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Old 10-21-2003, 01:32 PM   #4486
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Just counted the teeth on both gears.Its 2.6 not 2.66 so you may have to recalculate if you already havent.
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Old 10-21-2003, 01:43 PM   #4487
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He may have been mistaken from when we were discussing using the TC3 gears because if you use the TC3 oneway gear you get 2.66.
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Old 10-21-2003, 03:22 PM   #4488
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Quote:
Originally posted by racenut123
Just counted the teeth on both gears.Its 2.6 not 2.66 so you may have to recalculate if you already havent.
no your right 2.6 it is, ive always worked of 2.6 aswell, but someone (to remain namless lol) convinced me otherwise.
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Old 10-21-2003, 06:02 PM   #4489
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You guys scared me....
I thought after seeing BK's post I was undegearing for my track.
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Old 10-21-2003, 11:08 PM   #4490
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Does this sound correct?

2.598
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Old 10-22-2003, 04:54 AM   #4491
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Default Motor Screws

Anyone have any tips on how to get to those motor screws. It's seems really hard to get to the screws and tighten them. Also makes setting the gear mesh more difficult.
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Old 10-22-2003, 06:15 AM   #4492
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Quote:
Originally posted by savio7
Anyone have any tips on how to get to those motor screws. It's seems really hard to get to the screws and tighten them. Also makes setting the gear mesh more difficult.
Get a good ball driver - makes working the motor screws easy as pie!

The Hudy 2540 Allen Wrench + Ball Repl. Tip 2.5 x 120 mm is a good choice.
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Old 10-22-2003, 07:47 AM   #4493
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Quote:
Get a good ball driver - makes working the motor screws easy as pie!
Thanks but my problem is that the lower suspension arm and the upper links seem to get in the way and it's an awkard anble to get to the motor screws. Will the Hudy tool really resolve this?
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:00 AM   #4494
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i use the red TRF tool set ( ima show off ) but with that the motor screw driver you can skrew at an angle.

try popping out the suspension then do it or squeez the suspension, should help get to it easier

Tarnjit
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:42 AM   #4495
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Rick ,

coudl you please write a review or post your thoughts on the tech raceing prop shaft please, is it worth the investment?

Thanks
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:48 AM   #4496
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Default Motor mount screws.

Ball driver will let you get at it very easily.Taking off the suspension is a horrible waste of time.Compressing it to gain access is a very good idea.Just buy a ball driver.
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Old 10-22-2003, 09:10 AM   #4497
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Quote:
Ball driver will let you get at it very easily.Taking off the suspension is a horrible waste of time.Compressing it to gain access is a very good idea.Just buy a ball driver.
Thanks will try it. It just seemed really hard to get to the mtr screws and was a real pain with the allen wrench. Is there any specific brand that I should get?
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Old 10-22-2003, 10:33 AM   #4498
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evo_Uk
Rick ,

coudl you please write a review or post your thoughts on the tech raceing prop shaft please, is it worth the investment?

Thanks
No idea what its like in use, i fitted it to my evo 3 looked at it to check the fit and pulled it off again as the whole lot is far to heavy. Rick
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Old 10-22-2003, 10:42 AM   #4499
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Hudy........Or a Thorp by MIP. Man its so nice to have one so its simple and easy to get at te screws at almost any angle.
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Old 10-22-2003, 11:17 AM   #4500
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pirvan
Hi Guys, have a Tamiya Sponsored race coming up. But after messing ard with setup today, i noticed Sorex 36R(Hard insert) on the rear and Sorex 32R (medium insert) on the front provided the best combination. I was wondering if anyone has any advise on how to 'relate' this to Tamiya Type A or B2 tyres? Cos Tamiya is the only tyres we can use.

Thanks
Jeff
Jeff,

The Tamiya As are around a 27 and I am not sure what the B2s are? Well any way As don't really like higher temps. Usually 24C is about it. They tend to get greasy in hotter temps. B2s are a thicker carcas and tend to like hotter temps. I would not mix tire types due to As, Bs and B2s come in at different temps. Play with tire inserts front and back to get the desired balance.

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