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Old 03-30-2004, 11:21 AM   #5941
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Default new shaft

well i've been running the new Tamiya lightweight shaft and the Jurgen one way and have yet to strip anything! These 2 pieces were well worth the money. No extra shimming needed in my case, although it seems many of you are doing so. Overall, extremely happy with the upgrades

vic
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Old 03-30-2004, 05:48 PM   #5942
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I use the gold assoc. front springs with varying rear assoc springs depending on grip available for rubber tires.

hey guys, do any of you use the novak brushless 5800 system in the evo3? what gearing are you at ? I'm curious...I have one installed in my XXX4...wondering how the evo3 might be with it.
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Old 03-30-2004, 07:45 PM   #5943
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Is anyone running the evo 3 se on foams on ashphalt...

Anyone got any set ups
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Old 03-30-2004, 10:47 PM   #5944
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hi Guys,

We got some new hop-ups in for the EVOIII including Ti-Axles, aluminum rear hubs, and light weight center shafts. Also a few new Tobee Craft hop-ups as well.

Lastly, we should be receiving the first batch of EVOIII Spools within the next few weeks.

Steve Wang
hey steve i send you an email on saturday about an order and i wanted to pay with paypal did you get it ?i am just wondering i know you guys are busy so let me know please.
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:22 PM   #5945
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help

Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
That is a terrible idea. It would weaken your bevel gear and make it wobble.
No, that's what some guys was doing in the early days.

No reports of bevel failure.
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:29 PM   #5946
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ooj
One of the reasons why the people using the Tech Shaft have very smooth and "bind-free" drivetrain is that it requires the use of an extra bearing in the front plastic upright that the shaft goes through. Using the same idea, just buy a bearing the same size as the one that goes in the motor mount, put a thin layer of CA on the edge and stick it in the plastic upright. I have done this and there is no high spot anymore when using the standard shaft and it is as free as when I used the tech shaft
well... I have 3 active cars (1's got the Tech 3-piece, 2 std shaft).

The extra 1260 bearing does reduce some shaft wobble.
Its not a big deal, tiny bit of wobble doesn't cause binding.

(Maybe just high speed vibration.)



Don't bother with superglue - too much hassle later on.

Just install the plastic bit so that the bearing enters from the back.
(if enters front the bearing will fall forwards on impact, rattle on your steering bar)

If the bearing is wobbly in the hole, put a layer of Tamiya masking
tape on the bearing before you put it in. About 1/2 circumference
should be enough to keep it stuck in there.
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:47 PM   #5947
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Default Re: Re: Re: Help

Quote:
Originally posted by devil
yes it is the bevel gear binding and it doesen't matter how many gears you put in its still there, i've also tried different shafts and still nothing.
I think the problem is the bevel gear is slightly made badly and it is of centre and i was wondering if anyone knew how to solve this
It can also be your gearcase is warped... try swapping F&R
or buying a new one and trying that, its not expensive.

The 1280 bevel gear bearing also sits very floppily in the hole.
It is able to flop up & down... which does cause notchiness.
I have wrapped 1 layer Tamiya masking tape around that too,
Now when I yank the bevel gear out, the bearing stays stuck in there.

As for bad bevel gears... just put one on a shaft then roll it along
your tabletop with the bevel hanging off the edge. Inspect it as
it rolls and you'll notice any wobbling... but I haven't found one
bad enough to reject though.

On the SL I just rebuilding last night... there is a very obvious 2mm
that the red shaft is short by. Hence Tamiya's recent "fix".

Try shimming the one-way... had to put a 0.2 shim to move it
*away* from the bevel to remove all notchiness last night.
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:53 PM   #5948
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aluma
hey guys, do any of you use the novak brushless 5800 system in the evo3? what gearing are you at ?
Runs damned good with a SS5800... the BL has enough torque to
skip belts unless run guitar-tight, so a shaft car is perfect.

Gear it like you would a stocker, somewhere between a P2K and a Monster.

Highest I've gone is 4.1:1... car clocked about 74km/h.
(sounds like a low-flying jet!!)
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:57 PM   #5949
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@ 74... caught a (gap in the) board, didn't I.

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Old 03-31-2004, 07:56 AM   #5950
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Guys

were exackly do u place the shims when u are shimming your gears away from the bevels? im useing the square gearboxs and there is no way to shime the whole diff left or right..?

I really need a pic

thanks

Tarnj
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Old 03-31-2004, 08:04 AM   #5951
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I´m also using the Square gearboxes and as these are much tighter there is not much need of shimming. I´m using a 0.2mm shim with the Jürgen oneway and no shim at all with a diff. Works very good and is very quiet too.
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:21 PM   #5952
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What's the current consensus on the Square GBs now... just 1 for front or best to have the pair?
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:24 PM   #5953
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Quote:
Originally posted by WC
What's the current consensus on the Square GBs now... just 1 for front or best to have the pair?
Just one for the front or your car will be too heavy
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:41 PM   #5954
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i disagree,

they arent heavy at all , i have 2 and lots more alloy and my car still weighs around 1430
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:53 PM   #5955
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
i disagree,

they arent heavy at all , i have 2 and lots more alloy and my car still weighs around 1430
They are a lot heavier than the plastic ones. If you do not have 2 of them your car will probably weight close to 1400. But more than just weight i don't think you need them. Even before the new longer shaft I almost never had problems with the gears in the rear.
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