Tamiya TB-Evolution III
10-16-2003, 06:59 PM
#4427
Tech Initiate
Just bought my evo III this week, I normally run a xxx-s g+ so I reaaly would appreaciate some input on a good sarting point for an indoor asphault track and we run foam tires on it like purple fronts and tan rears or tan fronts with majenta rears, I have the one -way in it now and the yellow sway bars so I just need a littel guidence on some decent set-ups for the car, I allready balanced the car on the scales with the lead so it just needs a good set-up.(good starting point) car feels good from where I have it but it is 3-4 tenths off my losi lap times from some unstability in the turns do to a squirmy feel from the soft set-up out of the box, suggestions are welcome.
Thanks Kash $
Thanks Kash $
10-16-2003, 07:05 PM
#4428
Originally posted by Difuser
Coop between the pinion and bearing is correct yes.
For the ring you shim between the bearing and diff outdrive to center or move side to side ring=diff gear/ring gear.
It is a balance of which place needs to be shimmed in the box as before you get a feel for which shim needs to be placed where.
Coop between the pinion and bearing is correct yes.
For the ring you shim between the bearing and diff outdrive to center or move side to side ring=diff gear/ring gear.
It is a balance of which place needs to be shimmed in the box as before you get a feel for which shim needs to be placed where.
What side do you find you shim the most or is it a mix of both. Since you cannot look inside the gearbox with the gears what kind of feel should I be looking for.
Coop
10-16-2003, 07:35 PM
#4429
Originally posted by Kash
Just bought my evo III this week, I normally run a xxx-s g+ so I reaaly would appreaciate some input on a good sarting point for an indoor asphault track and we run foam tires on it like purple fronts and tan rears or tan fronts with majenta rears, I have the one -way in it now and the yellow sway bars so I just need a littel guidence on some decent set-ups for the car, I allready balanced the car on the scales with the lead so it just needs a good set-up.(good starting point) car feels good from where I have it but it is 3-4 tenths off my losi lap times from some unstability in the turns do to a squirmy feel from the soft set-up out of the box, suggestions are welcome.
Thanks Kash $
Just bought my evo III this week, I normally run a xxx-s g+ so I reaaly would appreaciate some input on a good sarting point for an indoor asphault track and we run foam tires on it like purple fronts and tan rears or tan fronts with majenta rears, I have the one -way in it now and the yellow sway bars so I just need a littel guidence on some decent set-ups for the car, I allready balanced the car on the scales with the lead so it just needs a good set-up.(good starting point) car feels good from where I have it but it is 3-4 tenths off my losi lap times from some unstability in the turns do to a squirmy feel from the soft set-up out of the box, suggestions are welcome.
Thanks Kash $
Basically it's blue springs, 50wt oil. Prolly needs the yellow swaybars
10-16-2003, 07:49 PM
#4430
Tech Initiate
blue springs all the way around or in the rear and whites up front, and does the oil retain stock oil pistons from kit or drilled out, if you got the mm on spacers inside your shocks that would be helpful (running 61mm-59mm foams for asphault) good spacer set up can give me a better overall droop to start with so I don't have to use those droop srcews.
thanks Kash $
thanks Kash $
10-16-2003, 09:08 PM
#4431
Hold the shaft (no jokes here guys) and rotate the diff back and forth try to feel the "lash" and tighten up by shimming. The noise also increases quite a bit when even a hair tight.
The diff is most of it and you might find to remove the side to side play you need to put shims on both sides of the diff I think my front box has .1 on the battery side with .4 on the other and .2 on the pinion.
The diff is most of it and you might find to remove the side to side play you need to put shims on both sides of the diff I think my front box has .1 on the battery side with .4 on the other and .2 on the pinion.
10-16-2003, 10:20 PM
#4432
Tech Regular
Originally posted by Difuser
Hold the shaft (no jokes here guys) and rotate the diff back and forth try to feel the "lash" and tighten up by shimming. The noise also increases quite a bit when even a hair tight.
The diff is most of it and you might find to remove the side to side play you need to put shims on both sides of the diff I think my front box has .1 on the battery side with .4 on the other and .2 on the pinion.
Hold the shaft (no jokes here guys) and rotate the diff back and forth try to feel the "lash" and tighten up by shimming. The noise also increases quite a bit when even a hair tight.
The diff is most of it and you might find to remove the side to side play you need to put shims on both sides of the diff I think my front box has .1 on the battery side with .4 on the other and .2 on the pinion.
Wouldn't shimming the pinion allow for less of the shaft to mate with the pinion, possibly causing the pinion to strip inside?
10-17-2003, 02:12 AM
#4433
Are there any photos of the 3 piece drive shaft anywhere please?
10-17-2003, 07:25 AM
#4434
Swervos
Hey Guys, FYI and incase you haven't seen it yet. You can buy two Futaba S9550 servos for your cars at Tower for $155. Incase you don't know what servo this is, it's the low profile one that most of us use. Good deal if you ask me as they sometimes cost up to $120 at your lhs. I just wanted to share this with you as I've ordered mine for the Japan trip (not planning on running servo savers hehe...well except for the $77.50 kind) 
Tower Hobbies Futaba S9550 Servo
Tower Hobbies Futaba S9550 Servo
10-17-2003, 08:36 AM
#4435
rtypec, don't forget the $15 coupon on orders of $150 or more. Free shipping too if you are a member. 
10-17-2003, 08:35 PM
#4438
the problem is most likely the drive shaft itself is rounded on its edge at the end.Even if it ever so slightly rounded,you need to replace it.This is the usual cause of stripped pinions.After you replace it,it would be wise to properly shim your tranny.I havent had a problem since.
10-17-2003, 08:38 PM
#4439
Thank you for that
not so much stripped though it's just that the pinion gear comes off the shaft at an angle and locks the front end up.
It only does it indoors on carpet with foams... I guess more traction? and more stress?
Also I am running the Kai chassis.. if the holes were out even just by a thou or 2 would this cause the problem?
not so much stripped though it's just that the pinion gear comes off the shaft at an angle and locks the front end up.
It only does it indoors on carpet with foams... I guess more traction? and more stress?
Also I am running the Kai chassis.. if the holes were out even just by a thou or 2 would this cause the problem?
10-18-2003, 02:19 AM
#4440
Tech Adept
Originally posted by racenut123
the problem is most likely the drive shaft itself is rounded on its edge at the end.Even if it ever so slightly rounded,you need to replace it.This is the usual cause of stripped pinions.After you replace it,it would be wise to properly shim your tranny.I havent had a problem since.
the problem is most likely the drive shaft itself is rounded on its edge at the end.Even if it ever so slightly rounded,you need to replace it.This is the usual cause of stripped pinions.After you replace it,it would be wise to properly shim your tranny.I havent had a problem since.
Where exactly do you shim yours? And how much?
Thanks
SSL