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Old 02-17-2004, 01:49 PM   #5626
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Quote:
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
why do you guys even bother with the evo III? Plenty of other cars that meet or exceed the performance and no severe design flaw.
the Barracuda has weak front hub carriers one small to decent hit stretches the plastic so the bottom screw comes out....it strips input gears as well...i can come up with many others
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:13 PM   #5627
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Originally posted by R/C Anonymous
the Barracuda has weak front hub carriers one small to decent hit stretches the plastic so the bottom screw comes out....it strips input gears as well...i can come up with many others
From most of the Cuda drivers that I know, they have complained about how the car pushes. And if you hit anything hard enough, the part will break, no matter what it is made of.

I am very impressed with my EVOIII, ran it yesterday for the first time(serious run, not just to set the throtle or steering trims) at SoCal, and VERY happy with how the car worked on that track!
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:18 PM   #5628
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Originally posted by Bubblestc3
From most of the Cuda drivers that I know, they have complained about how the car pushes. And if you hit anything hard enough, the part will break, no matter what it is made of.

I am very impressed with my EVOIII, ran it yesterday for the first time(serious run, not just to set the throtle or steering trims) at SoCal, and VERY happy with how the car worked on that track!
Well most cars will break these parts anyway, just seems that the evoIII is notorious for it. I upgraded to aluminum chubs and soon steering knuckles so no worries there. Everything else seems rather bulletproof.

No hating on tamiya though, just thinking out loud.
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:46 PM   #5629
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I think the EVO III is one of the most bullet proof cars out there when not running a one way. With a front diff. the car takes a beating and continues to roll on. My only breakages have been from my own haste and not following through with tightening a screw here and there.

At the track I run at I see TC3's and Losi's breaking a arms left and right. I have had some of the same collisions and (knock on wood) have not broken a single one.

The car is also easy to set up and easy to drive.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:48 PM   #5630
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Quote:
Originally posted by f1larry
I think the EVO III is one of the most bullet proof cars out there when not running a one way. With a front diff. the car takes a beating and continues to roll on. My only breakages have been from my own haste and not following through with tightening a screw here and there.

At the track I run at I see TC3's and Losi's breaking a arms left and right. I have had some of the same collisions and (knock on wood) have not broken a single one.

The car is also easy to set up and easy to drive.

Just my 2 cents.
Agreed If it weren't for the one-way gear issue it would be close to perfect.
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:09 PM   #5631
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Ok guys, need some help. I am running an Evo3 SL on carpet with a 19T. The car is pushy/loose meaing it pushes, hooks up and the rear starts to wash out, and then the car pushes again. Here is my setup:

60 Wt front oil
white springs
blue bar
outside hole shocktower and arm
-1 camber
2 red shims under the inner camber mount (I think is a total of 4mm)

Rear:
40wt oil
blue springs
2nd mounting hole from the outside on shock tower
yellow bar
no shims under the camber mount
c-suspension mount
-1 camber

The car is very good with a stock motor, but this setup is not working with the 19T. I did disconnect the rear bar, and the rear settled waaaaay down, but then the car pushed. Just for curiosities sake, I did also disconnect the front bar, but then it got oversteery again. any suggestions would be appreciated. I was thinking of keeping the setup above, but dropping the spring rate all around to get more mechanical grip.
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:21 PM   #5632
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
Ok guys, need some help. I am running an Evo3 SL on carpet with a 19T. The car is pushy/loose meaing it pushes, hooks up and the rear starts to wash out, and then the car pushes again. Here is my setup:

The car is very good with a stock motor, but this setup is not working with the 19T. I did disconnect the rear bar, and the rear settled waaaaay down, but then the car pushed. Just for curiosities sake, I did also disconnect the front bar, but then it got oversteery again. any suggestions would be appreciated. I was thinking of keeping the setup above, but dropping the spring rate all around to get more mechanical grip.
Try my carpet setup:

Front:
Camber: -1deg
Toe: 0deg
Droop: 2mm
Oil: 60wt
Spring: White
Piston: 3-hole
Upper link spacer: 6mm
Upper shock mounting hole: middle
Stabilizer: yellow
Tires: Sorex 28R

Rear:
Camber: -1deg
Toe: 3deg in
Droop: 3mm
Oil: 50wt
Spring: Blue
Piston: 3-hole
Upper link spacer: 2mm
Upper shock mounting hole: middle
Stabilizer: none
Tires: Sorex 24R
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:27 PM   #5633
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gotta use tamiya tires
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:30 PM   #5634
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Gary, try DJ's setup for last year's Novak race at trackside. People said his car was dialed last year.

To convert the setup using the EvoS inner camber link positions, try Front: inner 6 or was it 7mm spacers (can't remember) and Rear: middle with ~3mm spacers.
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:33 PM   #5635
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2.5 vs 3 mm chassis though?
big difference? and the novak race used cs27s, and the tamiya tires tend to load up with traction compound more in a run then the takeoffs
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Old 02-18-2004, 07:48 AM   #5636
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary

60 Wt front oil
white springs
blue bar
outside hole shocktower and arm
-1 camber
2 red shims under the inner camber mount (I think is a total of 4mm)

Rear:
40wt oil
blue springs
2nd mounting hole from the outside on shock tower
yellow bar
no shims under the camber mount
c-suspension mount
-1 camber
were you using the 2 or 3 hole shock pistons? that setup is pretty close to what i ran up there, but with the 2 holes, and 400/500 oil per Jun's setup sheet. i think i had about 4mm under the rear camber link, tho. i ran without bars, and white/yellow springs. good luck at the TCS! wish i could have made it back up there, just too soon since Novak!
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Old 02-18-2004, 09:17 AM   #5637
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I'm using 2 hole front and rear
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Old 02-18-2004, 09:43 PM   #5638
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
Ok guys, need some help. I am running an Evo3 SL on carpet with a 19T. The car is pushy/loose meaing it pushes, hooks up and the rear starts to wash out, and then the car pushes again. Here is my setup:

60 Wt front oil
white springs
blue bar
outside hole shocktower and arm
-1 camber
2 red shims under the inner camber mount (I think is a total of 4mm)

Rear:
40wt oil
blue springs
2nd mounting hole from the outside on shock tower
yellow bar
no shims under the camber mount
c-suspension mount
-1 camber

The car is very good with a stock motor, but this setup is not working with the 19T. I did disconnect the rear bar, and the rear settled waaaaay down, but then the car pushed. Just for curiosities sake, I did also disconnect the front bar, but then it got oversteery again. any suggestions would be appreciated. I was thinking of keeping the setup above, but dropping the spring rate all around to get more mechanical grip.
Gary,

I was having the same exact problem with my EVO tonight as well. the back end was all over the place. One change I made but did not try yet was moving thr rear shock in (the inner hole) on the A Arm. I was told this should take away alot of steering. Sunday morning should be interesting I still have alot of work to do to get the car set.
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Old 02-19-2004, 06:35 AM   #5639
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Hi, I still got no answer in the German Tamiya Euro Cup Forum, if the Mod from BigDog is considered TEC legal. Now I ordered all the parts needed to built a front ball diff (2x reinforced diff joints, TA04 ball diff and F201 diff plates) .

Is there also a problem with the gears stripping when using a ball diff instead of the original one-way? Anything else I have to consider when using a ball diff (setup etc.)?

Since my F201 has two ball diffs, I hope I get along with 2 ball diffs in the Evo3 as well.

The ball diff should also be significantly lighter than the one way, isn't it?

Thanx

Hemi
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Old 02-19-2004, 06:47 AM   #5640
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Quote:
Originally posted by hemi426
Hi, I still got no answer in the German Tamiya Euro Cup Forum, if the Mod from BigDog is considered TEC legal. Now I ordered all the parts needed to built a front ball diff (2x reinforced diff joints, TA04 ball diff and F201 diff plates) .

Is there also a problem with the gears stripping when using a ball diff instead of the original one-way? Anything else I have to consider when using a ball diff (setup etc.)?

Since my F201 has two ball diffs, I hope I get along with 2 ball diffs in the Evo3 as well.

The ball diff should also be significantly lighter than the one way, isn't it?

Thanx

Hemi
I have had some pretty bad front end hits and there is not a hint of striping with the gear on the front diff.

You might also want to get ball bearings for the front diff. I am not sure the size but it is part #53030
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