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Old 04-15-2004, 06:31 AM   #6046
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can someone pls post a good ashpelt set-up.
my cars near stock setup with new ally rear hubs with links in kit position and its understeering.
ive tried everything i can think of and its still understeering.
my set up.
front.
shock springs;yellow
shock oil;40w
camber link postion;middle hole.
camber linker spacers;6mm
anti roll bar;yellow
kick up;0mm
shock position on tower;middle
shock positio on wishbone; outer
camber;1.5
toe;2degrees out

rear
shock spring;yellow
shock oil;40w
camber link postion;middle
camber link spacers;0mm
anti roll bars;yellow
anti squat;0mm
shock postion on tower;3rd hole in
shock postion on wishbone;outer
camber;1.5
toe block;c block

front one way
alfa 2 body.
cs27 pre mounts like used at reedy race.
lrp traction compound.

track is medium grip with a lot of chicanes and hairpins.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-15-2004, 07:34 AM   #6047
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
can someone pls post a good ashpelt set-up.
my cars near stock setup with new ally rear hubs with links in kit position and its understeering.
ive tried everything i can think of and its still understeering.
my set up.
front.
shock springs;yellow
shock oil;40w
camber link postion;middle hole.
camber linker spacers;6mm
anti roll bar;yellow
kick up;0mm
shock position on tower;middle
shock positio on wishbone; outer
camber;1.5
toe;2degrees out

rear
shock spring;yellow
shock oil;40w
camber link postion;middle
camber link spacers;0mm
anti roll bars;yellow
anti squat;0mm
shock postion on tower;3rd hole in
shock postion on wishbone;outer
camber;1.5
toe block;c block

front one way
alfa 2 body.
cs27 pre mounts like used at reedy race.
lrp traction compound.

track is medium grip with a lot of chicanes and hairpins.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try moving the camber link spaces to 4mm and maybe harder sway bars for the front and the back do the same. I myself have found springs, sway bars and roll centres to be the biggest effect on the car.
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Old 04-15-2004, 07:39 AM   #6048
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
can someone pls post a good ashpelt set-up.
my cars near stock setup with new ally rear hubs with links in kit position and its understeering.
ive tried everything i can think of and its still understeering.
my set up.
front.
shock springs;yellow
shock oil;40w
camber link postion;middle hole.
camber linker spacers;6mm
anti roll bar;yellow
kick up;0mm
shock position on tower;middle
shock positio on wishbone; outer
camber;1.5
toe;2degrees out

rear
shock spring;yellow
shock oil;40w
camber link postion;middle
camber link spacers;0mm
anti roll bars;yellow
anti squat;0mm
shock postion on tower;3rd hole in
shock postion on wishbone;outer
camber;1.5
toe block;c block

front one way
alfa 2 body.
cs27 pre mounts like used at reedy race.
lrp traction compound.

track is medium grip with a lot of chicanes and hairpins.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
For tight tracks, I think you should try all outer most position for both front and rear shock towers. If you feel that does not give you enough rear traction, move the rear shocks one hole inside. I also would not have toe-out in front. It might make it feel more nimble turning in but pushes in the middle and on the way out.
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Old 04-15-2004, 07:41 AM   #6049
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Quote:
Originally posted by trf racer
can someone pls post a good ashpelt set-up.
my cars near stock setup with new ally rear hubs with links in kit position and its understeering.
ive tried everything i can think of and its still understeering.
Is that a Surikarn or standard ride, TR?

yea, I'm chasing a bit more steering too; the std cars seem to
be OK (ran those all year 2003) but the Surikarns seems to
plough on a bit more.

Its tarmac over here in Oz, CS27 are the most popular rubbers.
Running 60wt oil on the fronts, 40wt rear (std 3 holes).

I usually prefer 0-1deg toeout at front, minimum toe at rear (A-A 2degs). Any more at front doesn't improve turn-in, but promotes instability..?

Std car steers well using all-round yellows or sometimes blues in front.
I have a SL with all-round yellows (not very planted) and its twin
with blue/yellow (much better, but still not great).
All-yellows car is running without any centre brace, other has
the Tech T-bar.

Has been suggested to me last w/e that the 3mm chassis
prefers stiffer springing... so will try white/blue at next opportunity.

Other things on the list to try:
1) lower the roll centre at front
2) swaybar at rear (currently both ends on blue/yellow, none on all-yellow)
3) less droop at rear
4) might bring some weights, add 50g to the bumper see what that does...

An ongoing process, need more tracktime.
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:06 AM   #6050
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TRF- you didn't mention what class you're running. I also need to know what amount of droop, what shock pistons and the arm positions.

Here are a few things you need to change-

front toe- 0deg
front camber link spacers- 5mm (like kit setup)
front arms- all the way back
40wt- 3 hole
droop 1.5mm

rear toe- keep the 2deg hubs and put a B block on front of the rear and A block in back (gives you 1 deg of rear toe and sweeps arms back a little)
40wt- 3 hole
rear arms- kit position
camber link- no spacers kit position
droop 2mm


Keep the shock towers in current holes unless you need more steering then stand the REAR shock up a hole or two. If the car is too agressive for you then stand the front shock up a hole.

Check your wing on the Alpha 2.0. You probably have it cut too big. If it's cut to the larger trim line then it will puch very bad on higher speed turns. You might also try to Mazda 6 or Stratus 2.0 to get more steering.
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:37 AM   #6051
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Just used my EVO III SE for the first time in many months and wow i had bags and bags of turn-in when using the one-way. Too much in fact as i spent alittle time trying to dail it out. One thing i do is when setting up the car is to compress the shocks on one side of the car with steering lock on so i can see what camber i have when in the corners and not running in a straight line, i set my camber at 0.5 to 1.0 degrees all round.

i have used this method on others peoples cars and found them to have 6 or 7 deg caster when turning and wondering why they dont grip in a corner.
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Old 04-15-2004, 12:40 PM   #6052
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Does this car use the same diff gears as the first Evo? If so I have some that I found while cleaning up my bench, both ball dfiff and oneway gears. If anybody wants them I'll send them to you no charge. PM or email me.
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Old 04-15-2004, 04:22 PM   #6053
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hey ,

is anyone interested in th first edition Kai for an Evo 3? if so PM me as i know someone selling one in a decent condition

prefferebly UK sale only but maybe US.

thanks

Tarnj
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Old 04-15-2004, 05:40 PM   #6054
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i have a kai conversion chasis and everything for it
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Old 04-15-2004, 06:09 PM   #6055
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@trf racer use the outermost hole for shocks in front and 4 hole in rear. Remove rear swaybar and use A-A blocks in the rear to gain steering.
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Old 04-15-2004, 06:27 PM   #6056
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i never had the manuals yet. but 1 question.

question on alumn suspension mount on TBIII
A-A
B-B
C-C.

which is for front and which for rear?
been using A-A front and rear . it really have lot of steering.
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Old 04-15-2004, 06:35 PM   #6057
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These were designed originaly as toe blocks. You can use them to adjust rear toe.

The car had four A blocks, 1 B, 1 C, and 1 D. now there is a E.

Then you could change out the back rear to add more toe. For each sucsessive increase in letter you add 1 degree total rear toe, or 1/2 degree per side of toe.

You could go from 2 deg per side all the way to 4 deg per side now. OMG

You can also use them like losi, and widen the front of the front, this I believe will make the steering more agressive on turn in. (I think I remember that one right)
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Old 04-15-2004, 07:01 PM   #6058
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dsrd,

So mind telling me whats the normal setting or neutral setting for the toe f/r?>
or ur toe settings?

thanks
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Old 04-15-2004, 07:13 PM   #6059
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All A's is a starting point.

A
A

A
A

if you want more rear traction, then start adding to the rear

A
A

A
B or C or D or E

if you need more turn in add to the front

B or C or D or E
A

A
A

I like to run all a's and actually change the rear to a/c but I use the 1 degree uprights. 53472 are the stock 2 degree and the hard 1 degree are 53428, now they have the alloy upright like the yok, 53687 with the vertical ball mount.

Try them all, when you find a hole you like use the hell out of it.
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:52 PM   #6060
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Default Sway Bars

Heres a Basic tuning question. What effect does using sway bars have on these cars? Is it just to tighten up the suspension a little or what.... Thanks...
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