Originally posted by Nthegame
What mistakes do you believe they made with the evo III that might be fixed in the next generation?
Are you kidding? Do you realize how many people sold/refrained from purchasing the EVO3 because of the oneway and diff gear problems? Not to mention all the people that were deferred from considering the car because of all the poor press on drivetrain? It was horrible. The car still sold well but it was only a fraction of what would've been possible sales.
As far as the improvements, I made it clear the car isn't good for carpet. That simply proves that the car isn't rigid enough or tunable enough.
V12- I understand what you are saying about the chassis. Keep in mind you are talking about less traction conditions than we typically race on here in the states. I'm sure you and the overseas guys are good drivers and good tuners so I'm not trying to degrade you or anyone else's tuning abilities. I realize that softening the rigidity is a way of tuning an r/c car, but I don't believe it is a correct
way to tune. The TC3 is rigid enough for carpet and is still plenty tunable for lower traction conditions. It's harder
to tune for less traction, but still possible. My whole basis for this comes from full size race car tuning and in 22 years of racing I have never seen or heard of anyone removing gussets, roll cage connectors or bracing to tune a car for a slick track.
My ideas for a better car: (off the top of my head- I have more)
- fix the drivetrain even if it means 2 or 3 piece shaft.
- THICKER SHOCK TOWERS- please, my Surikarn shock towers twist like mush
- wider front shock tower- need at lest one more hole to stand the shock up
- corner braces for the upper deck like the 415
- carpet upper deck option. less holes, 3mm
- graphite tranny cases (makes the car more rigid)
- lower the hinge pins and give me anodized spacers with the same footprint as the block to raise it back up when needed
- move the hinge pin braces and front bumper back 2mm. this will essentially move chassis and most of the weight forward 2mm leaving the bumper and front body posts in the same position relative to the body. you can still move the weight back with the spacers. I don't know of anyone or never seen a setup where someone had the arms all the way forward which tells me they are too far forward. We move the front arms all the way back and then sweep them back with the hingepin blocks to get the weight forward fro carpet.
- caster blocks with different caster options!!!! GEEZ, gimme a break. Is there another car on the market that only has ONE caster block and no optional blocks?
- rear hubs like the 415 in graphite and aluminum
- optional motor mount that uses the forward spur gear adapter hole on the driveshaft and moves the motor forward the same amount. Basically a motor mount with the screw holes moved back 3.5mm or whatever distance that hole is from stock.
- make the screw holes in the aluminum servo mounts differnt distances on top and bottom so you can flip the servo mount over and move the servo forward 2mm
- optional aluminum center brace(s). Please tell me why I have to buy soemthing like that aftermarket?
- fix the swaybar mounts where the waybars at least work a LITTLE without 10 minutes of adjustments!