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Old 12-22-2003, 04:08 AM   #5221
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talking about those cells..

what is the best way to hold 3300s in your chassis? Is it glass fibre tape? what other ways are their?
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Old 12-22-2003, 04:25 AM   #5222
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Originally posted by Evo_Uk
talking about those cells..

what is the best way to hold 3300s in your chassis? Is it glass fibre tape? what other ways are their?
I tape them in, it seems far better than the standard battery holder. Rick
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:31 AM   #5223
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Originally posted by Bubblestc3
Hey Jason, do you think that the Tamiya Track will be crowded this weekend? Or, will we be able to even go there to practice? Are you going to go if it is open, or do you have stuff to do? "ut o"?
Hey bubbles, merry christmas. Yeah, the Tamiya Track will be open this weekend.
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:42 AM   #5224
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Default Surikarn Diff (the white one)

Saw something kind of stange this weekend. There were a number of Evo 3's running unlimited burshless class on carpet and each of them melted their new Surikarn diff's. On guy melted 2 of them, on of which was completely fused together (might make a great spool).

Anyway, each of these guys are good to expert builders and racers (regular class winners) This is not a case in which someone new to the hobby cranked down too hard on the diff during assembly.

I have one of these, but have only used it in a stock class on carpet without any problems.

Is anyone else out there seeing this in a modified class while racing on carpet????
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Old 12-22-2003, 09:14 AM   #5225
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Rugrat I have seen it happen at all skill levels the problem is the diff tension for carpet. To keep from slipping you have to run them very tight but also have to watch not putting too much on as the inner barrel/bearing support will go solid and gring into each other helping to fuse the 2 parts.

Hey Rod any word on that back ordered 49xxx number I have been waiting for Fred to ship mine out also
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Old 12-22-2003, 09:22 AM   #5226
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
talking about those cells..

what is the best way to hold 3300s in your chassis? Is it glass fibre tape? what other ways are their?
I donīt like the tape method. Iīm using the original battery holder and I never lost a battery. You have to cut away some of the plastic so the battery brace sits lower and everything is fine.
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Old 12-22-2003, 09:27 AM   #5227
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Difuser if exactly correct Rugrat. The type of material doesn't matter very much. The diffs must be very tight and I would imagine with the torque of a brushless they must be set almost perfect. Jason C runs a brushless in his EVO3 maybe he can comment.

Tarnjit- the brand doesn't much matter, but the new cells will make a ton of difference. Also check for the small things like bent hinge pins (roll them on a perfectly clean glass surface) and shock shafts. REbuild the shocks if you haven't, etc etc. I find when helping my mates (hehe) at the track when their performance drops they have usually failed to maintenance something on the cars- even the anal guys often overlook things. This is the reason why peopl buy a new car and think it is waaaay faster than their previous car, well it should be, it's all new!! What they fail to realize is that often a well used car that is maintained well is faster than a new one because it's more free and the clearances are opened up a little.
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Old 12-22-2003, 10:43 AM   #5228
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Quote:
Originally posted by Difuser
Rugrat I have seen it happen at all skill levels the problem is the diff tension for carpet. To keep from slipping you have to run them very tight but also have to watch not putting too much on as the inner barrel/bearing support will go solid and gring into each other helping to fuse the 2 parts.

Hey Rod any word on that back ordered 49xxx number I have been waiting for Fred to ship mine out also
When i built my S evo 3 i found i cud not get the diffs that tight as the T pieces ears hit the end of the notches in the outdrive. In the end i fitted 2 of tamiyas small .3 shims on to the spring then fitted the T piece. This means i can get a very wide range of diff tensionv and i have never had any problems with it. Rick
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Old 12-22-2003, 11:59 AM   #5229
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Default Re: Surikarn Diff (the white one)

Quote:
Originally posted by Rugrat
Saw something kind of stange this weekend. There were a number of Evo 3's running unlimited burshless class on carpet and each of them melted their new Surikarn diff's. On guy melted 2 of them, on of which was completely fused together (might make a great spool).

Anyway, each of these guys are good to expert builders and racers (regular class winners) This is not a case in which someone new to the hobby cranked down too hard on the diff during assembly.

I have one of these, but have only used it in a stock class on carpet without any problems.

Is anyone else out there seeing this in a modified class while racing on carpet????
Rugrat,

I've been trying to deal with this problem the last 2 and a half months. I run mod carpet (high bite) on foams. The diff rings heat up and melt into the outdrives. One thing that causes this is diffing, when the car goes into a turn and the rear inside tire lifts off the ground and all the power goes to that tire. The white outdrives are less likely to melt, opposed to the black ones. If they are melting them even with not diffing...

few ways to combat this:

like the others said make sure diff is tight/locked, but still spins freely in opposite directions. Sand the diff rings to ensure no slippage.

run thicker diff lube

put diff lube between the rings and outdrives

also, I dremeled the inside part of the gear. I thought that the center part of the outdrive (the semi-circle that holds the rings in place) may be making contact (rubbing) with the gear. Just dremel a small area on the gear where those parts line up....or, find some way to make the diff rings stand prouder to ensure that part (semi-circle) doesn't touch the gear.

I've been doing all these things, and haven't melted a diff in 24 runs. Before I did these things, I was melting them every other run.

The Evo III S. is a great car on carpet, tell them not to give up. If they need a great carpet setup on high bite carpet on foams...let me know, I have one.

Good Luck
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Old 12-22-2003, 11:59 AM   #5230
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Default Melting Diffs

Regarding the diffs melting, I ran brushless on Sunday, didn't quite melt mine yet. However, when dissassembling my diff to find out why the diff action was getting tighter the more I ran it, came accross minor shavings. It looks as if the the nipple on the out drive in which the bearing slides over was grinding away. This causes the diff to get tighter, not good. Anyone know how to solve this for a carpet mod racer????? The diffs are expensive
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Old 12-22-2003, 12:03 PM   #5231
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E.J. good thoughts!!
I must have posted the same time you did. saw your comments after the fact!

I'm running rubber on carpet, any setup suggestions?
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Old 12-22-2003, 12:54 PM   #5232
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as big dog has said i do run a BL in one of my evo III's ( standerd not and evo's) i have not had any problems what so ever with the diff's melting, i do run my diff a little on the loose side, after a diff rebuild i break it in by runing the car at 3 volts for one min and then holding each tire seperatly for about 30 sec. Then make the final adjustment by placing one tire on the work bench and holding the spur gear loosent the diff until you can just bearly turn the tire not on the work bench, ( just like in the x-ray setup guide.)

Were they melting the front or rear Diff. ??????????/
i always run a one-way.
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Old 12-22-2003, 01:00 PM   #5233
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Default Diff melting

Although I don't have an Evo 3, I had the same pboblem with my 414M outdrives. The black plastic part is the weak part and I was expecting a monoblock part to be better...

My solutions for this on the 414 are :

- make sure you put the ring correctly. Indeed, on the 414 there is one face that have a small fillet. This edge MUST be on the balls side,

- Glue the ring to the black plastic part of the outdrive (make sure there is no glue where the balls are) and NEVER try to take the ring out. If you clean the diff, clean them together.and when you change the outdrive change the ring aswell,

- Use ae grease with the RED inscriptions. I found it to be very sticky once hot and allows to run a very free diff. Less pressure = less heating, and less heating = lasts longer.

I works quite well for me and my 414, although the black part is real shit, I manage to keep them for months, and I run mod on carpet.
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Old 12-22-2003, 01:10 PM   #5234
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Post Bid Dog's Gear fix

I have been running Big dogs Gear Fix now for Two Weeks. in both my MOD and Bl evo III, i have yet to strip any front gears, it is actually a very simple mod, you basicly pin the front input gear to the shaft and place a little shim between the bearing and the tranny case. before i did the mod, i was always gentle on the throttle coming out of a corner, with this mod in conjunction with propper shimming and the penquin Rc backing place i have been able to gun it coming out of a corner and not have to worie about the gear striping.

Jason sorry it took me soo long to post this in the forums.. .
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Old 12-22-2003, 01:24 PM   #5235
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Default Re: Bid Dog's Gear fix

Quote:
Originally posted by JasonC
I have been running Big dogs Gear Fix now for Two Weeks. in both my MOD and Bl evo III, i have yet to strip any front gears, it is actually a very simple mod, you basicly pin the front input gear to the shaft and place a little shim between the bearing and the tranny case. before i did the mod, i was always gentle on the throttle coming out of a corner, with this mod in conjunction with propper shimming and the penquin Rc backing place i have been able to gun it coming out of a corner and not have to worie about the gear striping.

Jason sorry it took me soo long to post this in the forums.. .
Pictures?
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