racer

how often does Tamiya release new versions of the TB Evo?

is it every year around Christmas time? can't wait to see the Evo IX.

Pirvan

Hi Coop,

Thanks for the reply. My only concern now is that on the finals, the track temp would approximately be in the range of 58-62degreeC and ambient temp 30-33dC, thus the A's are definately out of the picture, but when i tried B2s today on a simulated track condition, the B2 had nowhere near the kind of grip that is satisfactory, whereas the As were pretty hooked up but faded quickly and wear rate was quite high. *sigh*...... i guess it would be pure guesswork from now on. Thanks anyway Coop!

JEff

Evo_Uk

cheers Rick,

At the moment my car is nearly stock, fully loaded weighs about 1440, should be about 1450 soon with some added alimiunm im putting on later.

How about you guys?

how much did yours weigh with the 3 peice prop shaft rick, would you concider selling it... or giveing it me for free

Anyidea what ish is useing Rick? 414m2 or evo3 S, my friend went to meet him to get a belt off him not long ago , he told me he is useing a surikarn now and it spins for ever!!! How is his drive train, any idea?

cheers

Tarnjit

gcooper

Jeff,

As are a good tire if you can get them to last. At 58-62C I don't think you can get them to last even if you drill 4 to 6, 3or4mm holes in the rims. That would help cool them as well as a little bit of airgap. How will they spec the tires are Bs out of the picture? I guess that would be my only concern because what would stop anybody from showing up with Bs which is far superior to As and B2s under the conditions you described.

B2s are a little different of an animal with a thicker carcass. I have ran with med-soft inserts in the front and softs in the rear and the car has seemed to hookup well. You might end up with softer springs in the front vs the back unless the car balances for you then use the same spring. I usually run the heavy swaybar in the front and none in the rear.

Coop

Pirvan

Hi Coop,

Hmmm, i dun think Bs are out of the picture just that no one here seems to pay much attention to it, thats why i haven't given it a thought (new to tamiya tires). Maybe i should ask ard about teh Bs.

The setup you mentioned is very similair to mine, blues all ard with yelow sway in the front, may i know what was the ambient temp like with that setup on the B2?

Thanks
Jeff

gcooper

Jeff

One place to find Bs is on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=44022

Another is rainbowten.

When I ran the B2s under conditions you described I might have ran soft all around in morning with a 27C track temp.

At around noon I might run Med soft all around for about 47C track temp.

Later in the afternoon it could get blistering hot at 60C and I would probably would run the Med-soft front & Soft rear. At 60C you drop off the chart of where the tires start to over heat. With 60C temps I would drill 4 holes 4mm each to allow the tires to cool.

On the B2 packaging they do show a chart. I don't know if you got them yet. They start coming to life at around 17C and fall off at around 43C. B2s seem to reach their peak platau grip at 22C-38C for their best operating conditions.

"A's" were shown on the same chart at coming in at 4c and disappearing at around 36c. They peak like the B2s at the same grip level around 13c-19c for their best operation conditions.

"B's" supposedly have less grip. According to the chart they share the same grip as "A's" if they were running at 25C, which is lesser grip than the 13c-19c range. The grip level for "B's" is the same from 25C to 40C.

These 3 examples are according to Tamiya R&D on their packaging.

At many races the Bs prove to be superior. I think the main reason is they have a thinner rubber to the B2s and can flex/grip better. The key with the tires is not to over heat them. If you do you blister them and would have to wear off the blisters before they become usefull again or use them for practice. Some guys junk them I usually bring them back to a useful life.

Coop

Pirvan

Whoa!...thanks a bunch Coop, you have been a wealth of information. I'll see what I can come up with and will PM you with the results. Thanks again!!

Regards
Jeff

PizzaDude

Devil,

sorry for the late reply.
Switch the springs use the red (softes) in the rear and the yellow upfront.
Or maybe better even, yellow R and Bleu upfront.

Get a good body!
Either a protoform stratus, or if you stick with Tamiya, The skyline, or Ferrari 360.
Inserts seem Ok.
Maybe when really cold, you could use D20 Pits tires!

Good luck.

PizzaDude

TRF sorry for the late reply.
If you're looking for more overall grip, onnthe surface you described, well, you're about to the max. Good setup allready.
My comments and few things to try?!

Good body for overall grip.
With those conditions I hope you run the Pits D20 threadeds.
As it is the best for cold&wet.

Only thing you could try is to use even thinner shock oil, or use the large pistons in the shocks. Really differs from track to track imo.
I personnally, sometimes try to go 1 bit hrder on the springs. This may sound strange, but sometimes works out really well.

Good luck, let us know how all works out.

trf racer

thanks.
for them conditions it is pretty maxed out but i played with roll centres and got a tiny bit more grip.
i wanted a good wet weather setup and it seems to b good.
this car is blindingly fast!
with excellent stabillity.
can anyone tell me wot handling differences the 0.5mm and 1mm wheel shims will make.
wider track more stability with less grip
narrower track more grip less stability?
is this correct?
thanks

Rick Draper

Sorry i have no idea what ishy is running now, the last time we spoke he was using a evo 3 with some of the S hopups on it but not all of them so i presume this is what he is still using.

The 3 piece shaft aint for sale sorry.

I have just brought myself a yokomo SD so it looks like my evo 3 S will become a shelf car from now on till the Evo 4 comes out.

Rick

trf racer

r u selling ur evo3?
how did u get the 3 piece prop?

Rick Draper

Got the 3 piece prop from Rainbow10, Sorry the car aint for sale either.

Rick

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

TRF the wider the track the more stability and grip but it can be at the expense of agility, the car might start to feel a touch lazy. This is the only way to get the car to a full 190mm

Devil, I would also raise the front camber link to the upper inner position.
Where on the rear hub are you running the camber link also? I run in the lower outer hole.
Where is your wheelbase at? In the rear/front it will also make a difference on how the car reacts.
For the front run the arms all the way back. For the rear stock is 2mm behind the rear arm, try moving the arm forward to 4-6mm backspacing this shortens the wheelbase but also puts more static weight over the rear axle and aids rear traction.

Dan

gcooper

Not a problem good luck at testing and the race!

Coop