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Old 03-09-2004, 05:51 PM   #5836
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The short springs come in Burgundy and grey as well. can't remember the part number.i know they exist because i have them got them from R10
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Old 03-09-2004, 05:56 PM   #5837
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Quote:
Originally posted by DZ
The short springs come in Burgundy and grey as well. can't remember the part number.i know they exist because i have them got them from R10
The purple (burgandy) springs and Grey are not the short springs. They are the same length as the regular on road springs.
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Old 03-09-2004, 06:36 PM   #5838
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don't mean to be rude but i have the short ones..
Here are the product codes
53635 TRF SHORT DAMPER SPRING(SUPER HARD SPRING:2pcs),
53636 TRF SHORT DAMPER SPRING(ULTRA HARD SPRING:2pcs),


like the other springs then come in the normal and short lenghts

Cheers Dz
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Old 03-09-2004, 06:45 PM   #5839
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Quote:
The Golds are the same as the Tamiya 4 spring yellows.
No, they are different. You can feel a difference in fact. They are also a slightly different length too.
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Old 03-09-2004, 06:47 PM   #5840
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Quote:
Originally posted by DZ
don't mean to be rude but i have the short ones..
Here are the product codes
53635 TRF SHORT DAMPER SPRING(SUPER HARD SPRING:2pcs),
53636 TRF SHORT DAMPER SPRING(ULTRA HARD SPRING:2pcs),


like the other springs then come in the normal and short lenghts

Cheers Dz
Your not being rude.

I have them as well and the package says short damper spring on it, but if you look at them they are longer than the short springs and are as long the regular on road springs.
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Old 03-09-2004, 07:16 PM   #5841
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Woops, the three "sets" were for shock oil, not the springs...

Another question, when you countersink the upperdeck, does this make the chassis stiffer?(I was thinking this because there is more surface contact with the screw, and the screw will make the upperdeck stay put a little bit more)

Also, can a person buy a full set of the stock steel berrings?

Thanks
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Old 03-09-2004, 07:53 PM   #5842
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
No, they are different. You can feel a difference in fact. They are also a slightly different length too.
Well I guess if you want to be technical the Golds were 1% heavier than the Yellows so you are right but, converting them to pounds they are the same.

My bench testing showed they are the same even taking account of the different length. I also test the springs new and have heard that different batches can reveal different results.

It is nice that Tamiya finally broke 20 pound barrier with their Grey and Purple springs.
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Old 03-09-2004, 08:33 PM   #5843
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bubblestc3
Woops, the three "sets" were for shock oil, not the springs...

Another question, when you countersink the upperdeck, does this make the chassis stiffer?(I was thinking this because there is more surface contact with the screw, and the screw will make the upperdeck stay put a little bit more)

Also, can a person buy a full set of the stock steel berrings?

Thanks
Hey bubbles, the shock oils come in packages of three 200,300,400 (53443) then there's 500,600,700 (53444)and finally 800,900,1000 (53445). They're all color coded and made with a very consistent synthetic oil. Good stuff. They're measured in metric so I don't know what their equivalent SAE rating would be (# weight)

The countersunk deck does help with stiffness a little but for the most part it's there to help prevent minor tweaks. The only catch is that you must have a bit that countersinks the right depth and diameter so that a countersunk screw sits right. Also, you need to make sure that the chassis is built perfectly flat and that ALL screw holes from the both bulkheads, motormount, center bracing, etc. line up perfectly or else you'll put a tweak into the chassis when you tighten things up. It's a chore but it can be done using shims between the gearboxes and upper deck mounts and trial and error method.

Stock metal bearings? errmmmm I'm not sure if they're available but you can always call Tamiya, or inquire with Speedtech, or check out acerracing.com

Hope this helps.

Edit: p.s. Why aren't you at Slocal? Oh snap, look at all the places I referred you to...they look like my sig haha Okay if you need batteries go to promatch!
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Old 03-09-2004, 08:45 PM   #5844
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Have anyone tried the SQUARE gear box? If so, still strip any gears?

I heard that the TB-02 shaft was longer? Is it better to put that into the EVO III?
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Old 03-09-2004, 09:48 PM   #5845
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Hey bubbles, the shock oils come in packages of three 200,300,400 (53443) then there's 500,600,700 (53444)and finally 800,900,1000 (53445). They're all color coded and made with a very consistent synthetic oil. Good stuff. They're measured in metric so I don't know what their equivalent SAE rating would be (# weight)

The countersunk deck does help with stiffness a little but for the most part it's there to help prevent minor tweaks. The only catch is that you must have a bit that countersinks the right depth and diameter so that a countersunk screw sits right. Also, you need to make sure that the chassis is built perfectly flat and that ALL screw holes from the both bulkheads, motormount, center bracing, etc. line up perfectly or else you'll put a tweak into the chassis when you tighten things up. It's a chore but it can be done using shims between the gearboxes and upper deck mounts and trial and error method.

Stock metal bearings? errmmmm I'm not sure if they're available but you can always call Tamiya, or inquire with Speedtech, or check out acerracing.com

Hope this helps.

Edit: p.s. Why aren't you at Slocal? Oh snap, look at all the places I referred you to...they look like my sig haha Okay if you need batteries go to promatch!
Hahahahaha, no SloCal tonight, that thing about waking up for school the next day came up between the mother and I, and I could not go... LOL, but acerracing is not in your sig...

Thanks for the help Rod
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Old 03-10-2004, 12:40 PM   #5846
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Got my lightweight shaft today. Maybe trying this weekend.
Do I have to change the shims with the oneway using this shaft or keeping the same shims?
What if using the Square aluminium gearbox?
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Old 03-10-2004, 12:45 PM   #5847
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
Got my lightweight shaft today. Maybe trying this weekend.
Do I have to change the shims with the oneway using this shaft or keeping the same shims?
What if using the Square aluminium gearbox?
I also use the square gearbox and Jürgen oneway. I had never shimmed my gears and with the new shaft, I have yet to have any problem with the gears.
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Old 03-10-2004, 01:11 PM   #5848
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I also use the square gearbox and Jürgen oneway. I had never shimmed my gears and with the new shaft, I have yet to have any problem with the gears.
I´m not using shims with the gears but one 0,2mm shim on the Jürgen oneway toward the rightside 1510 bearing at the moment.
So you are not using any shims?

I´m not talking about problems as I´m still using same onewaygear since using the Jürgen oneway. But I think the drivetrain will run different with the longer shaft maybe less free so you have to adjust shimming to run as before. Maybe I´m completely wrong and it works different in regard of freeness.
What do you think?
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Old 03-10-2004, 01:47 PM   #5849
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
I´m not using shims with the gears but one 0,2mm shim on the Jürgen oneway toward the rightside 1510 bearing at the moment.
So you are not using any shims?

I´m not talking about problems as I´m still using same onewaygear since using the Jürgen oneway. But I think the drivetrain will run different with the longer shaft maybe less free so you have to adjust shimming to run as before. Maybe I´m completely wrong and it works different in regard of freeness.
What do you think?
I would suggest that you try to run without the shim. I think it's freer that way. I don't think it's necessary unless you have problems.
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Old 03-10-2004, 02:28 PM   #5850
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Thank you. Will try that next weekend.
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