, I agree. The newer polyamide sealed Acer bearings are not as free as the old Acer Teflon sealer ceramic bearings. I find that I need to run them for a month for the seals to free up. It's all good after that.
#6240
Originally posted by linger
I find that I need to run them for a month for the seals to free up. It's all good after that.
I find that I need to run them for a month for the seals to free up. It's all good after that.